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Discussion Starter #42
Without the front axle do you think the front sump pan will work?
I think steering hardware would be in the way still. That said, you could probably get by with a rear sump pan without the modifications I had to do.

Been a while since my last post but, I’ve got some pretty big updates.


I have somewhere between 5-8k miles on the swap now. I’ve got 4x4 all hooked up and working, (most) leaks fixed, and most of my bugs worked out. I average 23.5mpg combined and my worst fill-up was 21mpg (mud tires installed, winter fuel, in-town & some towing (4Klb trailer). I’ve been working on ECU tuning, smoothing things out and reducing smoke. Aside from the Quick Spool logic, it’s a pretty clean burning setup, which is awesome for daily driving.


I’ve got 2 issues though, that will require and engine pull:


#1. My welded/modified oil pan is cracked and leaking. This is partially my fault. I had a friend do the welding pro-bono. There were a few pinhole leaks here and there. I felt bad asking him to redo them so, i got a little creative with some JB weld. Mistake.


#2. This is a big one… This past summer, I started to hear some rattling coming from the drivetrain. A closer look… The outer piece of the 2 piece Mercedes flexplate started to come loose. This assembly is held together (for positioning) by 3 rivets. It is then held together (structurally) by bolting a torque converter to the flexplate… my setup, not having a torque converter, relied only on the rivets… which eventually wore out







I tried to fix this issue by welding the flexplate through the access hole in the oil pan. I used a TIG welder and did not add any material. This would ensure i’m not throwing the flexplate off balance. Still, I did not the flexplate perfectly centered. This caused my crank position sensor to occasionally “miss” crank pulses. This caused hard misfires and inconsistent rack position/output. Not good.


So, it’s time to pull the engine. And if I’m going through the pain of pulling that thing out… the low mileage spare engine is going back in (from the parts car I bought last year).

It’s the quietest 606 i’ve ever heard…

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zpnbf2u6h5cvaBGLA





I’m not going to think about all the money I poured into the old engine… It’s been sold to a buddy to swap into a 1976 s-class mercedes.


With the sale of the old engine, I’ve somehow managed to justify a DM 7.5mm Dieselmeken Pump. Ordered straight from DM, it wasn’t cheap but, these guys are the best in the business. Erik was great to deal with and also provided some idle calibration rack position values. This will help when setting the pump up with the DSL1.

 

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Discussion Starter #43
So, this engine needs some work. As always, the “well, while i’m in there, i may as well…” logic set in and i’m replacing a bunch of parts:

  1. Valve stem seals
  2. Valve cover, oil pan, water pump, turbo train, intake/exhaust manifold, injection pump, oil pump housing seams/gaskets
  3. Replacing two broken glowplugs
  4. Replacing all valve springs with om648 units (who knows, maybe i’ll need to rev this thing little higher one day)
  5. Front and rear main seals
  6. Clean intake valves
  7. Coolant Bypass mod
For broken glow plugs, I used this method: https://sites.google.com/site/alanmcreynolds/howtoremovebrokenglowplugs-mercedesom606.


I’d highly recommend it.








Cleaning the intake valves. Diesel fuel, banded-together zip ties, and elbow grease. I’d then tip the engine on it’s side to dump all the gunk out, then spray them down with brake cleaner. This worked a lot better than vacuuming out the gunk.


after:







Cams/lifters removed for valve work.




New Front & Rear Main Seals




Not the prettiest “machine shop” setup but, i needed to made sure the waterpump housing was drilled and tapped perfectly straight for the AN fittings i’ll be installing.








That pretty much brings us up-to-date. The engine is pretty much stripped down. I’m waiting on parts (valve springs) at the moment. For the time being, I'll work on cleaning & painting this engine and starting to pull the old engine. I’ve been daily’ing the truck up until this point so, it’ll suck to take it off the road again. Hopefully the swap doesn't take long.


 

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On your flywheel problem, are you using a clutch/flywheel? How does it attach to the auto. flywheel, it would work if it were attached to the auto. flywheel with those same 6 bolts, or am I missing something?

Ed
 

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Great swap and thread detailing it. I did a 606 into a toyota t100 about 3 years ago, also with Baldurs ECU and also a manual transmission. I've been looking at upgrading to the HE221w turbo...hence how I found this thread....and I'm really glad I did because I've got the potential to have the same issue as you with those missing torque converter bolts. Mine hasn't slipped, not sure how as it's got about 12,000 miles on it, but i'm sure it's just waiting to happen. sorry to hear it did on yours, but thanks at least for posting it to help the rest of us.

I will say I'm curious how yours drove with that flywheel, I'm using a stock toyota 3.4 flywheel (23 lbs) and it looks heavier than the one that came in your kit. For a car application the 23lb one I have seems fine, but for a truck the om606 doesn't have grunt down low due to the short stroke, lower displacement, so I'm thinking it really needs a much heavier flywheel. Curious if you found the same or if it's just something I'm finding.

Also it looks like you used the same dodge engine mounts as I did, did you find they transfer a lot of vibration to the frame/cab of the truck? In hindsight I wish I had gone with the mercedes fluid filled ones, but I built my motor mounts at a 45° like you so I'm sol there.

If you were curious, my build thread is over on IH8mud, it won't let me post a link but if you google "om606 1994 t100" it's the top result
 

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Discussion Starter #46
On your flywheel problem, are you using a clutch/flywheel? How does it attach to the auto. flywheel, it would work if it were attached to the auto. flywheel with those same 6 bolts, or am I missing something?

Ed
Yes, the merc flexplate is sandwiched "behind" the flywheel and adapter (this allows you to use the factory starter). those bolt holes are "floating" out in space with nothing to bolt up to. the crank adapter is just that, only a crank adapter. I've got grade 8 bolts in there now with lock washers... should do the job.

Great swap and thread detailing it. I did a 606 into a toyota t100 about 3 years ago, also with Baldurs ECU and also a manual transmission. I've been looking at upgrading to the HE221w turbo...hence how I found this thread....and I'm really glad I did because I've got the potential to have the same issue as you with those missing torque converter bolts. Mine hasn't slipped, not sure how as it's got about 12,000 miles on it, but i'm sure it's just waiting to happen. sorry to hear it did on yours, but thanks at least for posting it to help the rest of us.

I will say I'm curious how yours drove with that flywheel, I'm using a stock toyota 3.4 flywheel (23 lbs) and it looks heavier than the one that came in your kit. For a car application the 23lb one I have seems fine, but for a truck the om606 doesn't have grunt down low due to the short stroke, lower displacement, so I'm thinking it really needs a much heavier flywheel. Curious if you found the same or if it's just something I'm finding.

Also it looks like you used the same dodge engine mounts as I did, did you find they transfer a lot of vibration to the frame/cab of the truck? In hindsight I wish I had gone with the mercedes fluid filled ones, but I built my motor mounts at a 45° like you so I'm sol there.

If you were curious, my build thread is over on IH8mud, it won't let me post a link but if you google "om606 1994 t100" it's the top result
White lightning! I took notes on your swap back in the day. it's one of the swaps that pushed me to an om606 behind a full size truck!.

The "gutlessness" of the om606 seems to be part of the game. My om642 powered jeep isn't much better. Even with a VGT that spools by 1600rpm, direct injection, and a much lighter vehicle, it's a complete dog outside of boost. A buddy of mine (anothernord on ih8mud) who's only a few miles down the road form me has the same complaint, no power off-bost.

Regarding motor mounts... there's a little vibration at idle but, not any more than the factory v8. As soon as i come off idle it's perfectly smooth. Are you using the diesel truck mounts? or the v8 Gas/van mounts? yeah... the GM had these massive 45* angle perches right in the middle of everything. I figured i'd put them to use as opposed to cutting them off.

Hey man, while i've got you here... is there any chance you'd be willing to share your CAD drawing for the motor? I'm building a crazy turbo setup and it's help big-time with my manifold fabrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Finally got some time to get the old engine pulled. This was really only possibly by pulling the core support, which wasn’t too bad.







Flywheel and clutch look decent. I don’t see any excessive wear or hot spots.









I found the issues with my flywheel “fix” pretty quickly. Off center before welding and it looks like i arc’d across a few of the crank position flags.






Took quite a bit of cleaning but, i decided i wanted to paint this engine. I decided on cummins beige as it’s really close to the OEM valve color.






Milling out some cracks in the oil pan welds to have re-welded.

 

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Discussion Starter #48
Replaced all valve stem seals and all valve springs with e320 CDI springs.




Adding Water/Meth Injection this time around and I wan’t to see what my intercooler’s up to so, I added a GM intake air temp sensor.




Also adding a wideband 02 sensor. I’m only interested in logging & tuning. I didn’t want something with a gauge. I don’t have room for it and I’d likely never need to view it while driving. This controller outputs a 0-5v signal that the DSL1 can monitor.




Added the “dieselmeken” coolant bypass. This takes coolant from the water pump and delivers it directly in between cylinders 5-6. The idea is that the coolant is heat saturated by the time it reaches the rear cylinders. Lots of folks have reported that when these engines overheat, the head gasket always fails near 5&6. I used 10AN fittings and Summit PTFE braided stainless lines. The entire mod cost about $75.





7.5mm Dieselmeken pump installed and timed. I wasn’t sure about this color choice but… I’m pretty sold now. Not bad.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kdzGId7gAqrDjjvmUikT4DRFqZGo_SbXQAtqOGKVPknoq98rS1GrwA1jfppOZ54dGIWG8ZBy7LhOCFKUa4ngadQ8H4IMjFv5VIoFBfWQNj-tWkCUPJmw3M5ASbkIHqItO4vjF6fVtHo=w800[img]

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7BBqgK5UX2ylA1sUr_PWFEeZbSrajYLftbKD81phLCMKfFE8K54l8N1Eo9kW9_7fb9BOUXc8ox8Yhwi3yao_hmcZxLivVnNP8UYda2_grMRNftD-izvKj8gB-V_0u0-lmCGL9L1ykiY=w800





After getting everything back together, It’s finally sitting on it’s own mounts. Getting the engine and trans mated wasn’t a lot of fun but… that process never is. I’ve got a few more updates here and there but, my goal today was to get the engine back in this truck (it’s 70* today and is forecasted to be 0* tomorrow so… this needed to happen. Now I’ve got a short list of upgrades i can tinker with:


  • O2 wiring
  • IAT wiring
  • MAF wiring
  • Water/Meth Injection plumbing and wiring
  • Proper Oil Catch can and crank case ventilation
  • Air Conditioning.
 

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I'm using what I believe are the gas v8 ones, the anchor 2469 instead of the 2710s that I initially had. The 2710s were made for the 1000lb 6BT I believe, and were way to stiff.

As for the engine CAD i'll happily share it...however i'm not sure how accurate it is in the areas you need, I really only measured the bellhousing area relative to the top of the engine to get the rotational angles right. The CAD is on my other computer, but i'll post it here if it lets me (Ih8mud won't let me post CAD type files).

Interesting on the new turbo. I'm curious what you thought of the he221w, I've been strongly considering switching to it, but I want to make sure it doesn't spool any later than the tiny 606 turbo I've got. Do you recall what rpm it started making noticeable (>5psi) boost at?

Good stuff on all those updates/upgrades you're adding....you're making me feel lazy haha like I need to go back and make some updates on mine. I'm interested to see what you do with the wideband, I'm pretty familiar with tuning a few gas vehicles, but I've never done any diesel tuning with one, just egt.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Interesting. Once I get this thing going again, I'll pay a little closer attention to vibration but, i don't think mine has been an issue.


@ 30psi, the 221w hits full boost at 2000rpm (in 5th gear). It starts to run out of steam at around 3500rpm. I'm at elevation so, I suffer in all areas on the map. at sea level, you'd get an earlier spool and a little more top end, it'll never spool as quick as the factory turbo though. IIRC, it spools around 1600rpm. The 221w makes a lot of torque though and made this thing really enjoyable to drive.

5psi (~800mbar atmospheric + 344mbar additional) comes on at about 1750 RPM.



Up until this point, I've only tuned via EGT as well (and pointing my passenger side mirror toward the tail pipe to view smoke (not the most accurate way to tune...)) I'm interested in AFR for areas outside of boost (mainly reducing smoke while cruising and trying to hit that 19-22:1 efficiency AFR. when in boost, it only makes as much boost as the amount of fuel you throw at it (to an extent) so, that part's pretty easy. The o2 and Intake Air Temp should allow me to put together a legitimate speed density tune. We've got some big temperature fluctuations here in CO so, it'll be nice to have accurate tuning in all temps/elevations.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Turbos:

the HE221w is a great upgrade for a 6mm pump'd 606. sacrifices a little spool for a whole lot more power.

Once i decided to go 7.5mm pump, I'm not sure the he221w makes much sense anyway. It looks like the 6mm pump can pretty much push it to it's limits. That said, I didn't want to sacrifice any more low end spool. modern VGT turbos are cool but, only have marginal benefits over the 221w (slightly earlier spool, & support for maybe 300hp. Power that falls off under 4500rpm. That's no fun in a diesel that's good for 5500.

I thought about compounds. I could compound the 221w with an hx super 40... that added a lot of complexity though. compressor matching probably wouldn't be perfect and the 221w compressor would be somewhat of a bottleneck up top. it's turbine would have to be bypassed with a massive wastegate at high RPM. I really like the simplicity and reliability of this build so far and i don't what to screw that up with overcomplicated turbocharging.

So, what about sequential turbos: The HP turbo is fully bypassed at high rpm so you get the best of both worlds. A small turbo to get going and a big turbo that runs independent when when higher flow is needed. no insane pressure ratios (high egt) and absurd intake manifold pressures (+60psi blowing off boost couplers). There are a few manufacturers that have built sequential systems over the past few years. The benefit here is, it's a proven system. Guaranteed to last for a while and properly matched compressors/turbines.

Borg warner has an RS2 system on newer BMW inline 6's (3.0L) that look like they make good power but, are still out of steam by 4500rpm. A little known secret is the Holset M2 from the Cummins-Powered Nissan Titan XD. Folks tuning these trucks are making ~500hp and ~750ft/lbs of torque at the reat wheels. a perfect match for the 7.5mm 606. Max torque comes on at 1600rpm (that's on a 5.0L so, my 606 will take a little longer to spool) and power seems to stick around until ~4250rpm (again, on a 5.0L. this should allow me to make power to redline on the 3.0L 606).

The turbos use a rotary valve to divert exhaust gasses to either the LP or HP turbo. it also has an exhaust brake mode that essentially shuts off flow out of the exhaust manifold. Holset has a pretty good demonstration on youtube.

I found a set of these on ebay, with the output pipe dented. I'm going to end up cutting that off anyway so, I got a deal on an otherwise-new setup. I also scored an actuator (Can Bus servo motor). If i can't get the factory actuator to work, there are a handful of other servo actuators out there that i can adapt.




You can see the size difference between the two turbos. The he221w is somewhere in the middle. The HP turbo is tiny, hopefully this equates to a really early spool.





Pics don't do this thing justice, it's a pretty good sized turbo. From my measurements, it's a little bigger than an hx35. The kicker is, in high flow mode, the HP turbo is not bypassed, it runs in parallel with the LP turbo. you get the flow of both without "compounding" from one to the other.


I ordered a 5/8" thick flange from Benzforce (shoutout to Rodney, he's a great guy and does a lot for the 606 community) and have started designing a log manifold. I've never built one of these before so input is valued but, know, this is a heavy turbo (~50lbs) so, strength is key (and one of the reasons i'm not going for a tubular manifold). Dealing with these oval exhaust ports is proving to be a real pain. that said, since i'm not going tubular, i don't see a real need to "convert" from oval to round when i can just dump them into the "log" (2" SCH40 pipe (.154" wall thickness)). I'll have those "port adapters" machined and saddle cut out of 1018 1.5" x 3.5" bar stock. the 2" pipe will be milled/slotted to match. I'll then use a t3 flange to join turbo and manifold (this will require extensive modifications to the turbine housing, more on that later).




 
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