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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I figire its time to restart my build thread. I origonally was putting my 4BT into an 85 chevy 1 ton... Then an 86 chevy 1 ton cab chassis. both of which had extensive frame rot problems that showed themselves only after I had spent money on sandblasting and numerous other things. I even actually drove the cab-chassis truck. Out of my 3rd bay and back into my 2nd bay but hey that counts.

Then I found it! A 89 chevy being sold on c-list for parts or repair. I went and looked at it in the pole barn where it was sitting on jackstands, on concrete, with the tranny and t-case in the back. A driveshaft here and there, and bolts everywhere. The previous owner had passed 4 years prior.

I noticed then that it had been there for a while. It was last lisenced in 1998. Yes 13 years ago. I thought oh crap and proceeded to offer the guy a third of his asking price. He declined and we went on. I then bought a Miller 200, 2 pickup loads of crap, and an International 1566 with a loader.

A few weeks went by and I got a call saying that he thought we could come to some sort of an agreement on the truck... Aparently he likes $100 bills:)

I went up and bought it. No keys. tires wouldn't turn:confused: Well F it I hooked up my harbor frieght winch and hit the button. It came.

After I got it on the trailer I noticed the top wasn't strait. It had been rolled then fixed. Which I knew. But was told the top had been clipped/replaced. Guess not. Oh well I had already Presold the engine putting me a whopping $150 into the truck.

The shed it was in. This was 1/3/11
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got it home

I got it home. Proceeded to take out the engine. Then put it up on my hoist and started mith some measuring. Did alot of searching around this forum. Then tore into him. I say him because The truck became known as "CHIP" Partially for the color and also because of the Chip truck the engine had been in.

First was to get the crossmember for the torsion bars out of the way. I posted the pics in another thread so here they are.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?17491-extending-torsion-bars&highlight=
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chip

Then I put in a new 34 gallon fuel tank and the proper sending unit/fuel pickup tube. routed new lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Time for a bit of cleaning. I steamcleaned the frame and underside of the cab and box. It went right down to bare metal in places. Let it dry and painted the framerails in the engine bay. The rest of the frame will be treated with Rustmort and undercoated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Testfit and clearancing

I testfit the 4BT and started grinding and cutting just how I saw Fangoul do his. I can't thank him enough for all of the pictures of his mounts. The detailed description of how what was cut.

I went a bit further on clearancing that I would have had to. I'll be using the front set of slots in the frame brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Trans rebuild

Did I mention I own a Transmission shop. So why put the trans in without rebuilding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Transfer case

I used the input shaft out of a dodge NP231 and the rest of it was the NP241 that was origonal in the truck. To do this I drew up and had a local machine shop make an adapter to clock the bolt pattern correctly.

To answer any requests. Sorry but if you want a ring like this It would'nt be easy since I had it made on a saturday It cost me $180. I had to drill countersink and tap the holes after having it made. I think it turned out nice. The ones on e-bay that are comparable are $225. The cheap ones there are $50. I paid the extra for the "its done" factor. Considering they would only clock 12 15 or 22 degrees and I was needing around 80 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Its in

Time to put some 2002 factory rims on it. Much better. The 4BT is in now along with the 47RH and NP241. Here is what I did for shift linkage. Its an industrial push pull cable. don't get much simpler than that. I am a firm believer in the kiss (keep it simple stupid) theory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I like the cable shifter. Is it a factory column you are shifting with? Did the throws match that of the tranny?
Yes I just hooked it up to the factory shift lever on the column. The P R N OD positions are correct but the dodge trans then goes to 2nd when in D and 1st when in 2nd and the lever won't move into the low position but thats minor as far as I'm concerned. It works great. I have since found a surplus catalog that the cables can be had in different lengths/throws for $15-$20 go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bounce Its alive! bounce

Installed the front driveshaft. Had it made out of 2" x 1/4" DOM to clear the trans. I had my local machinest make it and after installing it and throwing a dial micrometer on it its .004 out :) I guess i'll have to deal with it. lol

Got me a rear driveshaft off a 99 dakota. I had to play with the circlip thicknesses on the u-joints but it was pretty much a direct drop in. the U joints on the dodge have about .040 more distance between the yoke ears than a chevy 1/2 ton.

Now time for the wiring, Throttle, cruise, and to make all of the guages work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
intake

I used an airbox off of a 95 chevy with a vortec. The expansion tube worked well off the same truck. Since the airbox came with this bodystyle truck it mounted right in the existing holes. I'll be plugging the extra hole with a pex plug soon as I get one.

Notice the jumble of wires. Most of which are now useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
update

Well I've put 10,000 miles on the truck since Its been done. I'm getting a solid 20mpg.



I installed a grid heater on it this weekend. I made the intake plate from 1/2" aluminum and the top piece from 1/2" and 1/4" plate. then welded it up and ground it smooth. I cut the tube off the old intake and welded it to the new one.
 

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Hey Ryan
Iam doing a similar build. Ive got a tranny out of a 5.9 common rail. Dont know what type it is but it looks like yours. I was wondering if you could help me with my build. I need to understand what i need to my tranny to operate half way decent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Baytowndaddy, The simplest way is to run two toggle switches. one for overdrive and the other for lockup. OR you can spend some bucks on a computer to do it for you.

I have gotten my hands on Gearvendors Overdrive controller that I am planning on commanding my lockup with.

Also be sure to check out the link in post #2 to another thread on this build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update. I got ahold of a HX35W with a 12cm^2 exhaust housing. I also ordered a 3200rpm Gov spring from Scott. Gonna give the pump a tweak too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Holy whistleing!! I still need a intake rubber coupler but wtf duct tape it is. well was. Its got alot of whistle to it going down the highway and when i laid into it a bit I blew the tape out. lol. Time to order the right coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I got my EGT and Boost guages hooked up and It'll build 22PSI max boost and on the level if I lay into it the EGT's go to about 1350. If I'm climbing a grade then they will continue to climb as I let off it around 1500 or so. By the time my EGT's get that hot im doing about 75 anyhow so it wont be under normal driving conditions. On the flat I'm at 5psi and 800 degrees at 60 mph.

No intercooler yet. I've got my VE pump at 1 1/2 turns and I'm thinking of pushing it a bit further.

Going to put the 366 spring in soon.
 

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do you have pics of how you mounted the engine in? or links to where you may have gotten the parts?
im just getting into this. i just had my 700r4 rebuilt stronger and put it in to find out my 350 has a bad knocking rod so i been looking into 4bt today instead of having a 350 sb rebuilt.
also i believe i have an np241 transfercase..
info VERY appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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