Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner
141 - 146 of 146 Posts

·
Premium Member
1972 F250 4x4, 78 d60/d60, 3.55, np205, 200hp 4bt nv4500 superHX30w
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Update: 1300 miles at this point. Overall impression: Definitely a worthwhile swap.

Have not adjusted turbo wastegate or pump or anything. Badger diesel installed 3200 spring and #1 fuel pin, assuming that is 'turning up the pump.' Have changed a driving habbit to start in 1st gear no throttle every time, big rig driver method.

Positives:
-Driveability, gets around well.
-Can drive 70+ without screaming rpms with NV4500
-Averaging 20mpg. Best 27, loaded down 17mpg.
-Reliable, starts right up, charging system no issues.
-Hauls full bedloads of wood and dirt/wood chips without a problem
-No metal or shavings in oil pan, coolant/oil look good.
-Not a smouldering heap at the side of the road.(y)
-Temp gauge works, barely above C 180 seems to be the temp gun operating temps.
-Tach/Boost/egt gauges responsive.
-Little or no smoke mainly on take off.
-Seems to have started running quieter and smoother after initial 500 miles.
-Trans/clutch operate well. More expensive/time consuming but generally I go through everything rather than wait to find out if it needs going through.
-Haven’t detected any leaks except for a bit around power steering fittings which I thought were tightened well enough before layering them in the 'rat's nest.'
-Exhaust brake.

Wheel Tire Sky Vehicle Automotive parking light

Took a heavy/large canoe mounted high and gear/camping supplies, drove 55-60 no problem after seeming to struggle a bit in high head/cross winds, up/down hills.

Haven't pushed it hard maybe highest 900 degrees and 18 psi boost. Egts cool pretty quick letting off throttle. Driving around town, maybe 400-600 egt. On highway 60-70mph in 4th or 5th, 700-800 avg. egt, 13 psi boost. Does this seem 'normal.'

Negatives:
-Exhaust is 'quiet' but engine noise is significant. Set rockers with 10/20 feeler gauges on assembly but haven't rechecked yet. As a result, don't use radio as much, but will get better when not in windows down season.
-Have to rev 3rd high to get to 4th where it seems to lug a little around 38-43 mph. As was suggested, need to be at higher rpms to get up to speed. A 6 cyl would probably match the ratios of the NV4500 in this truck a bit better.
-Vibrations not terrible on idle and not an issue during operation but shutdown seems like it could wear something out eventually.
-Gear rollover noise at idle with clutch engaged/trans in neutral, not a big deal.

See thumbs ups, men asking about it. Noone at the diesel pump suggesting I have a loose rod yet. My wife who follows along with the kids in mini van said, when we pull in the old men wave and are curious, they need to wave at me and the silver honda minivan...

At this point, more than adequete power level/driveability for a 3/4 ton 4x4 if I have expectations set accordingly. Expecting to hang with traffic on the interstate at 80mph would be not an appropriate expectation.

Grain truck scale says, 3560LBS front axle, 2400LBS rear, 5880LBS loaded with canoe, frame, full tank (in-cab), gear in back, and my son in the passengers.

Any suggestions on pump or turbo adjustments?

Again am very appreciative of everyone's help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,272 Posts
Your numbers sound very normal. Hope that temp was 180 deg F not 180 deg C. 180 C is 356 F. LOL. Noise, yes, to be expected. It's a 4 cylinder diesel with a firing order that creates noise and vibration. The NV4500 gear ratios are not great for that engine. The 6bt does do better but that is mainly because it has so much more torque that it can get by that gap in gear spacing. Engine shut down is the little kid under the hood saying I don't want to go to bed. Again, that is totally normal. You've put some miles on it and basically broken it in. I'd recheck the valve clearance. Always a good procedure on a new engine. Doesn't hurt to recheck occasionally, say every 12,000 miles. Doesn't take much time. Now for tinkering. 18 PSI boost is basically stock on 105 HP. You're burning clean so you don't have an over fuel issue. EGT is very good. Mileage sound perfectly normal. For a bit more kick in the pants you might do some small adjustments to both injection pump and turbo. If you add more fuel you need more air to burn it. Also, a timing adjustment can go hand in hand with those mods. You don't want to get too aggressive on the timing or a blown head gasket may show up. I'd adjust the fuel maybe 1/4-1/2 turn and change the turbo waste gate tension to get maybe 25 PSI boost. Don't want to do tons of adjustment. In general, your engine is running very good and doing what a diesel is supposed to do. If you adjust it up and don't like it you can always reset to the original setting.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 F250 4x4, 78 d60/d60, 3.55, np205, 200hp 4bt nv4500 superHX30w
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #143 · (Edited)
Moved battery and associated wiring to drivers side to allow air filter to be up front. Bought a silicon intakes 4” aluminum elbow pipe and cut one end down. Used the old Ford battery tray, drilling spot welds, bending brackets opposite direction, rewelding, paint, installed and done.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle

Each ‘operation’ I try to make something additional work better so that if the intended result is not a whole lot better at least something else will have at least been improved. For example, Upgraded 6ga alternator line and starter cables were shortened moving it over, cleaned up wiring.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Gauge Gas Automotive exterior

Have the hella H4 headlights (halogen) operating off a battery relay. Switched out standard wattage for the high wattage Hella high beam/reg wattage low beam bulbs, high beams providing an excellent field of view in night driving.

Wanted to adjust timing for rackety noise and retorque head, pulled the injector lines to torque head and time the pump. Only a few stud nuts needed a slight bit of torquing the rest were very close to 125ft/lb.

My brother bought for me a VE pumpcalibration kit, so used the dial indicator, extension, and adaptor kit to set 1.0mm plunger lift on #1 TDC. Eggman passed along 1.0mm timing spec for CPL 0858. Socket extensions all linked up to the barring tool. Previous was 1.54mm TDC. Holy smokes, engine runs completely more quietly, smoothly, and with a ton less clattery sound. There is a slight clatter at idle. Seems to have as good and better power/acceleration. Would be able to hold a conversation in the cab and not have to SHOUT now. Boost #’s might be slightly higher.

Was noticing that many other CPL’s had timing specs with more advance than this 0858 1.0mm. Many if not most others with 1.6mm to 2.0mm, so not sure why 858 engine builds would require the 1.0mm, thus being more retarded in comparison with other CPL’s.

Any precautions I should take or anything to keep an eye on now that I made this change in timing? Seems odd tilting the pump away from the head, thus retarding timing from 1.54mm to 1.0mm would make it seem to be running with this better result. Opposite of what I expected. So much more driveable now.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 F250 4x4, 78 d60/d60, 3.55, np205, 200hp 4bt nv4500 superHX30w
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Thanks for sharing Rob’s engine compartment photo. Clean fitting of components. I notice two batteries, I’ve fortunately had success running the napa 850 cca at 0*, and the power master dodge mini starter. After changing the fuel filter there has been a lot of cranking/bleeding fuel lines going on, and I don’t believe it faltered for a bit. I am sold on mini starters. Don’t see a need for dual batteries at this point but probably am jinxing myself.

Had a front hub and rotor with .003 runout making a pulsing squeak so had some Friday night time and pulled it and replaced with a dana60 ’96 hub off a d50 ttb. Only place making new replacement ford dana 60 hubs is torque king at $550 per, no thanks TK. They are proud of their stuff and they hide interchange #’s on their website but amazingly if you google a spicer or ford # you will get linked to their site. Smooth running this time. ‘78-96 dana 60/dana 50 hubs interchange.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,272 Posts
Have to remember that Rob's blazer is a 6bt so a single battery just won't usually cut it. OEM Dodge Cummins started out with a single that was like 1025-1115 CCA but they soon changed to duals. That original single isn't the most common thing in parts stores. I used to have a Peugeot 504D and it had a single battery that was a monster. I had to use a lift to get it out of the engine bay because it was so heavy. Sucker weighed 65 lbs. Mercedes 240D used the same battery but the terminals were in reversed position. Finding a Peugeot battery was near impossible so I used the Mercedes. The cables did just reach. If you wanted an upgrade single sometime that Mercedes size would be the ticket. It's 950 CCA but it's a big puppy. Near 16" long and costs around $200-250 depending on brand.
 
141 - 146 of 146 Posts
Top