Why did you need to mount it so low? Are you using any body lift?
Unfortunately, some of the decisions are compromises. Below were the major items that drove the modification decisions for this conversion.
> Ford Transmission adapter housing - this placed the starter on the passenger side vs driver side found on a Dodge adapter housing. I know the GM/TH400 adapter housing has the starter on the passenger side..but I don’t know if the starter is in the exact same location as the ford adapter housing.
> Stock Bronco Hood – I think most that have done the NV4500 trans in a 4bt EB have a “raised” hood of various types.
> Wanted to keep the front & rear drive shafts to similar angles/lengths as today.. which are not extreme.
What was changed…..
> Installed a 2” Body Lift
> Trans/Transfer case – raised it 1 ¼” from stock crossmember location. Of course, this could not have been done without the 2” body lift. The trans/transfer case was moved back 1” from the stock location. So, 1 ¼” up ..1” back means only a slight drive shaft length change for the rear and a longer front drive shaft. The angles were only slightly changed.
> Passenger frame rail notched for the starter clearance. So, this is a major decision when using a Ford transmission adapter housing in an EB and a stock hood.
> Front crossmember modified to drop the front of the engine to allow the use of the stock hood and for the transmission/transfer case location. The engine still has a ½” slope from front to rear valve covers with respect to the frame. This did allow additional firewall clearance. By dropping the engine, a case could be made for a slight improvement in the center of gravity…not sure if that will be of any real significants.. In addition, I wanted additional firewall clearance for the testing of different turbine housing configurations. There are many variations of turbine housings that can be used.
> Oil Pan modifications - still to complete….. I have cut it and made some of the pieces. Current plan is to offset the main sump over the amount that needs to clear the front differential. This will require additional patch pieces and welding but will maintain the same amount of oil capacity. Though…it might be easier to have made a complete new offset sump. Again, this might be avoided with a driver side “starter”, allows moving the engine more to the passenger side and if it is raised.
Oh… the corners we paint ourselves into!! Would I do it again?? Still hopeful to find out in early 2010! Good luck with your conversion!:beer: