Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

94 yj 4bt/nv4500

14K views 31 replies 9 participants last post by  steve 
#1 ·
this is my project its a 4bt nv4500 np 205 and dana 60 gm 14 bolt jeep it had a chevy 350 in it before this 4bt this is about round three it had all kinds of tranies and tranfercases and axles in it but i think i got it right this time.
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#3 ·
heres my cross member just got some odds and ends to finish up. not sure if i need the extra mount on the np205.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
What bellhousing are you using
 
#8 ·
the bellhousing is an advanced adaptor kit for a gm nv4500 to sbc. ill get the part number if needed.
 
#6 ·
thats pretty sweet!!! a P pumped 4BT wit ha NV4500 and a 205!!!! and a newer style"with ribs" 14 BOLT the transmission and crosmember seem a lil low to me is it gonna be a heavy off roader? could have the engine went up a lil more? body lift maybe? just a thought otherwise nice work looks good
 
#10 ·
the reason the cross member is so low is my driveshaft angle is so much or was it is 20 degrees now thats where i like it the shaft is 1410 series joints and they say it can run a 35 degrees but last summer it was at 30 degrees and the center barring wore out and broke as i was towing my boat not fun so this time around i set it low (engine trany transcase) to keep the drive shaft straighter and i elongated the wheelbase. its still got two feet ground cleance and it keeps the center of gravity low its got 1 1/2 springs and a spring over so its about 7 1/2 inch lift total.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
nice jeep its nice to see another cummins jeep is it running yet
 
#11 ·
Steve to answer your question on the added T-case support, yes you will need it. GM, Ford and Dodge all used an extra support on the married 205 t-cases. It is just too heavy for the tail housing to support alone.
On that last picture of your rear drive shaft, is it just me or is your pinion angle way out of alignment. It looks in the picture like it is pointing higher than the t-case.
 
#12 ·
ill have to add something for the extra support. and good eye the angle is out the pearches where welded on from my old setup with the chevy 350 i dont want to cut the pearches off and reweld them so im going to add some shims maybe 2*-4* should do it steal of course with the pin that goes through them and the leaf pack i didnt want to address them until the cross member and the rear axle (streched) and the weight of the tub were finished
 
#13 ·
ill show all the pics for the rear axle strech and trailer hitch and also a rear mounted 12000 pound winch next weekend
 
#14 ·
new cummins

my project got delayed this weekend. for a worthy reason i got a new truck just could not wait any more its a 2004 quad cab cummins HO color blk 45k on it IM SO EXICITED this truck pulls like nothing i had ever driven i think i might put my new 12000 pound winch on the front of this truck i just cant let it side track my jeep some pics tomarrow i noticed the 04 looked like they had bigger axles and a 4inch exhaust compared to the 03
 
#15 ·
some pics of the frame extension and trailer hitch i decided to skip the 1200 pound winch to much work.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
jeep

i got my jeep on the road after a year. i ran my gears and tires and i think it was like 1800 rpms at 60mph but just driving normal 1st gear is the usual low gear quick understandable 5.56 but second is almost not worth useing and 3rd feels like its reving to much i shift into 4th and it bogs down until i get to the end of the gear and shift into 5th and again bogs down until the end of the gear i have a nv4500 and a np205 and 4.10 gears with 37inch tires they have worn a little. maybe i got the wrong gears i dont know i dont want to loses my crawl ratio but i need it to be drivable i may not be taching it out enough because it sounds so loud. any input would help maybe someone has this setup
 
#21 ·
Being used to a 350 I am wondering if you have a tach and if maybe you need some tweeks to make it turn up where you want it to be.... diesels do pull a little differently. just an idea. ( I have yet to do my swap)

archie =) =) =)
 
#22 ·
i do have a tach but still in the process of getting it to work with the diesel. maybe some tweaks will help it out ill have to read on. but worst case i think differnt gears
 
#24 ·
turbo

i got a new turbo finally got my truck on the road still got a bunch of odds and ends but it drives. i do have a problem with gears its third and fourth if i could stay in third a little longer and not rev out and the same for fouth it would be great also the vibration is a little much but i gess i can deal with it. so i bought a new turbo its a hy35 im going to put a factory 2001 dodge exhaust in it and a chopped 6bt manifold with some bigger intake gear and maybe a fuel plate very soon i hope that helps with the gearing issues but overall is a cool setup i really like the diesel im putting my fuel gauge in soon too so ill post up some mpg numbers ive driven it quit a bit and the fuel hasnt went down much so i hope there good ill keep all posted pics video soon
 
#25 ·
fuel plate

just installed a #10 fuel plate and boost fitting i got from ebay. the sellers builds them him self there made very nice all one peace cnc machined. so after i installed them i didnt really notice to much until i turned the star wheel under the allen screw that made it work well. it almost solved the problem i was haveing with my gears maybe i was geared right and just needed alittle more power cant wait to get my pyro so i can turn it up some more i also noticed the engine is running 10 degress cooler and also sounds quiter
 
#26 ·
gauges

i got a couple questions im sure you guys can answer the first one is where do i connect the boost line to i have some ports on my intake is this ok i would have to put some reducers in it. the second is the pyro im going to be changing to a 6bt manifold where should i tap it. third on my 4bt manifold where should i tap into it and can i tap and drill it with the engine running and let the shavings go through the turbo i wouldnt think so but i dont know any help would be great thanks
 
#27 ·
i got a couple questions im sure you guys can answer the first one is where do i connect the boost line to i have some ports on my intake is this ok i would have to put some reducers in it. the second is the pyro im going to be changing to a 6bt manifold where should i tap it. third on my 4bt manifold where should i tap into it and can i tap and drill it with the engine running and let the shavings go through the turbo i wouldnt think so but i dont know any help would be great thanks
The boost line for the turbo or a boost gauge ?

The boost line on the turbo has a steel line to a rubber hose that runs in between the vave covers to the afc housing .

The boost for the gauge has a 1/8 NPT plug in the side of the head in the center of the head , those plugs maybe used so a tee fitting to tap into .

The 6b manifold need to be 5/8 off center on the rear side of the manifold flange .

The 4b manifold rear low mount should be in the rear section so cylinder 1 & 4. The turbo need to be removed to drill and tap for the probe and or install magnets and use grease and drill slow and clean the metal as you go. It's up to you .

Scott
 
#31 ·
thank you crewcab you have been a great help along with this forum.
 
#32 ·
oil residue

i was tinkering with my intake today was installing a heater grid from a 6bt and i noticed the inside of my intake horn and intake where all covered in a black residue it was dry like oil and dust what could this be where can it be coming from maybe the turbo is leaking oil somehow. and another thing the factory air horn is tiny
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top