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Fte- i can see this especially with guys that dont change out trans or axles. I have talked to many flatfender guys about their swaps. Its not so much lack of power but lack of gearing. A 3 speed with 5.39 gears and no OD make for a 40mph on the governor.

These jeeps are so lite with high gearing its hard to put much load on the motor with 200+ft lbs torque.

The flat fender guys that love it are the guys that have swapped axles, stretched and run a 5 speed.

I have talked with plenty of guys from both sides and actually talking to a gentlemen about purchasing his flat fender with a kubota that he isnt happy with, hisbhas a t98 and warn OD and still limited to about 50mph. I would strech and change axles most likely

Ken
 
Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
I probably shouldn't have said it that way.... I hate it when people do that about my favorite engines.....haha! I haven't driven one.... im just looking at cost and numbers on paper and i have talked to a few guys that have driven/swapped them. "seat of pants" performance may be way better. But i wouldn't know. SPMachining has a point though.... they still wont go any faster unless gearing or something else changes.... and my TDI motor will fall under the same problem. I plan on running a saturn overdrive in this jeep too.... and this engine should be able to handle it.....as the kubota would too I imagine. What does that kubota run RPM wise?
 
The kubota can put out alot more then that! They are rpm limited 3k is generally max, like to cruise at 1800.

A couple have been dynoed and one on the site put down 98hp and 290+ ft lbs to the wheels in a ranger, i believe by 2k rpm.

Your tdi will rev higher and be happier there.

Stock carrier NA makes 39hp and 115 ft lbs.

With the kubota you esentailly 2x your go devil's HP and 3x the torque.

But sitting on the governor sucks.

Ken
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Ken, Wow thats good power/tq!


Well the moment has finally come..... Its kinda bitter sweet. I have been really excited to bolt everything up, but also have been stressed about the starter/turbo clearance. Im kinda hinging the project of this.



So.....My starter came and i milled down the side of my engine plate where the started goes so I could test fit it. It was really close to the turbo so I drilled an extra set of holes in the clocking ring to swing the motor down farther away from the turbo. Its better but still close. The starter is cast into the bell housing so Im kinda stuck with it there. I think I can get creative with an elbow to make the down pipe go upward a few inches to give the starter extra room, but Im worried its going to cook the starter. Maybe i can make some sort of heat shield/header wrap, turbo cover or something. What are your thoughts? Ive heard some guys that do toyota truck tdi swaps often have starter clearance issues. Im not sure if its a problem or just an inconvenience.





 
I am not very knowledgable on VW but can you flip the maniold? Or is this manifold and turbo housing one piece?


:::just looked at pictures above again and saw the manifold is 1 piece. Can you find a different manifold and turbo setup??::::


I bet with a heat shield and or a heat wrap your starter should be okay. Especially if you turn that 90* elbow upward and away
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Engine/Trans is all bolted together and sitting in the frame. No motor mounts yet but getting there. You may want to look away is you get squeamish around firewall cutting. :) I had to make room for the vacuum pump and water outlet on the back of the head. I will make a nice box that will close it all up, and paint it to match. I hooked up the battery and cranked it over a second or two with the starter to make sure engagement was good. It turned over just fine. I cranked it in gear with the clutch depressed to make sure it would release. So far so good. Now time to fix the firewall, make motor mounts, and plumb everything.














 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
BIG OBSTACLES
1) steering box/oil filter clearance
2) water outlet clearance on the back of the head.
3) Exhaust downpipe



LITTLE ANNOYANCES
1) Motor mounts
2) Box in firewall
4) run coolant lines
5) run fuel lines
6) inner cooler
7) oil cooler
8) wiring
9) Plumb return line to fuel tank


Im sure there will be more these are just the ones that come to mind.....easy peasy right? hhaha!
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I started messing around with making my own relocation plate.... I only have like an 1" of clearance. I may try to move my drivetrain over at least 1/2 or so. Because when the engine rocks i dont want it to hit the plate.







Replacing this

 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Ive made some progress over the past few days.... Made my motor mounts and modified my water neck so it exits towards the passenger side. It was pretty much pointing right at the brake pedal. I also shorted it some so it doesnt stick out as far. The engine is now bolted in and supported in the frame! Waiting on shipping of a bunch of fittings and stuff for my oil system. My wiring harness is also in the works. I am sticking with the electronically controlled injection pump. Mechanical would be simpler but the electronic pump does have some advantages. One of the things I love about this engine is how responsive the turbo is and a lot of that had to do with the variable geometry turbo. That is controlled via vacuum solenoid Also being able to tune electronically is a huge plus to me. So I will have some wiring and an ECU but it will be a stripped down minimalist harness.













 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Made a little progress... Worked on the oil system. Finished my oil filter relocation plate. Figured out my turbo oil feed hookup, oil pressure guage, and VW oil pressure sensor. I need to work on the oil filter and cooler mount. Im still waiting on my hoses and a few more fittings. Also need to order a fuel filter.









Since I have no need for the willys timing mark cover now.... I turned it into a key chain. Willy on one side. VW on the other.



 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Well after about 20 hours of googling and online research I decided on a radiator for my tdi swap. I went with a 1986 Ford bronco II (2.9L) it was the right size and had the in/out on the correct side for my application. I will have to lower my mount about 1” to clear the hood, but my mounts aren’t original anyway so it’s not a big deal. I got this at advanced auto. With the online promo they are running right now it cast me $72 and it was in stock.








 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Fitted the rest of the front end temporarily fitted before I paint it. That way I dont have to hack into fresh paint......again! Im trying to figure out how I want route/install my intercooler and piping. I also need to mount my oil cooler/ filter and fuel filter....so much to do!!!! haha!









 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Oil & Fuel system is almost wrapped up. (The fram filter is just for mock up, it was the only one I had on hand) I still need to run my fuel return line and put some straps on the the hoses. Then its on to the coolant system and wiring.











 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I moved on to the intake for something different. Since the TDI has a MAF sensor and they cannot be exposed to any oil and I wanted the stock look. lol ;) I decided to do a paper filter conversion and integrate the VW maf sensor into the willys housing. I think it turned out pretty good!











 
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