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Discussion Starter #1
Finally!!!
I am ready to begin the swap that I should have done years ago. Been working on my engine since last november and now it is ready!!!

Had to get the 5.8l back out first


It only has 6k on the rebuild, anyone interested?

Engine looks better on the cherry picker


Got both of the v8 mounting brackets removed





Then I put in the (hopefully a perfect bolt in for the cummins) straight six plates






Not too shabby for starting this morning with a fully assembled and driveable truck. I wish I could have done more, but things go slow when you are by yourself.
I got the exhaust removed as well as removed rivets, plus all that fun wiring and the core support and all front parts.
I think that is enough for one day! If the weather holds and I do not work tomorrow, I am going to try to get the engine installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well today was a BAD day. I think this project is gonna get benched. There is no way to mate the trans to the engine properly. I mean they match up, but how do you get to the flexplate/wavering bolts?

Anyway, I did get the mounts on, I think this is how they go.





Got the 6 stud torqe converter installed



but look at the back of the motor with the flexplate removed again



How do you get to the damn bolts?!?
 

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That is an interesting question. Can't really reach them through the starter hole or the access port on the driver's side can you. Most auto setups I've seen have a removable panel to get at the bolts. If this is a Cummins/Ford SB adapter it was probably only designed for manual transmissions. I don't think I've ever seen a Ford cube van with an automatic unless it was an allison. You may have to make an access hole in the transmission bellhousing. Could put an access hole in the adapter plate at the bottom but that would mean removing the oil pan to get at it. That would be a real PIA. You can't be the first guy to attach a Ford auto to a Cummins.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well, I have a theory....
I put the dust plate up to the adapter and I am thinking of cutting the bottom out of the adapter. I might be able to make it work.


either that or I could make a slot like the destroked adapters



 

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Discussion Starter #6
can't I might be able to access the wavering bolts if I take the wavering off the flexplate and bolt it to the torque converter first. But even then I don't think so. I'll double check it.
 

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I think you're on the right path on notching the adapter plate at the bottom. Would need to machine away only about a 3-4" area. Probably not enough room to get a torque wrench in there but some loctite and a good snugging up with a wrench should keep everything happy.
 

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Is the Dodge adapter plate that much different? I'm sure I mounted the Dodge Adapter plate to the 4BT; then the flexplate\flywheel. After torquing down the flywheel, I then loosely installed the Torque Converter......then slid the TC onto the transmission and mounted the transmission housing to the adapter. Then thru the starter hole, I was able to tighten the TC bolts.
 

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Are there holes in the flex plate that line up where the wave ring bolts to the torque converter? If so, then you'd think you could get to them through the starter hole. Do you have a photo with the flex plate and wave ring mounted to the engine?

BobS posted a list of parts for the Ford auto flex plate and wave ring assembly in Jul of 2010. Is your set up a Ford or GM unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I got it all together tonight!!! It did take some modification though. I had to notch the trans adapter plate.






The trans it out, and it is mounted to the engine now, but in the garage....

I decided to take some serious meat out of the firewall since the engine still didn't want to get into the engine bay, even with the trans removed.



I tried my had at fiberglassing it today. First time messing with fiberglass, and shit is it a messy pain!!! Damm thing kept curing too fast.
Supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so no sanding or painting the firewall I guess, or any other progres for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Fibeerglass work is done, and it was a mess!!
Got some paint over it. Kinda looks like crap, but I don't really care, as I need to get a new cab soon anyway.


Got everything between the engine and trans together properly.


With a lot of effort, I finally got it all in.


Looks pretty level to me


I do think that the engine is tilted too far back though. I think I need to bring the front of the engine down.
Quite a lot of room here.


What do you guys think?
 

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Looking good. If the front to back tilt doesn't bother anything I believe I'd let it be. You'd be able to change an oil pan gasket without any sweat. Looks like you almost have walking around room from the front of the engine to the radiator area. Makes it nice to be able to get at stuff. Do you have enough clearance to remove the rear valve cover to adjust valves? Hopefully a few more days and it'll be time for a road test.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
rear valve cover is removable, but still kinda tight. The engine is tilted back at about 8 degrees. Seems like a bit much. The turbo just barley clears the hood, but I might have to cut another 6bt manifold to move it forward, as there doesn't appear to be enough room to run a downpipe. This will create a problem if I move it forward, cause then it will hit the hood...

The hard line is the factory ford PS return line, and I guess it is supposed to provide some cooling.

I need to find somone that has big exhaust pieces with radius bends. 2 days of phone calls and I am comming up empty.
 

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You have a couple of exhaust options. If you want to keep the manifold you have look into using a cobrahead exhaust off a Cummins 8.3. 47ford used one on the same trubo you have. He made a custom coupler since that turbo has a odd sized outlet. The other option was one by 52wrench in a 90 F150. He used the stock 4bt manifold and reversed it. Puts the turbo up front and then he used the factory cast iron elbow and a down pipe. Looks extremely neat. That one requires a spacer between the manifold and the head and one under the turbo to clear the injectors. I'll try to attach photos of each if I can.
 

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Your swap is looking pretty good. My engine has about the same amount of tilt as yours, hasn't really bothered me at all. Just curious, are you planning on putting the stock A/C compressor on the 4bt? Just wondering with how you have the tensioner mounted.
 

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rear valve cover is removable, but still kinda tight. The engine is tilted back at about 8 degrees. Seems like a bit much. The turbo just barley clears the hood, but I might have to cut another 6bt manifold to move it forward, as there doesn't appear to be enough room to run a downpipe. This will create a problem if I move it forward, cause then it will hit the hood...

The hard line is the factory ford PS return line, and I guess it is supposed to provide some cooling.

I need to find somone that has big exhaust pieces with radius bends. 2 days of phone calls and I am comming up empty.
8* degrees is what I set my motor at. Thats the degree I was looking for, and I am very happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yeah, stock ac is going to go on the upper left side.

I would like to get another manifold and move the turbo forward to make room for a 4" exhaust, but to make it fit, I'll have to find a way to lower the front of the motor a few inches.
 

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As I understand it from previous threads there are at least 3 different sets of frame brackets/aka engine stands used by Ford. The V8 & late model IL6 mounts will set the engine too high in the frame. The early model IL6 seem to work out perfectly.

On the engine front to rear tilt; I try to keep within 1-1/2 degrees of tilt of the rear axle's pinion tilt angle.

On the engine vertical tilt; You can gain some exhaust pipe to frame crossmember clearance by tilting the engine slightly towards the air inlet side or tilting it towards the exhaust side to clear exhaust to cab cowl & floor clearance. It does not have to set completely level.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey Bob,
The plates you are referring to... the ones I have are the same ones as you are talking about correct? I mean they look just like the ones in the sticky.
 
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