[Squibb]

My alternater locked up yesterday wilst tooling down the road, smoking and screaming, under the hood of my p30. Only a mile and a half from home, I cut the $45 cummins belt I just purchased last week, and crippled home.

I know that the alt is chevy of some sort, but if I go to advance or napa, they look at me like I have some sort of alien space ship. Their computers dont have the elusive p30, or dont go back far enough for the 79 chevy one ton.

I am stuck in new orleans, needing my injecter pump rebuilt or replaced and the alternator replaced.

And thanks to this sight, and a thread I read about the crank end play on the bt, I now understand why the belt on the front doesnt touch anything, but is always showing that something is eating away at the side near the engine.
In addition to the clutch just not letting me get it in gear when the engine is warm!!!

Just had a shop in ohio put a new clutch and tranny in, they found the throwout torn to shreds, and had no idea why!!

So, anyone know what I ask for at the parts place for a new alternator? I would like one with a little more juice and of course cheap as possible for now.

Ps. I havent checked but will the oil pan come off easy in my p30 frito bt?

 

[BobS]

You need to find a shop that does alternator and starter rebuilding. The only unique thing about the alternator is the diameter and offset of the pulley. The early alternators were the Delco SI series and the newer ones were Delco CS series. The SI series has a thin metal strip from the stator showing through between the aluminum case halves and is easy and cheap to rebuild or service. The newer CS series has a wider portion of the stator (usually painted black) showing between the case halves and is more expensive and a real pain in the butt to service. A good rebuilder can simply swap your pulley over to a rebuilt unit and you should be good to go. The cheaper and easier to service SI can be found up to around 140 amps. I assembled one from parts a few years ago.

 

[mooktank]

I got mine from i beleive an 89 camaro with A/C. Do a search for stock apps of the delco 12si.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

the harness is slightly different and you end up getting a CS model alternator instead of what you already have (a SI) model, so the harness is slightly different (lots of alternator shops sell adapter harnesses), but a '94 Chevy Caprice alternator bolts right on and is 140 amp, if you have the correct harness. That said some people have been posting part numbers for a 22si 150 amp alternator for about the same price from some of the big rig dealers and I think that is the ticket if you ask me, and reuses the same harness from the bread truck... And is rebuildable etc etc.,..

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Also if searching, all the of the 4BT alternators I have seen are "180" apart ears, in that the ears are 180 degree opposite from each other. there are all sorts of ear placements for both SI and CS Delco/GM alternators.. So make sure you purchase the correct one...

 

[Squibb]

Thanks everyone, I will prolly go with the 140 amp alt. from the caprice!


Hey, dieselcruiserhead, will I have to change the pully or anything like that?

 

[matt2matt2]

cheap cs144

If you want a cheap but good late model cs144 from the junk yard for about $20 then listen up. You know those ugly chevy minivans, the Lumina APV, OLDS Silhouette, Pontiac Trans Sport, well they are filling up the junk yards. Now find one from 92-94 with the 3.8 V-6 and REAR A/C. It will have the cs-144. Non-rear a/c has the cs-130
The early cs alternators were the ones that had the rear bearing problems, but the problems were fixed by the 90's.
MAKE SHURE THAT YOU GRAB THE WIREING PLUG/HARNESS when you get the alt. or you will have problems and you won't figure it out.
Matthew