how involved is it to get the pump top off. is there another way to try and get the pin free'd up so i can pull the diaphragm. I rotated with it still in the housing, but i dont know the orientation of the fuel pin. It pushes up and down good, but it just wont pull out. Apparently I have it turned to the least fuel position cause it feels weak and will only boost about 9 psi now. doh!!!!
Try shooting some penetrating oil underneath the diaphragm so it runs down the front side of the AFC pin. Hopefully, some of it ends up on the fuel pin. Work the throttle back and forth while turning and working the AFC pin up and down. DO NOT open the throttle with the AFC pin out of its bore as doing this can (will) result in the fuel pin ending up in the bottom of the AFC bore. Once you get the AFC pin out, check for movement of the fuel pin by holding in on it with a small screwdriver and opening the throttle. When the throttle is opened, the fuel pin should move out of its bore
You can try it. Mine was so badly frozen that when I had the pump top off, I tried to make the pin move with a stout pair of pliers and it wasn't even going to try! I tried penetrating lube, etc. That sucker was REALLY frozen in there. I thought I was going to have to buy a new pump top. The guys at the pump shop got it freed up, though. I cleaned the bore and polished the pin before re-assembling it.
Taking the top off is exactly what you do to change the governor spring. It isn't ultra hard, just make sure you back out the full power screw to make life a lot easier upon re-assembly.
The following was supplied by Pastor Bob
Governor Spring Installation Instructions
I have put together a general instruction set for installing the governor spring in our VE pumps. Would those who have done it please read it thru carefully and let me know what I've missed, put in by mistake, described wrong or anything else. I want this to be as complete as possible because the "nervous factor" is fairly high on this mod... at least for most of us that is...
>>Installation of Governor Spring: Bosch #1-464-650-366 in the Bosch VE injection pump. The part should not be more than about 15-18$. (About the same in Can. $$ depending on dealer.)
This mod can be done with the pump on the truck.
There is some disassembly of the VE pump required to complete this modification.
Keeping the internals of the VE pump free from dirt/dust/debris is extremely important.
The following instructions may not be 100% complete since most of us, including me, are not pump tech's.
1) Mark current pump timing locations on pump and gear cover, then loosen pump and let drop towards the drivers fender.
2) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle arm/lever on the pump.
3) Remove the TPS, AFC cover and diaphram/cone from inside.
4) Mark/note position of all the screws such as idle, full fuel, high idle etc.
5) Remove the idle screw, full fuel screw and high idle screw. This is needed to access the 4 main allen screws that hold the pump top on. You may get away with leaving one or two of the above screws in.
6) The allen screws on the back (engine side) of the pump top can be hard to reach but you MUST have a good grip on them even if you need to tap/hammer the allen key down into the allen heads. You really DON'T want to break one off..
7) Remove the 4 allen screws.
The allen screw on the fender/front side of the pump (large 8mm) serves more than one purpose. It holds the throttle shaft in place, the spring(s) underneath such as the "breakover spring" and the head of this allen screw is were the TPS shaft rides, on the auto tranny equipped trucks. Once the screw is removed look down into the hole... you'll see a tiny slender black stem with a slot in it. This slot position is very important since it is the "index mark" for the throttle lever.
8) The allen screw noted comes off in the following order; allen screw, throttle lever arm, breakover spring, washer, (at this point you should see a flat plate with tick marks like a clock on it. Note the position of the slender black stem in relation to the tick marks. In most cases the slot in the stem will align with the second from bottom and second from top tick marks... kinda like 4:00 and 10:00 so to speak.)
Try to leave the lower spring, cup, mount in place. If you have to remove the entire assembly, pay attention to how the large spring is anchored on each end, and the relationship of the plastic "cup washers". Once you progress to removing the pump top, you will loose some fuel from inside the pump so have a drip pan below to catch the dribbles.
9) VERY CAREFULLY lift the pump top upward about 1 1/2" while looking at the back (firewall end)engine corner inside. You should see a slotted piece of metal with a what looks like a tophat w/tiny spring IN the slot (careful this puppy can jump out on you once you've removed the governor spring attached to it and, an extra pair of hands makes this part easier). On the inside END of the tophat is the one end of the gov. spring. Using forceps or tiny needle nose pliers, carefully unhook the spring from the end of the tophat.
10) Turn pump top over and remove the other end of the gov. spring from under the pump top. At this point we need to go back to the "guide pin" that pops out inside the AFC housing... you had to push it into it's hole to get the diaphram out.... what you need to do, before putting the top of the pump back on is wiggle the little lever on the inside of the pump to push the guide pin back out into the diaphram hole. This helped me get the top of the pump back on without getting "hung up". Do what works for you.
11) Attach one end of the new gov spring to the underside of the pump top, and very carefully attach the other end to the same spot on the tophat. (don't worry, you can't put the spring in the wrong place, just be slow and careful.) Turn the pump top over and roughly set the shaft with the index slot in it.... that assures the internal lever with the spring is in the right location for proper rotation.
12) Lower the pump top back down in place, shifting it slightly to seat it in place.
13) Check your index marks as you begin the reverse process of assembly. (Most mistakes are done here so take your time)
14) Tighten the allen screws to "just right ft/lbs torque" (sorry I don't have torque specs for this but you should be able to tighten by feel.)
15) Reverse the proccess of dissasembly and tighten as you go.
16) Once all the screws, AFC, housing,TPS, etc are in place, return pump to timing marks you made on the pump body/gear case and tighten it down. Here you'll have to get as close as possible to original screw positions for your idle, high idle, full fuel etc.
When you've gone over everything 3 or 4 times to make sure you've done everything, you're ready to try a start up and idle.
**NOTE** Remove the air inlet tube from the turbo inlet and move to the side. Have an emergency board or whatever to cover the turbo inlet in case of runaway condition. BTW, using your hand could qualify you for the handicap award and being named 3 finger Dave.
A second set of hands helps here too, while you activate the manual shutdown lever (in case of runaway) your help can cover the front of the turbo to starve the engine of air)
17) Start the truck..... hope it keeps running. It may need several tries due to fuel loss from removing the pump top.
It should pretty much start right up.. it may stumble and clear up OR, you'll have to re-prime using the lift pump handle or plugging the filler spout with a rag and shooting compressed air in with a nozzle/air hose to force fuel thru to the pump. (If you do it this way, make sure someone is watching the low pressure bleed screw on the side of the block and tighten it when you get a steady stream of fuel from it.)
If it starts with some throttle but will not remain running at idle, it mat be necessary to re-index the throttle lever shaft to the index mark.
At this point it should be running. Try 'burping' the throttle a few times. Make sure that the engine returns to idle promptly as it did before the spring change. If it lingers at higher RPM and slowly drops down, take that as a sign of being close to runaway condition. Back out the full fuel screw 1/4 ~ 1/2 turn, restart and try again. I also recommend running your high idle screw in a fair bit to make sure you can "work up to" you intended high idle setting and avoid RPM flare. You should be able to reset your low idle, full fuel, etc without too much trouble.
Take a test drive at this point and watch your EGT's, idle, etc.
serious Rest in Peace, he was a great contribution to the world we all know and participate in!
Anyway, you can push the fueling pin that the diapham pin is held up on by rotating the diaphram. ***Mark its location to the housing** and specifically where the dot on the diapham is before you twist it (its rotation dictates how much fuel you get)!
There is a lip in the bottom of the pin/diagphram unit that it is hung up on. No need to remove the pump to free up the pin. Once you rotate it so you can easily remove the diaphram/pin, you pull the throttle linkage off (also paying close attnetion to how it was set up. There is a removable nut/cap that gives you access to the back side of the fueling pin. Shoot some lubricant/oil in the diaphram pin hole and move the actual fueling pin back and forth back and forth several dozen times until it moves freely again. Just breaking off light buildup on it. Put it all back together and you are good to go. When you see the diaphram/pin, you will see there is a cam/lobe cut into the bottom of it. Thisi s what dictates the fueling of the pump. The farther out the fueling pin (that rests on the cam, and is pushed in with boost) the more fuel you have.
The most important thing is **mark everything** (even take photos) before you remove/adjust the diaphram pin. Again, its rotation dictates your fuel settings.