1972 F250 4x4, 78 d60/d60, 3.55, np205, 200hp 4bt nv4500
Joined
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180 Posts
I suppose it’s time for update. Visited the machine shop 50 miles away. Block magnafluxed, .020 over not honed yet but was told cylinders would be 4.036 honed off the top of his head. Middle range of the specification so that it would not run tight. Knowing that spec and doing the chamfer strokes my confidence level!
He took the valves out noted good continuous lap on each, was impressed with Promaxx head quality. On closer inspection the head came with white stripe larger springs exhaust. Any need to change the intakes to the white stripe springs?
He jokingly told me to ‘read less’ as I humbly am particular with sticking to specs on this going through. Seems like consensus Of non-forums /reading folks is to ‘run it!’ and not worry about it! Anyone else have a similar experience?
New pin bushings/pistons/bearings/rod bolts all from McBee. Subcontracted balancer said 4 cyl cranks don’t benefit but I read others here have benefitted from rotating assy balancing. So, I’m persisting and if it doesn’t need much or any at least it would be peace of mind.
Sorry no painted engine porn pix just a boring flywheel:
Dodge flywheel #3920378 with the nipple and crappy roller bearing. I know there’s sold a stouter sealed roller bearing that needs flywheel nipple to be machined to accept bearing, which would cause bearing to have to recess further into the engine side of the flywheel/affect input shaft. I’ve read machine an adapter then bearing into the adapter. Anyone have links to this or a tip or should I just buy the new flywheel with bearing. Even new FW not sure if the bearing is at the right distance.
My apologize if this has been answered, I’m not finding it.
I figure I went through the trans well for maybe 150,000mi and I’ll put a decent clutch in for the same, the first to go out would be the chinsy FW roller bearing getting dry.
Cleaning/painting up other parts and doing my mandatory forum/factory manual reading/cross referencing. I realize you all are giving of your own time/expertise with no return. I will try to figure out a way to buy everyone a virtual beer. Thank you!
He took the valves out noted good continuous lap on each, was impressed with Promaxx head quality. On closer inspection the head came with white stripe larger springs exhaust. Any need to change the intakes to the white stripe springs?
He jokingly told me to ‘read less’ as I humbly am particular with sticking to specs on this going through. Seems like consensus Of non-forums /reading folks is to ‘run it!’ and not worry about it! Anyone else have a similar experience?
New pin bushings/pistons/bearings/rod bolts all from McBee. Subcontracted balancer said 4 cyl cranks don’t benefit but I read others here have benefitted from rotating assy balancing. So, I’m persisting and if it doesn’t need much or any at least it would be peace of mind.
Sorry no painted engine porn pix just a boring flywheel:
Dodge flywheel #3920378 with the nipple and crappy roller bearing. I know there’s sold a stouter sealed roller bearing that needs flywheel nipple to be machined to accept bearing, which would cause bearing to have to recess further into the engine side of the flywheel/affect input shaft. I’ve read machine an adapter then bearing into the adapter. Anyone have links to this or a tip or should I just buy the new flywheel with bearing. Even new FW not sure if the bearing is at the right distance.
My apologize if this has been answered, I’m not finding it.
I figure I went through the trans well for maybe 150,000mi and I’ll put a decent clutch in for the same, the first to go out would be the chinsy FW roller bearing getting dry.
Cleaning/painting up other parts and doing my mandatory forum/factory manual reading/cross referencing. I realize you all are giving of your own time/expertise with no return. I will try to figure out a way to buy everyone a virtual beer. Thank you!