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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Alternator bracket done. Placement, CAD, bracket and finished product.

Knowing how hard it was for me to do those four simple steps, really puts in perspective how cool stuff fellow members are doing and how easy they make it look.

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Intercooler in core support. Shoulda, woulda, coulda gone bigger. Just saving cents, still rated above the ballpark 800cfm my setup will require.

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Core support in truck with original 6.2 rad and shroud, I’m happy so far.

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Is there a minimum PS fluid reservoir volume that has been found to work?

Bought this, not sure if it’s too small. Advertised to hold approx 1L, just over a qt.

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Not final placement, just mocking it up.
 

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Looks good, for your turbo caps I used blanking plugs but left the rubber seals out so they wouldn't burn/melt. Intercooler is big enough, the CFM ratings for those are all BS anyway. Really good job making the original shroud line up.

PS volume looks fine too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Funny you should ask that, today I came to work early to solve that piece of the puzzle.

So, PO was running an Hx30w turbo. When he sold me the motor he was kind enough to leave the flexible metal pipe he was using as a drain.

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Unfortunately for me, the Holset flange bolt pattern is slightly different from the Volvo. I chose to drill and tap for a 3/8 bolt to fill in the holes and then redrill for my application. Bolt stubs are held in with red locktite.

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Just for giggles, oil drain flanges, close but don’t match. Left to right, Holset, Volvo, 4bd2t OEM

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Drain line to block.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
A couple of pics sharing some progress.

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Changed from the larger 6.2 rad and shroud to smaller 350 version, helped packaging the intercooler pipes. Spent some time looking for proper rad hoses and avoid using the one that shows I have stock in a hose clamp factory.

Second attempt at a suitable air filter housing, junkyard nearest to me has mostly Fords, so that what I’m using.

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Oil pressure and coolant sensors are in, would like to still have dummy lights on dash so working on that now. But I’m running out of excuses to try and fire her off…

Good day to all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
You'll gain boost response with a bigger intake pipe. Basically a bigger pipe acts as a reservoir so it can pull more air in a surge without having to accelerate airflow along the entire pipe. See if you can match diameter with that air-filter outlet.
Understood and I’ll make that happen.

May I ask what your opinion is of what I have set up on the other side of the air filter intake?

It’s an ARB snorkel for 80 series Land Cruiser, modified to fit my needs. Put there to provide fresh air to the motor, no intention of deep water fording or mudding. If the snorkel isn’t more of restriction than benefit, I’d eventually like to swap out the scoop for a Donaldson pre filter top.

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And Mr. Dougal, thank you for being so generous with your time and knowledge to this and other forums. Turbo choice and installation, thread pitch for water inlet and oil sensor, are a few items that you’ve inadvertently helped me with during this particular project by reading past threads. That’s not counting help with the other rebuild as well.

If you ever come over this way, I’d like to buy you food and drink in a non romantic fashion.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
And the original goal this weekend, use what I had to make an exhaust system. The section closest to the firewall got wrapped in exhaust heat shielding tape.

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Hangs a little low in the back, but it will work for initial test drives I think.

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Compressor plumbing corrected, thanks again Mitchb. (y)

Dougal, stepped up intake pipe to 3”. Can’t go larger due to clearance issues. I will remember what you said and look into oval pipe when the piggy bank recovers.
3" will work well and that looks good. Oval pipe can be made with a round pipe and a hammer, vice or press. 4" round could be flattened to about 3" height and almost 5" wide.
 
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