72 F250 4x4 4bt

Wanted to make sure in cab tank was vented properly so ran a 5/16” fuel line up and down the door pillar then out the firewall with a grommet and bracket to hold the check valve vent. There is a speedway parts counter here in town and I’ve been able to quickly find stuff there even though they sell mostly gas stuff.


Vent is supposed to be higher than the filler opening.


Put seats in, filled transmission, rough ran boost and pyro lines, exhaust brake vent line ran to Incab position. Made down pipe baffles to keep heat down around passenger side.

Want to start fitting the 7.3 psd intercooler on the inside of core support, then radiator. Seems to be ‘room for days’ and minimal modifications seem to be needed. Thought I was going to need to notch the IC or inner fenders.

enjoyed doing that tank venting because it took about an hour and a half and was an EZ PROJECT.

Got the 4 brackets made for the IC. Holy cow that was a lot of work.

I know most guys put the IC In front of core support but still have to fit condenser, and there is now room for days between rad and fan.



DR side IC and radiator mount ‘high five’. If there is a hood clearance issue, there is space on both pieces to make a different mount.

PA side a lot easier!!!

‘High-five’ view. Tried to get IC as low as possible but wanted to leave as much metal as possible in the core support bolt area.


Had to modifie core support a lot to move IC as far forward.

Heavy sandwich of metal down at the bottom of the core support provides lower bolt mount point

bracket work fab done flat on the bench, in the truck yeah right!

CAD design

Lower mount, IC, and clearanced radiator clears steering box 3/8” all around

Where can I find this in 4”? I didn’t know if these are common items.

ebay photo but they’re wanting $170 for it.

Depending on the style, air cleaners usually flow from the outside to the center area. That's usually for the circular or cone type. The flat style like the early Cummins probably have the filters marked as to which side is the intake. That side where the suction is applied may have some reinforcement to prevent it from being sucked into the turbo. Below is a diagram of the '94-02 Dodge Cummins air filter system. I believe part #9 is what you're looking for. That thing must be rarer than hen's teeth. I found one on ebay for $60 shipped. Dodge Ram Cummins 12 24 Valve 94-02 Air Filter Intake Elbow 16506 | eBay It's odd that Dorman makes all kinds of those intake hoses but nothing for the Dodge. If you have a bit of time, find a store that sells wood working machinery and has dust collection systems. They use that type of flexible hose and it's much cheaper. Here's just one example that $17. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70128-4-Inch-Fl exible-Collection/dp/B002DSG4IY?th=1 I'm sure there are tons of these out there. Have to be careful because some hoses are not designed for vacuum and may collapse. Also, some of the super heavy duty industrial hose may not be quite as flexible. Also, not quite as cheap. Even Harbor Freight has the stuff. The better grades will have a wire molded in the hose.

Char thanks again. Ended up finding that dodge hose which should be in the mail. Good idea to use dust collection hose, I have some going to the planer and I suppose I could whack off a piece if the dodge doesn’t come through.

char1355 said:

Depending on the style, air cleaners usually flow from the outside to the center area. That's usually for the circular or cone type. The flat style like the early Cummins probably have the filters marked as to which side is the intake. That side where the suction is applied may have some reinforcement to prevent it from being sucked into the turbo. Below is a diagram of the '94-02 Dodge Cummins air filter system. I believe part #9 is what you're looking for. That thing must be rarer than hen's teeth. I found one on ebay for $60 shipped. Dodge Ram Cummins 12 24 Valve 94-02 Air Filter Intake Elbow 16506 | eBay It's odd that Dorman makes all kinds of those intake hoses but nothing for the Dodge. If you have a bit of time, find a store that sells wood working machinery and has dust collection systems. They use that type of flexible hose and it's much cheaper. Here's just one example that $17. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-70128-4-Inch-Fl exible-Collection/dp/B002DSG4IY?th=1 I'm sure there are tons of these out there. Have to be careful because some hoses are not designed for vacuum and may collapse. Also, some of the super heavy duty industrial hose may not be quite as flexible. Also, not quite as cheap. Even Harbor Freight has the stuff. The better grades will have a wire molded in the hose.

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Trying to get the sleeper running by next Tuesday... typical to make parts runs on Fridays before businesses close for the weekend.

Reworked original alternator harness and changed a few ends out for the dodge alternator. Cut out excess cable length/resoldered/heat shrinked.

Attached ground straps between both inner fenders, core support, and cab.

Using ford starting and charging system. Starter fired right up last night, a victory! Still have to do cooling air and fuel priming so no complete startup yet.

Took my wiring diagram, ford/dodge alternators and harness to the shop that rebuilt them, got help. It works, but does anyone see any problem with this?



Seems pretty simple


Pertronix relay was used for 390 coil but will use it for the fuel solenoid with key on.

Pertronix relay used as 12v fuel solenoid, boost tubing. Tip, use tubing cutoffs as cable/hose protectors


2ga starter cable is about 5.5' long, a little close to fan but have it fastened down


trying to keep everything organized and out of the way of AC workings.



Starter connections

For exhaust brake, bought a ‘BEP’ switch off amazon. Had a choke cable knob that fit, keyed the shaft for the allen screw.

Not fancy and doesn’t have a throttle shutoff, but like the ‘old-school’ simple (and I didn’t want to install an led switch and a multi piece throttle sensing switch that requires regular adjustment. Hopefully this works.)

Exhaust brake switch on left

On the starter wiring, 2ga is bare minimum on these diesels. I usually recommend 2/0ga which will carry twice as much current. Diesel starters pull a lot of amps. Also, the grade of the wire can affect the current carrying capacity. The smaller wires within the cable like good welding cable are better than cables with coarser wires. Don't know if you're running a stick shift, but most mount the exhaust brake switch there. Doesn't matter so long it works for you.

Going to try and start it. Going to review some dodge and cummins reading, have a board for the turbo in case of runaway, will prime oil galleries with the garden pump.

Filled with coolant last night, had a steady drip from oil cooler area so pulled things apart, cleaned and reused gaskets with hightack sealant. Fingers crossed for nothing else major!

Made 2ga batt cables initially but had it recommended by char1355 to run 2/0 ga, so got all the parts sourced for that soldered up and mounted. Appreciate the tips.

All factory gauges working.



Lower radiator pipe, used parts of the old 2-1/4”, beading tool JOBBERDO saved the day

Upper hose

Drilled out a M6-1 bolt attached to a tube to bleed fuel system

Catch jug

Made a panel bracket for Tiny-tach diesel tach, standard under dash mount for Hewitt Industries boost/pyro gauges. Exhaust brake switch leftmost on right bank of knobs.

‘Finished’

Clearancing around the dodge fan

Again appreciate you guys being patient with me as a newbie and sorry for the frantic questions, Have put a ton of work money and thought into it and unfortunately I think it’d break my heart if I screwed something up majorl!

Wanted to verify oil filter head/gasket/cooler were compatible with each other and the block so phoned cummins and had a nose diving conversation centered around finding the ESN, so found Youtube Cutterup Rob’s business on the web and talked to him in person. Sent him $10 bucks for his time on a 5 minute call. He had the video on which Cummins oil cooler gasket to use, so I figured he was a good source of information and he was. After explaining mine said what I have is compatible.

. Drove some hilly highway miles 40-45-55-50 mph to break in, has noticeably more power than the 390. Stayed away from 5th gear just reading that from others on breakin. Was a pretty uneventful drive and am grateful for that.

Temp gauge doesn’t work, going to have to evaluate. Used a temp gun on head most everything was in the 175-180 degrees temperature.

At first Was worried about cold oil pressure but operating temp idle came down to 45 psi, maybe 75-85 when running higher rpms. Clutch and hydraulics work, starting/charging system works, egt was maybe 500, boost was barely anything, maybe 10pounds. Engine shakes a bit at idle but not terribly. Mirrors do not shake as some have said would happen but then it’s a 75 degree day. Starts right up. Laid down the throttle once and there was a light to moderate black smoke cloud. No white smoke in general exhaust is clear. No banging, scraping noises, no burning smells, no spraying fluids or leaks, just the rattly noise of the motor.


Tiny tach does not register any rpms. ‘I wired it up correctly.’ Called tiny tach to order, he was adamant I have 1/4” injection lines (not 6mm). This sound right? Will have to get on the phone to diagnose.

Tried exhaust brake once for a second, works, makes a hissing sound. That sound right? BD rep said it’s acceptable to have a 3” band clamp over exhaust tube to cast iron 90 degree exhaust elbow. Need to check that the pressure is set on the ebrake, haven’t had a chance to research it and read the pamphlet.

Seems most everything has come together but dont want to ‘jinx’ the project. ‘I love it when a plan comes together.”

Had the 1330 front prop shaft rebuilt a few years ago, needs shortened so going to convert to 1330 cardon joint. Still need to move battery/solenoid over to the other side to make room for air filter intake. Will make a fan shroud but am holding off until I’m able to find a cheap aluminum spool welder attachment. Going to put ac condenser install off a few months til there’s more room in the budget.

A few years ago I sandblasted the underside of bed and cab and frame, then por15’d it after degreasing and etching. Seems holding up mostly except for gravel chipped areas. Sooo....... I got to thinking about an extra building water heater sacrificial cathode magnesium rod. Read a book on vehicles rusting, learned it comes down to electricity. So, want to cut pieces of this magnesium and ground them to the bed, cab, frame, and front clip in inconspicuous places. I imagine marine equipment in salt water have this in a similar arrangement.

Idea is that the rusting would occur on the magnesium rather than the body part because magnesium is a less noble element than the steel parts. I recall that if a person uses brass or stainless fasteners, it causes the steel to rust faster.

Seems to be a lot of questions lately on the oil filter housing gaskets. You can use either one so long as the filter head is correct . Your engine block appears to be the STORM model which came out in 1997. See 1st photo below. That engine would have used vertical filter housing 3924338 and gasket 3942915 shown in the second photo. The oil pump would be part 3930336 (4939585 newest number) which is rated at 14.6 GPM. The older style engine blocks like in the 3rd photo used filter head 3902295 and gasket 3905589 (3929792 new number) shown in 4th photo. Oil pump was part 3914005 (4939585 newest number) which is the same for both engine types. All models had oil pressure relief set at 65 PSI. What pressure shows up on your dash gauge can vary depending on the accuracy of the gauge.