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I have a 1995 f150 4x4 with a 4.9 i6 with a 5 speed manual in it and im looking too do a diesel swap for a 3.9l 4bt cummins. I know I need too get better suspension im already planning on getting a rough country 6" suspension lift but what else am I going too need for this swap It would be my first time messing with diesel but ig I'll learn something 馃ぃ
 

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I'd suggest you do some reading of other swaps in your vintage truck. There have been quite a few. Need to make a few decisions before you start. is this going to be a daily driver with normal power range or a more high performance version. Your transmission should be the Mazda M5OD-R2 and can do very well with a 4bt so long as you don't abuse it. Has excellent gear ratios for the diesel and will bolt right up to the Cummins Ford adapter plate. Have you found a potential engine? These things are getting more scarce every day. You'll have to work out the normal things like sensors for the dash instruments, engine mounts, ac mount if you have that, intercooler if you plan any power over 105 HP, fuel tank mod, batteries and wiring. You've already mentioned heavier suspension. With a 6" lift you must be planning so pretty serious size tires What gear ratio is in your differentials?
 

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I have a 1995 f150 4x4 with a 4.9 i6 with a 5 speed manual in it and im looking too do a diesel swap for a 3.9l 4bt cummins. I know I need too get better suspension im already planning on getting a rough country 6" suspension lift but what else am I going too need for this swap It would be my first time messing with diesel but ig I'll learn something 馃ぃ
I just did a 1989 f150 302/m5od back in march. My boss had the truck floating around the shop with a bad 302 in it and a 4bt/zf5 sitting in the back of the shop. The truck was and still is stock with cheap over load springs in the rear and thats it. The factory suspension is absolutely fine at holding it and I would suggest leaving it alone or just putting 2 in lift springs in the front. You will lose about 1-1.5 inches in the front when putting the 4bt in the same spot as the i6. Stock and just daily driving the truck on the street then if the M5OD is healthy it will hold up. However with the weight of the truck and with adding power OR lifting it and going way bigger tires then the stock 5 speed will die. If you want to do a 6 inch lift then do not cheap out on the lift or you will not be happy with the front end (personal experience on the lift) This whole swap for him at the shop is a one off on luck when it comes to cost for him. I think in total on that swap we are into the truck about $2000 might be less. 9 times out of 10 you will probably be around $10K into this or more.

The fuel system is simple, drop tanks remove pumps then extend the pick up to the bottom of the tanks. Get a selector valve for a diesel truck. Personally I run new fuel line.

Wiring is simple. All Wires that go to your oil pressure and temp sensors and if you want AC then save those. The wire to the + side on the coil and then remove all the other ones.
Hopefully you are good at fabricating. to make things easier find a 4bt from a ford.
 

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Ctorj, you are correct that it doesn't have to be extremely complicated. One thing you mentioned may be different on his truck. I believe 1995 dash gauges run through the ECM where your 1990 probably didn't. Have to be sure that unit has power even though it isn't controlling the engine.
 

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Ctorj, you are correct that it doesn't have to be extremely complicated. One thing you mentioned may be different on his truck. I believe 1995 dash gauges run through the ECM where your 1990 probably didn't. Have to be sure that unit has power even though it isn't controlling the engine.
The oil pressure and temp do not go through the ecm on a 95. How ever I did leave some info out about removing ecm and everything for a reason. I normally leave ecm/abs computers in and hooked up with everything factory wiring. I normally pull the gas engines strip the wiring harness off of it and de-pin wires that are not needed (ie:Injectors/distributor/EGR/Stuff like that) from the engine harness plug on the engine side. Ill then get new oil pressure and temp sensors (I normally get a new oil sending unit from about 84 ford and jump the resistor in the oil pressure gauge to get away from the dummy gauge) I will then extend the oil pressure wire and then fit the harness to the engine and just plug it in the factory engine plug. I do go so far and even use the factory ford starter solenoid.

When I change over the oil pressure gauge I will remove the check engine bulb and other bulbs I do not want.

I did forget the wire for the battery light is on the inner fender under the starter solenoid that I wire the alternator in.

I have done alot of swaps not just the one. I've kept my 94 bronco out of all of them seems to be the best set up in my own opinion. The 2008 f350 I did with a 06 common rail was a cluster on wiring when keeping the ford auto from the truck. I will not ever do one of those again.
 

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1995 Bronco XLT, 4WD, 4BT-ZF5
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I am just wrapping up putting a 4bt/ZF5 in my 95 Bronco. My biggest challenge has been working around the PSOM and it鈥檚 associated wiring. In my opinion Ford had some really crummy wiring systems when they first started switching to the instrument clusters that had 鈥渂rains鈥. My original intent was to leave the factory cluster but I just have too many issues with making things work right so I am going to completely get rid of the PCM and Cluster and install custom gauges. Auto World Conversions has custom mounts and brackets that make installing the engine very simple. That being said the mounts they provide transfer way too much vibration so I have some Anchor 2698 mounts on the way to try out. I figure I have about 10-12 full days into the conversion and could do it in half that time if/when I do it again.
And I love the swap so far, far better power than the 351 it replaced, it鈥檚 flat fun to drive.
 
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