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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
My conversion (a mix and match of hydraulic clutch parts ranging form 1986 to 1997) was that sensitive. The push rod, at the clutch pedal required some adjusting (more than once...).

Russ
Good to know. Think I am going to take the rod out, cut a 1” piece out of it and put in a threaded coupler so I can adjust the length at ease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Got the 4 tooth tone wheel from Auto World and it works great. Just an FYI for anyone else looking to solve this issue.
 

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When matching hydraulic clutch slave units you must pay attention to the master cylinder. it needs to be the same bore and stroke as the one that originally came with the slave. If it's different, then you have to adjust so the fluid going to the slave is the same volume to achieve a proper release. If was the same as the OEM unit then you have to be sure push rod travel is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
When matching hydraulic clutch slave units you must pay attention to the master cylinder. it needs to be the same bore and stroke as the one that originally came with the slave. If it's different, then you have to adjust so the fluid going to the slave is the same volume to achieve a proper release. If was the same as the OEM unit then you have to be sure push rod travel is the same.

I originally tried that but I couldn't get the 1990 master cylinder to fit on the firewall of my Bronco. So I ended up having to use the 1995 factory master cylinder in conjunction with the 1990 slave cylinder. I drove it again yesterday and it's working but there is very little pedal travel before engagement. Any suggestions?
 

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I originally tried that but I couldn't get the 1990 master cylinder to fit on the firewall of my Bronco. So I ended up having to use the 1995 factory master cylinder in conjunction with the 1990 slave cylinder. I drove it again yesterday and it's working but there is very little pedal travel before engagement. Any suggestions?
What year is your zf5? if it is the early one(90) there is a option but you may not like it. Remove the transmission and remove the slave cylinder and get a 94+ and take a dremel to the hole in the bell housing for the fitting. I am sure you probably wont be up to that because I sure would not. As long as you get it where it would fully be disengaged and fully engaged then you would just have to learn the weird pedal. Just a heads up if it is not fully disengaging and the clutch is dragging then you will wear the syncros out fast in the zf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
What year is your zf5? if it is the early one(90) there is a option but you may not like it. Remove the transmission and remove the slave cylinder and get a 94+ and take a dremel to the hole in the bell housing for the fitting. I am sure you probably wont be up to that because I sure would not. As long as you get it where it would fully be disengaged and fully engaged then you would just have to learn the weird pedal. Just a heads up if it is not fully disengaging and the clutch is dragging then you will wear the syncros out fast in the zf.
Its a ZF5-S42 Wide Ratio from 1992, I believe. I would be completely fine doing what you suggested, if I can't get it to work properly as it is now. I have tested and am not getting any drag when the clutch pedal is in so I do think it is completely disengaging. As of this moment my plan is to run it for the summer and then do a full rebuild of the trans this winter when I am bored. I did my 99 7.3 that my employee uses the other day though and the ZF6 in that is pretty notchy and doesn't like to go into gear either so I am wondering if part of it is just the nature of the trans.
 

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Its a ZF5-S42 Wide Ratio from 1992, I believe. I would be completely fine doing what you suggested, if I can't get it to work properly as it is now. I have tested and am not getting any drag when the clutch pedal is in so I do think it is completely disengaging. As of this moment my plan is to run it for the summer and then do a full rebuild of the trans this winter when I am bored. I did my 99 7.3 that my employee uses the other day though and the ZF6 in that is pretty notchy and doesn't like to go into gear either so I am wondering if part of it is just the nature of the trans.
That is weird. My bronco and my bosses truck both ZF5s Have no issues going into gear heck his truck we are worried with his custom shifter being so heavy that it might fall into gear when its just idling. Mine is a 94 I rebuilt and his is a 90. Man if I was that far into a swap the last thing I personally would want to do is pull the transmission. I do to many R&R transmissions at work. Funny thing I just realized we don't have very many trucks with the zf6 come in. Most are g56 (dodges) and wore out nv5600s (dodges some of the worst) and with driving a stick all the time I do not pay much attention.
 

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How are the plastic bushings in the pedal assembly? If they are worn that will take out some travel. You should have a good couple inches off the floor before the clutch engages. I have a 95 f150 with an s547 zf5 I put in that is pretty notchy. I also have a 97 7.3 with an s547 zf5. I fully rebuild that trans with synchros, sliders, slider hubs, new 3rd gear etc. That trans still doesn't like to go into gear sometimes and is a bit notchy as well. Just the way they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
How are the plastic bushings in the pedal assembly? If they are worn that will take out some travel. You should have a good couple inches off the floor before the clutch engages. I have a 95 f150 with an s547 zf5 I put in that is pretty notchy. I also have a 97 7.3 with an s547 zf5. I fully rebuild that trans with synchros, sliders, slider hubs, new 3rd gear etc. That trans still doesn't like to go into gear sometimes and is a bit notchy as well. Just the way they are.

The pedal assembly is brand new but I noticed before I even put it in that the plastic bushings are a lousy design. If I knew the clutch was going to be this sensitive I would have put bronze bushings in before I installed it. I get clutch engagement within less than an inch of pedal movement so I bet you are correct that the slop in those bushings is just enough that it's causing me problems. Getting that sucker back out is darn near as much work as pulling the trans, lol!
 

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Blderman, the master cylinder for a 1990 Bronco has a bore of 22.35mm or .88" The 1995 unit has a bore of 18mm or .709". That would definitely explain why you have no pedal travel on the clutch. If it would be possible to fit the later slave on you transmission that would cure that problem. The 1990 transmission is a ZF S5-42 and 1995 would have been the ZF S5-47. Not sure if there is any physical difference in the housings or not. Sort of surprised the '90 master wouldn't fit the '95. The cab section of the body didn't change for those years.
 

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Blderman, the master cylinder for a 1990 Bronco has a bore of 22.35mm or .88" The 1995 unit has a bore of 18mm or .709". That would definitely explain why you have no pedal travel on the clutch. If it would be possible to fit the later slave on you transmission that would cure that problem. The 1990 transmission is a ZF S5-42 and 1995 would have been the ZF S5-47. Not sure if there is any physical difference in the housings or not. Sort of surprised the '90 master wouldn't fit the '95. The cab section of the body didn't change for those years.
Old pictures from about 9 years ago:
131121

Clutch master cylinder removed from my 1986 F150 - NOTE: Threads protrude into the cab

131122

1997 clutch master cylinder - NOTES (as best as I can reconstruct): Bolt holes have a different spacing and the threats protrude into the engine compartment
NOTE: Screwdriver slots hut into attaching bolts - It is difficult to be on both sides of the firewall at the same time...

131123

The original 1986 part was worn out - The part for the 1997 has a different end at the clutch master cylinder and is not adjustable. I bought a NAPA / Balkamp # 615-1187 replacement (for a 1986) and fabricated an adjustable rod to fit the 1997 clutch slave cylinder (no picture exists).

NOTES:
1. The NAPA / Balkamp # 615-1187 appears to be discontinued - Try Googling "ATP #FX231" for a different brand.
2. This is discussed in my build thread here (found it in Google, I haven't tead my own thread in years...):

Russ
 

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Blderman, the master cylinder for a 1990 Bronco has a bore of 22.35mm or .88" The 1995 unit has a bore of 18mm or .709". That would definitely explain why you have no pedal travel on the clutch. If it would be possible to fit the later slave on you transmission that would cure that problem. The 1990 transmission is a ZF S5-42 and 1995 would have been the ZF S5-47. Not sure if there is any physical difference in the housings or not. Sort of surprised the '90 master wouldn't fit the '95. The cab section of the body didn't change for those years.
This is absolutely correct on the bore difference. As I said option 1 is remove transmission slot the bell housing to fit the later slave cylinder. Option 2 is get use to the odd ball pedal which might be fun in a drive through haha. Option 3 is get a custom rod for the master cylinder which I have no Idea on that unless you make one.

char1355 - The ZF s5-42 went to 1995 for the 351W. Now for some reason Ford casted the hole in the bellhousing for the hydraulic line connector bigger in 93
 

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Old pictures from about 9 years ago:
View attachment 131121
Clutch master cylinder removed from my 1986 F150 - NOTE: Threads protrude into the cab

View attachment 131122
1997 clutch master cylinder - NOTES (as best as I can reconstruct): Bolt holes have a different spacing and the threats protrude into the engine compartment
NOTE: Screwdriver slots hut into attaching bolts - It is difficult to be on both sides of the firewall at the same time...

Russ
Did you mount the 97 master cylinder to your 86? If so I like the slot idea. 93 and up clutch pedal assembly have studs welded to it for the master cylinder, That's what makes it fun installing it without disassembling everything
 

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Did you mount the 97 master cylinder to your 86? If so I like the slot idea. 93 and up clutch pedal assembly have studs welded to it for the master cylinder, That's what makes it fun installing it without disassembling everything
Yes, I am using a 97 master cylinder on my 86. That is because I am using a 97 M5R2 transmission, so the master, slave and hydraulic lines are all 1997 parts - That way, it is designed to go together and replacement parts are easier to find.

I've had a couple of slave cylinders fail (internally leak down) - the plastic slave cylinders don't last long. Last time, I replaced both the master and slave with aluminum bodied cylinders. Also replaced the hydraulic line - it was worn from all the slave cylinder removals...

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Old pictures from about 9 years ago:
View attachment 131121
Clutch master cylinder removed from my 1986 F150 - NOTE: Threads protrude into the cab

View attachment 131122
1997 clutch master cylinder - NOTES (as best as I can reconstruct): Bolt holes have a different spacing and the threats protrude into the engine compartment
NOTE: Screwdriver slots hut into attaching bolts - It is difficult to be on both sides of the firewall at the same time...

View attachment 131123
The original 1986 part was worn out - The part for the 1997 has a different end at the clutch master cylinder and is not adjustable. I bought a NAPA / Balkamp # 615-1187 replacement (for a 1986) and fabricated an adjustable rod to fit the 1997 clutch slave cylinder (no picture exists).

NOTES:
1. The NAPA / Balkamp # 615-1187 appears to be discontinued - Try Googling "ATP #FX231" for a different brand.
2. This is discussed in my build thread here (found it in Google, I haven't tead my own thread in years...):

Russ
Russ, thank you for all the info! I will definitely be working on making some changes in the fall/winter. Likely will use the ‘90 master cylinder again but will modify the firewall to make it work. I tried the clutch again yesterday and with temps in the ‘80s and it having been bleed for over a week it’s actually working really well now. So my priority has now shifted to fixing my oil pan leak and welding a bracket for the bottom of the intercooler so I can actually go for a real drive instead of just down the forest road by my house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Well I got everything buttoned up last night and insurance reinstated. Turned up my full power screw till the idle started to hang and then backed it off a 1/2 turn. Power is great, but I am getting a lot of smoke till 2,000rpm. I also installed a modified fuel pin and turned the smoke screw CCW 2 turns but no change in smoke. Is there anything else I can try to reduce the smoke? I have no interest in clouding people on sidewalks etc.
 

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Well I got everything buttoned up last night and insurance reinstated. Turned up my full power screw till the idle started to hang and then backed it off a 1/2 turn. Power is great, but I am getting a lot of smoke till 2,000rpm. I also installed a modified fuel pin and turned the smoke screw CCW 2 turns but no change in smoke. Is there anything else I can try to reduce the smoke? I have no interest in clouding people on sidewalks etc.
Turn the fuel down until you get a different turbo. What turbo do you have? Is it the stock h1c still? Look for a hx30w with a 6 cm exhaust housing.

The stock little h1c is very slow spooling. Check out Char's post at the beginning of your thread it's the 2nd or 4th post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Turn the fuel down until you get a different turbo. What turbo do you have? Is it the stock h1c still? Look for a hx30w with a 6 cm exhaust housing.

The stock little h1c is very slow spooling. Check out Char's post at the beginning of your thread it's the 2nd or 4th post.
I have an HX30w with a 6cm.
 

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I have an HX30w with a 6cm.
Oh I was going off your pictures. What is your boost at and how fast does it go up at the intake?

When I first put a hx30 on my 4bt I did about the same as you on tuning but with all the smoke I ended up with, I backed everything up some to get the smoke down to just some when I lug it. I then installed a boost gauge and found it was hard to get to 20+ psi, this made me install a boost elbow so I can adjust the waste gate easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Oh I was going off your pictures. What is your boost at and how fast does it go up at the intake?

When I first put a hx30 on my 4bt I did about the same as you on tuning but with all the smoke I ended up with, I backed everything up some to get the smoke down to just some when I lug it. I then installed a boost gauge and found it was hard to get to 20+ psi, this made me install a boost elbow so I can adjust the waste gate easier.
Yup, HX30w with a 7.3 intercooler; just haven’t posted pics of the finished setup yet. I don’t have boost/egt installed yet; I know I really need them but I am SO far over budget that I need to save some money till later this fall. I don’t intend on doing any long drives with it, just back and forth to job sites a few miles away so I feel like that is pretty safe for a few months. I had it up to 70mph tonight though and there was no smoke at all when it’s cruising or accelerating. Only getting a fairly heavy cloud on initial acceleration, turbo lights up pretty quick.

Without opening up the VE pump is there a way to tell if the 3200 spring had been installed? I initially thought my pump was modified but the more I work on it the more I am finding that everything appears to be in stock form. I can rev out to 3,000rpm but it just feels like it takes some effort to get there.
 
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