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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, new here...

I have started down the path of replacing my 4l with a diesel. I have most of the parts and am going to be working on motor mount planning this weekend.
Its a 97 Grand Cherokee Limited, 4l, crappy 42re is being replaced with an AW4, 3.73 gears, 30 in tires with a 3 inch lift. Ive poked around and it doesnt seem like anyone really does this with a grand cherokee as much as a Cherokee or Wrangler. Kinda curious why...

Anyway, i have been poking around looking for motor mount ideas and it occurred to me that no one uses the stock mounts. I would assume that the Cherokee mounts are similar to the Grand cherokee where the replaceable mount is bolted to the body. Is there a reason that the engine bracket is not fabricated to use that stock mount? Seems like it would hold the engine in all three directions without a problem.
 

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Not sure the Jeep mount will hold up to the diesel, I used the Benz mount with success. It does require you add some way of limiting tension. Without the little shocks that do that they could pull apart, so I wrapped the mount with nylon strap. Did the job. The AW4 will be a nice trans to use, the stand alone controller is not hard to set up. Basically the tps and tv cable do most of the control, just takes time to get dialed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you use the stock MB arms on the engine side? I dont suppose you have a picture of the mount setup you used?
 

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Sorry, I don't have the Jeep anymore. The Benz arms can be used with a bit of modification, possibly to the Jeep frame as well. The mounts are just the beginning of the modifications, oil pan, panard rod, steering linkage, etc. I hope you're not planning on heavily wheeling it because the front sump/oil pump makes oil starvation a big deal at steep incline. Also with this motor 3.73 gears will not be happy, 4.10 minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah im already planning on going to 4.10s. Not heavy wheeling at all, occasional camping trip and minor off roading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Its been a little over a year now and i finally was able to get back to my swap. RL decided to get in the way... I have motor mounts made and besides a little tweak to the drivers side mount, its almost ready to bolt in. Im looking at getting the modded pump to get more power. I have searched and searched and i cant seem to get any possible hp/tq ratings by element size. Anyone happen to know what kinda of numbers are probable for 6-7 mm elements?

There have been a few minor changes to the setup as well. i have a 4 inch Rough Country lift with adjustable track bars and probably go with 32 inch tires. Sourcing a 231 locally is a problem here as they are all snatched up pretty quick out here. So it looks like ill be sticking with my 249 for a bit...
 

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Its been a little over a year now and i finally was able to get back to my swap. RL decided to get in the way... I have motor mounts made and besides a little tweak to the drivers side mount, its almost ready to bolt in. Im looking at getting the modded pump to get more power. I have searched and searched and i cant seem to get any possible hp/tq ratings by element size. Anyone happen to know what kinda of numbers are probable for 6-7 mm elements?

There have been a few minor changes to the setup as well. i have a 4 inch Rough Country lift with adjustable track bars and probably go with 32 inch tires. Sourcing a 231 locally is a problem here as they are all snatched up pretty quick out here. So it looks like ill be sticking with my 249 for a bit...
Please give us an update on this, i as well have a zj om617 and im just about done with my swap!
127548
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
RL got in the way again.. The 4.0 went back into the jeep in October for a trip in November. Then i got married. But good news is that the project is back on track again. I re-fabricated the mounts as the originals i made were way too bulky and i decided to steer away from the stock MB mounts. The engine is bolted in and i'm looking at the oil pan now. Yours looks like a much bigger lift than mine so im guessing that you aren't running into the clearance issues that i am. Currently i'm looking at modifying the oil pan to be a rear sump.

I did get the 4 inch lift on it, i still need to order some adjustable uppers in the front and get those on to fix a clearance issue with the bump stop perch on the drivers side. But things have gone pretty well so far with getting it together.

I'm also toying with an idea to keep my stock AC compressor using a separate pulley system driven off of the water pump and mounting it in front of the intake manifold. This will depend on the intake piping though. I'm trying not to have to have custom AC lines made and i just replaced the AC pump and recharged in November. Power steering will be handled by an electric pump i sourced from an MR2 Spyder with the built in controller.

It looks like yours may be mounted a bit higher that mine. How close is the valve cover to the body?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ill try and get some pics up when i get a chance. I have a few on my phone of the mounts i made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So thanks to covid things didnt get done very quickly until the last couple months. I will post more pics tonight.
I have converted the oil system to rear sump with a whole new custom steel oil pan made from scratch
engine is all bolted in place
HD steering linkage to go in
Intercooler and piping is accounted for
Upgraded IP with Dieselmeiken elements is done and installed
HX30 Turbo is installed
4 inch rough country lift is installed
most of the wiring is "cleaned up" but still lots of electrical work to do.
Over the next couple days i will be getting all the plumbing finished. Oil lines, coolant lines, fuel lines, and turbo/intercooler piping.

Its finally coming together!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Lift Kit install
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Motor Mounts - ignore the mess
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Fancy new high powered injection pump - Bosch MW with Dieselmeiken 7.5 mm elements
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Oil Pan - Front Sump to Rear sump conversion. Even with a 4 inch lift the stock oil pan caused clearance issues.
Aluminum upper pan - Milled the entire bottom section off and replaced with a 1" thick piece of 6061 aluminum
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Oil Pump - Wasnt welded yet or cleaned up in this picture
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Steel Pan - fabricated from scratch using 13 gauge steel
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oil Pan continued
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and finally, this is what it looks like now... but, imagine it all bolted up in the jeep and filled with oil.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well not as productive today as i was wanting but i did get some things done.
Shock boots, extended brake lines and wheel spacers are on the front wheels now. I also started on the oil lines and cooler, And got my intercooler mounted.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So i ran into an issue today when bleeding the brakes. One of the front stainless brake lies is no good. Nice leak right at the joint where the line goes into the block....
I did finish the shock boots and wheel spacers. Much better looking stance now. Ignore the messy garage....
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My Winch decided to photo bomb...

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Been a while since i updated the thread here. There have been some adjustments and some screw ups...

I converted it to a dry sump oil system to gain some additional clearance in the front due to the upgraded steering. Bought a used Weaver 3 stage pump on Ebay and made my own mount for it. Made my own reservoir, oil capacity is ~8 qts.
Front bumper has been fabricated and painted
AC bracket for Sanden 508 is made - Still needs testing.
Front and rear ends have been rebuilt with 4.56 gears and bigger tires. I opted to keep my 16 inch alloy wheels so the tires are around 31.5 inches.
 
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