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Another K30 with a 4bd1t... eventually.

9522 Views 134 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  joshuak
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Greetings folks,

Newbie here, both to the forum and to motors swaps. I wanted to start a thread to share a project I'm working on and hopefully get some pointers.

So, this:

129063

In this:

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Thank you for taking the time to answer and taking advantage of your attention, a few more questions.

In your opinion is that too much? Do you think I should work on trying to lower that amount of vacuum? Would it be worth it to put the informer pre filter see to see if I should upsize air intake pipe? And if that is decent try a different filter?

Edit: the only reference online I’ve found is from Donaldson for their filter minder and they have that amount of vacuum when the filter has seen approx 85k miles, lol. Not new.

Filter Minder® - Typical Air Filter Restriction Readings
3kPa isn't too much for now. It's 3% of atmospheric pressure, 0.9 inches of mercury. It would certainly be interesting to see what the pressure drop from the snorkle is though. I'd get a second informer and leave it in.

Get everything running first. Polish later.
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Pre and post filter (right and left respectively). Looks like snorkel is the culprit.

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Dougal going to follow your suggestion, focus on getting it running and go from there.

Speaking of getting it running, it shut off twice on my most recent trip around the block. Both times going along fine, then stutters, then off. Starts up easily afterwards.

In the driveway I was able to get this video, although here after stuttering when I rev it up it doesn’t shut off.

October 9, 2022

Am I correct in looking at the fuel system first? Quantity/quality kind of a thing? Thinking of draining the fuel tank and replacing the fuel filter. Filter is new, but still have old fuel in the tank. I’ve already cleaned the screen at the IP.
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Am I correct in looking at the fuel system first? Quantity/quality kind of a thing? Thinking of draining the fuel tank and replacing the fuel filter. Filter is new, but still have old fuel in the tank. I’ve already cleaned the screen at the IP.
I have not re-read your previous posts. Question: Do you have the original fuel sock on the fuel pickup tube? Diesel fuel is known to plug-up thes gasoline fuel socks.

Russ
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Hi Russ, truck was originally a 6.2 diesel and the in tank sock was replaced along with a new tank 5 years ago.
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Draining the fuel tank, a new filter and fresh fuel seems to have done the trick. Put a few miles on her this afternoon and all went well.

So, the Max fuel screw has been adjusted previously on this motor and I’m wondering if something would be gained by adjusting it.

A couple questions, what gauges would you folks recommend having for tuning purposes and how to go about it?

I live at sea level and there are no decent grades to use test hills so to speak, Lots of flat country roads though. Same stretch 0-60 pulls? Add/tow a heavy load and same stretch 0-60 pulls?

Currently, if I catch a gear (4-5) at low rpm and try to add fuel to power through egt’s get hot quick (1200F) and I feel the need to back off, she cools off and then ease back into it.
Heavy towing is a great way to load them for tuning. 1200F isn't a problem as long as your reading is accurate and pre-turbo. I've run mine at 750C (1380F) for minutes at a time with no issues and hotter intermittently.

What's your turbo and intercooler setup?

The fuel screw limits fuel but so can the rack limiter which is found at the front of the pump. It seems like they hit the front rack limiter at maybe twice the stock fuelling then to get the last third you've gotta adjust the limiter.
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Thank you for your answer Sr.

EGT probe is located pre turbo, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

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Turbo is a TD04HC-19T (genuine imitation I think), I won’t share CFM ratings for the intercooler because you’ve warned me before about that being rubbish.:)

Pics of turbo, IC, air pipes and apparently Baldy volunteered too.

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Thank you for your answer Sr.

EGT probe is located pre turbo, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

View attachment 134579

Turbo is a TD04HC-19T (genuine imitation I think), I won’t share CFM ratings for the intercooler because you’ve warned me before about that being rubbish.:)

Pics of turbo, IC, air pipes and apparently Baldy volunteered too.

View attachment 134578

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View attachment 134583
That turbo, is without question a good choice...IMO. What are the specs on that filter?
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Set your wastegate to ~25psi and go for it.
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That turbo, is without question a good choice...IMO…
Easy to chose the right path when someone has walked down it before and shared the way.

4BD1T Turbo Sizing and Performance Prediction.

What are the specs on that filter?
Air filter on the inner fender well? Not sure of CFMs or particulate size, came out of a 2004 F250. They were plentiful when I went looking at the JY.

Set your wastegate to ~25psi and go for it.
Thank you, I’m on it. (y) Searching for a boost gauge now.
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Unfortunately the hosting I was using got nuked so all the pics from the Turbo Sizing and Performance Prediction thread got canned. I've still got many of them but we know more now.
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…I've still got many of them but we know more now.
Pictures or not, I only know because I was told. thank you.

And speaking of knowing because I was told, on the turbo am I correct in thinking that the blue line should be hooked up with a hose and the diverter valve (red x) should be removed and that space plated off?

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Yep that airflow recirc valve isn't needed for diesels.
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Yep that airflow recirc valve isn't needed for diesels.
Because they lack a throttle plate, correct...
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Because they lack a throttle plate, correct...
Yes. I think those recirc valve TD04's were a volvo thing. You can get other compressor covers without them.
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Yes. I think those recirc valve TD04's were a volvo thing. You can get other compressor covers without them.
Yep, strictly Volvo.
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Drilled and tapped the manifold for a boost gauge.

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Rookie numbers, lol.

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Got a bit higher maybe 8psi when EGTs where closer to 650c. Need to read about adjusting wastegates.

Forgive the loose plug and missing block off plate, it is a construction zone.
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Shortened the waste gate rod about 3/8” (1cm). Test drive showed an increase of a couple psi, so went from 8 to 10 psi. Pretty far away from the recommended 25. I double checked the hose clamps, nothing was loose.

Am I doing it wrong or is there something else I can do? I assume there is more there.

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Locking clip was put back on after the pic.
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Shortened the waste gate rod about 3/8” (1cm). Test drive showed an increase of a couple psi, so went from 8 to 10 psi. Pretty far away from the recommended 25. I double checked the hose clamps, nothing was loose.

Am I doing it wrong or is there something else I can do? I assume there is more there.

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Locking clip was put back on after the pic.
You sure the air filter is not the culprit? Does gate close completely? Have you applied pressure to the gate (engine off) to test its limits?
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