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I've owned both a 6.9 and 7.3 Ford and never really had anything bad to say about them. For what they are designed for they are not a problem. They are not high performance hot rods but I've driven my 7.3 for over 330,000 miles and have never found the need for more power. I've crossed the Rocky Mountains 3 times with it weighing near 9000 lbs. One time me and a guy in a Dodge Cummins got into a duel. I was not fully loaded at that time and we crossed the mountains in New Mexico running about 75-80. Mine was an 7.3 IDI and he a 5.9 turbo but I kept up with him. When I first got into diesels over 40 years ago I learned to be patient. They build their power slowly. At that time I also owned a Ford Torino with a 429 CJR engine so I knew what high performance was like. Now modern diesels are designed to be more like cars in performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
I've owned both a 6.9 and 7.3 Ford and never really had anything bad to say about them. For what they are designed for they are not a problem. They are not high performance hot rods but I've driven my 7.3 for over 330,000 miles and have never found the need for more power. I've crossed the Rocky Mountains 3 times with it weighing near 9000 lbs. One time me and a guy in a Dodge Cummins got into a duel. I was not fully loaded at that time and we crossed the mountains in New Mexico running about 75-80. Mine was an 7.3 IDI and he a 5.9 turbo but I kept up with him. When I first got into diesels over 40 years ago I learned to be patient. They build their power slowly. At that time I also owned a Ford Torino with a 429 CJR engine so I knew what high performance was like. Now modern diesels are designed to be more like cars in performance.
It's always interesting how different people's experiences can be. My 02 7.3 starting having problems at 100,000miles, for the next four years after that it was one thing after another. I put over $10k into repairs and swear I had to replace just about every part on the damn thing. I finally gave up and offloaded it at 212,000mi when it left my stranded for the 6th time. I am now on my 5th Ram truck with over 500,000mi combined and not a single major problem.
 

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Was your "02 the IDI or IDI Turbo 7.3? The only major engine issue I ever had was the injection pump. The Stanadyne pumps in those early units wouldn't last but about 100,000 miles. I replaced the one in my 6.9 at about that and the one in the 7.3 made 200,000 miles. I replaced a few starters and a water pump or two but those are just normal maintenance items. Had a terrible time with alternators on the 7.3 until I changed to a 100 amp unit and no more problems after that. No major issues like you had. A local boat company had a 6.9 when I bought my '86 and they had 450,000 miles on it in 3 years. About the only time they shut it down was to change oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Was your "02 the IDI or IDI Turbo 7.3? The only major engine issue I ever had was the injection pump. The Stanadyne pumps in those early units wouldn't last but about 100,000 miles. I replaced the one in my 6.9 at about that and the one in the 7.3 made 200,000 miles. I replaced a few starters and a water pump or two but those are just normal maintenance items. Had a terrible time with alternators on the 7.3 until I changed to a 100 amp unit and no more problems after that. No major issues like you had. A local boat company had a 6.9 when I bought my '86 and they had 450,000 miles on it in 3 years. About the only time they shut it down was to change oil.
From ‘94.5 on up all Powerstroke Engines were Direction Injection w/Turbos. The IDI engines were way more reliable but just really low on power.
 

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Being a mechanic here in central Oregon most trucks that come through the shop are Ford and Dodges. I have fixed more cummins then I can even remotely remember but there is way more of them that are farm trucks or people use for hauling. Most of the cummins are between 170K miles and 900K miles. We have a few 7.3 Powerstrokes come though and normally we are doing HPOP/ Injectors/IPR valves/ Fuel bowls/ Oil coolers. Oh I cant forget glow plugs. Atleast with 6.0s you know they are going to have issues and every time they do you will know what it is. The very few IDIs that are around here are either farm trucks or old timers that take care of their trucks.

blderman - How does your tach pick up work? I do know some of the tone ring are for 99+ ford tachs. From your tach at idle it sounds like you have alot more pules then 4.

SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface The interface and the Flywheel tooth pick up screws into your adapter plate and you just put the amount of teeth into the interface and hook it to your tach. Its adjustable for whatever tach you are using. (FYI your gauge cluster in your bronco has a 8cyl tach there is jumpers on the back of it to change it to 6cyl and 4cyl)
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Being a mechanic here in central Oregon most trucks that come through the shop are Ford and Dodges. I have fixed more cummins then I can even remotely remember but there is way more of them that are farm trucks or people use for hauling. Most of the cummins are between 170K miles and 900K miles. We have a few 7.3 Powerstrokes come though and normally we are doing HPOP/ Injectors/IPR valves/ Fuel bowls/ Oil coolers. Oh I cant forget glow plugs. Atleast with 6.0s you know they are going to have issues and every time they do you will know what it is. The very few IDIs that are around here are either farm trucks or old timers that take care of their trucks.

blderman - How does your tach pick up work? I do know some of the tone ring are for 99+ ford tachs. From your tach at idle it sounds like you have alot more pules then 4.

SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface The interface and the Flywheel tooth pick up screws into your adapter plate and you just put the amount of teeth into the interface and hook it to your tach. Its adjustable for whatever tach you are using. (FYI your gauge cluster in your bronco has a 8cyl tach there is jumpers on the back of it to change it to 6cyl and 4cyl)
Auto World supplied me with a 12 tooth tone ring and sensor. I checked the back of my cluster tonight and there isn’t a jumper for different cylinders, it says right on it 8cyl only.
 

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Auto World supplied me with a 12 tooth tone ring and sensor. I checked the back of my cluster tonight and there isn’t a jumper for different cylinders, it says right on it 8cyl only.
So I don't know how the auto world one works but check this out Tachometer Kit: Ford 302, 351, 460, 5.4, & 6.8 Gasoline engine and 1999-2001 7.3 to 2003+ Common rail

Interesting on the cluster must be a change in 95. 94 and lower have different cylinders options on the back. However you have way more pulses then I thought 12. You need 4. At 12 Pulses you should be 2250 RPM is 750 RPM
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
So I don't know how the auto world one works but check this out Tachometer Kit: Ford 302, 351, 460, 5.4, & 6.8 Gasoline engine and 1999-2001 7.3 to 2003+ Common rail

Interesting on the cluster must be a change in 95. 94 and lower have different cylinders options on the back. However you have way more pulses then I thought 12. You need 4. At 12 Pulses you should be 2250 RPM is 750 RPM
Auto World is sending me a 4 tooth tone ring so hopefully that works. 2250/750 makes sense as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
One of these times I hope to post good news but ran into yet another snap today. I got my clutch hydraulic line swapped out for a stainless steel one and it fit the slave cylinder perfect. No leaks and pedal pressure built up with very little bleeding. However, I cannot get the trans in gear while the engine is running. When the engine is off it clicks into all gears very nicely. I have done quite a few clutches over the years and never ran into this problem. Just for reference I installed all new:

Luk Slave Cylinder
Motorcraft Master Cylinder
Luk Flexplate & Clutch
Pilot and throw out bearings
Had the flywheel resurfaced and balanced


Any advice before I drop the whole thing back out of the truck?
 

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These sbf internal slaves are a real pain to bleed. I'd keep bleeding it and see if that helps. I usually just bleed it good enough so it goes in gear then just keep driving it till all the air works out. See any leaks in the system?
 

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These sbf internal slaves are a real pain to bleed. I'd keep bleeding it and see if that helps. I usually just bleed it good enough so it goes in gear then just keep driving it till all the air works out. See any leaks in the system?
I have found the same and have needed to vacuum bleed them with a shop vac to get it to work, there must be a high spot that traps air because it sure takes a lot of fluid being sucked through before all the air comes out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
These sbf internal slaves are a real pain to bleed. I'd keep bleeding it and see if that helps. I usually just bleed it good enough so it goes in gear then just keep driving it till all the air works out. See any leaks in the system?

The system is 100% leak free now that I swapped the line. I have ran about 14oz through it so far and thought that was enough, should I do more?
 

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These sbf internal slaves are a real pain to bleed. I'd keep bleeding it and see if that helps. I usually just bleed it good enough so it goes in gear then just keep driving it till all the air works out. See any leaks in the system?
I was given the same advice by a master tech.

My bleeding setup uses a clear hose, that way I can see the bubbles.

Try this:

Have your assistant fully depress the clutch pedal and hold it for a few seconds (lets the trapped air work it's way to the top of the slave cylinder).

Quickly release the bleed valve - do you see some tiny air bubbles?

Good luck, Russ
 

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Sound advice. Yes I'd certainly try pushing some more fluid through before you go and pull the trans again. There is a very fine line between the clutch disengaged enough to work, and making just enough contact to be real stuff going into gear. If you can, jack the front of the truck up to help the air rise out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Sound advice. Yes I'd certainly try pushing some more fluid through before you go and pull the trans again. There is a very fine line between the clutch disengaged enough to work, and making just enough contact to be real stuff going into gear. If you can, jack the front of the truck up to help the air rise out.

Well the good news is I was just able to drive it by pushing the clutch as hard as I could to the floor so I think you are correct that there must still be air. I am going to hook up my vac bleeder to it tomorrow and see if I can get this done.

It ran great and the clutch felt solid so I definitely think I won’t need to drop the trans. I was also surprised how peppy the engine felt, I assumed I would have to do the governor spring and turn up some fuel but it already feels pretty good. Is there an easy way to check if some mods had already been done? When I got it it was non-ic with the stock turbo. I switched that out for an HX30 and put in an IC.
 

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Well the good news is I was just able to drive it by pushing the clutch as hard as I could to the floor so I think you are correct that there must still be air. I am going to hook up my vac bleeder to it tomorrow and see if I can get this done.

It ran great and the clutch felt solid so I definitely think I won’t need to drop the trans. I was also surprised how peppy the engine felt, I assumed I would have to do the governor spring and turn up some fuel but it already feels pretty good. Is there an easy way to check if some mods had already been done? When I got it it was non-ic with the stock turbo. I switched that out for an HX30 and put in an IC.
On the ford clutch system if it's empty I'll let it just gravity bleed till fluid is running out then close the bleeder and then bleed it like normal. Don't pump the pedal! Just normal pedal push or It will airate the fluid.

Just wait till you are driving fast and are in 4th or 5th gear. If the covers are still on the full power screw and the wires are still on the idle screws then it's stock. If they are miss no one will know if it's been messed with unless you have a shop check the pump flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 · (Edited)
On the ford clutch system if it's empty I'll let it just gravity bleed till fluid is running out then close the bleeder and then bleed it like normal. Don't pump the pedal! Just normal pedal push or It will airate the fluid.

Just wait till you are driving fast and are in 4th or 5th gear. If the covers are still on the full power screw and the wires are still on the idle screws then it's stock. If they are miss no one will know if it's been messed with unless you have a shop check the pump flow.

Well I pumped the heck out of it today so the fluid is probably well aerated!

Wires and cap are both missing so I guess that answers that question. I don’t have any shops where I live that are capable of checking pump flow so I will just leave it alone for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Bled an entire bottle of fluid today and it still would release the clutch all the way. I decided to look at the linkage rod since I had installed a Heim joint on it several weeks ago. I unscrewed the Heim and lengthened the rod by 1/8”. Bam, now it works...are these transmissions really that sensitive or should I be looking for something else wrong?
 

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Bled an entire bottle of fluid today and it still would release the clutch all the way. I decided to look at the linkage rod since I had installed a Heim joint on it several weeks ago. I unscrewed the Heim and lengthened the rod by 1/8”. Bam, now it works...are these transmissions really that sensitive or should I be looking for something else wrong?
My conversion (a mix and match of hydraulic clutch parts ranging form 1986 to 1997) was that sensitive. The push rod, at the clutch pedal required some adjusting (more than once...).

Russ
 
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