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Discussion Starter #1
Well this is my 2nd Cummins swap and I've gotten a bit of it done so I'm starting this thread. Here is what I started with. A 1993 C3500 extended cab dually from Texas with no engine or trans.

ok awaiting my subscription to apply:( back tomorrow to edit...Should be an interesting thread. I cut the frame off from the firewall forward. Tubed it with 4" square. I've got the 60 under it the old fashioned way (no kit). got a 94 6bt paciently waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ha ha sweet. Thanks for helping out the other night. Now at least I know the tappet cover gasket leaks. I'm gonna try to change it without taking the pump off. Also doing the KDP so might be easier to just pull the pump.

Here is a favor I cashed in. A friend with a tow truck is nice to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Out with the old

The first thing to go after alot of debating on weather I "needed" 4wd. But technically I don't even need the truck so why not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Time for mockup

I looked around the net for pictures of someone who has already done this and found lots of pictures of kits sold to do this. What I wanted was a low buck way of doing this. I have 4" lift springs for the 73-87 or the factory 5 flat pack from the 85 ton dually dana 60 front end. The goal is to keep the truck as low as I can. I like the looks of a 4" lift but any more than that and tossing firewood into the back and hooking up a gooseneck start to suck.

Mocking up with lift springs....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
getting creative

Here is what I came up with for a front frame. I didn't want to constantly work around the spring buckets and odd shapes of the old frame. I also wanted more room for the 6bt's air conditioner which needed to take up the same real estate as the idler arm bulge in the frame. The frame is 4" by 4-1/2" so 4"x4"x3/16" tubing it is. I found some cut offs at the local steel mart. Much cheaper than buying a stick.

Ended up with 27-1/2" between the tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
mounting the 60

Many ideas later I came up with the simplest stupid fix. Always the best way to go.

I used the stock shakle hangers off the 85 and put what used to be 4"x8"x1/4" tubing in to support it. Cut into a 3"x6" angle 5" tall.

Since the leaves are already flat they will only get shorter when compressed or relaxed. So I didn't need much room for reward movement of the shackle. I don't anticipate any issues with the outer shackle bar but if there is I will simply make a curved one.

A keen eye might notice that I've only got about 2" of up travel before the spring pads hit the tube. I might have to change something later but for now its fine. the 5 pack of leaves doesn't move much. I have a 4 pack in the front of my plow truck and only get 1/2" of squat when I raise the 8' commercial Meyer plow (about 600#'s).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Rear blocks

I put 4" blocks in the rear to match the front. Someone once upon a time put 1" lowering shackles in the rear so I'm really only 3"up from stock in the rear and before I put the stock ones back in I want to see what the weight of the 6bt, rad, trans, intercooler, bumper, ect. does to the front suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Steering

Brown santa stopped today with a Dana 60 high steer arm. I'm planning on using the stock 2wd box and pitman arm with the tapered end going into the hole in a stock steering arm from an older chevy axle with the short end cut off and I'll drill and thread the long end and screw a hiem joint into it.... I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok that didn't work. The stock arm's end joint only turns I need it to be a ball and socket like a tie rod end. Hmmmmm.... Don't really want to order one.
 

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Thats a very interesting way to get a Dana 60 up front. I have a friend who used one of the ORU kits. It made the truck very huge over a stock but yours looks like a 81-87 Chevy 1 ton dually stance. I like it, hopefully it works out. I am not knocking work because i cant fab from crap but i am un sure about cutting the frame? I would like to know more about it
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thats a very interesting way to get a Dana 60 up front. I have a friend who used one of the ORU kits. It made the truck very huge over a stock but yours looks like a 81-87 Chevy 1 ton dually stance. I like it, hopefully it works out. I am not knocking work because i cant fab from crap but i am un sure about cutting the frame? I would like to know more about it
About two feet behind where I welded it the factory has a splice where they welded it. So thast why I didn't worry about it. I would think that the DMV in Cali. or somewhere that you would have to get an inspection might have a beef with it but I'm in Iowa so no inspection no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well after going through all the work of turning a 7/8 drill bit into a TRE taper bit. I might get to drill out my high steer arm. Looks like I'll be ordering a pitman arm after all.

Here is one i found. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Superlift-1104-Machined-for-Chevy-Draglink-Taper/3163/3360/3361

I don't see why that won't work except that I have very little room between the frame and leaves to sneak the rod through.

Angle grinder strapped to the carriage with a 3.5* angle set to make a 7* taper. then relief cut the area behind the leading edge and it worked.bounce
 

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About two feet behind where I welded it the factory has a splice where they welded it. So thast why I didn't worry about it. I would think that the DMV in Cali. or somewhere that you would have to get an inspection might have a beef with it but I'm in Iowa so no inspection no worries.
I got what your are saying. It looks like the new metal slides right into the frame is welded to the original frame? Maybe your on to something that your could sell later, Straight axle conversion kit with out crazy amount of lift. One other question, why you couldn't you use the stock frame and just modify the hangers to adapt to it? I know i am focusing on the wrong thing since its Cummins site but i always wanted to make my project 98 3500 SRW 4x4 look a little tougher with a big ol axle underneath with out alot of lift. Pa i know wouldt like the frame cutting!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Blackdog. The reason I decided to hack the frame was because there wasn't a strait spot to be had for the purposes of motor mounts and shock mounts. Also the spot where the Dodge AC needed to be was a big bulge holding an idler arm. Along with the spring buckets being part of the frame and no longer being needed basically told me that It would be less work to just get rid of it. HOWEVER.... If I was keeping the chevy engine I would have left the frame. Also you'll notice the caliber of tools at my shop. This is not something I would recomend for a shadetree mechanic. It can be done though.

Yes the tubing is about 2" inside the origonal frame. Welded all the way around and a 1" hole on each side of each tube plug welded.
 

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O I def noticed that you have the tools! I would never attempt to anything like that! I understand now about the brackets on the engine etc. I have heard of people cutting the frames. Very interesting, i am gonna follow this build!
 

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lookin awsome ryan!! Can't wait to see that motor sitting in the frame. Truck has a perfect stance, love it. I also love the use of your grinder to make your tapered drill bit lol! That's great : ) Keep us updated
 

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Discussion Starter #18
steering box mount

Got the steering box mounted today. Had to order 14mm x 2.0 x 150mm bolts for the box. I got the mount idea from a 2005 duramax. only I used DOM.

Also I added to the top of the frame so that I can take a like ammount off the bottom giving me room for steering linkage and suspension compression.

I still have to cap the ends and cut and plate the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Factory front leaf mounts 95 Chevy 3500HD

I seen this truck along the road today and the front leaves cought my eye so I stopped to take pics. It might give someone an idea. Little late to make any difference on my build.

It has a 10 foot dump bed on it. I assume it was a factory cab-chassis truck.

I want a grille like this!!! without the riser below it.
 

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That riser is how you can tell its a TRUE 3500 HD from a glance...thats equivilent to todays 4500s...todays 3500HDs are just 1 ton trucks with HD badging...my dad has 2 of the real ones
 
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