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Another K30 with a 4bd1t... eventually.

9522 Views 134 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  joshuak
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Greetings folks,

Newbie here, both to the forum and to motors swaps. I wanted to start a thread to share a project I'm working on and hopefully get some pointers.

So, this:

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In this:

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Hi Subrutus,

You sure the air filter is not the culprit?…
No, I’m not. I have a Donaldson Informer before and after the filter and it seems like most of the restriction is caused by the snorkel piping/Top Spin (13psi) and the filter only added a couple more psi if that (15psi).

Dougal suggested that it wasn’t terrible and that I should work on getting it running and then polish later.


…Does gate close completely? Have you applied pressure to the gate (engine off) to test its limits?
I don’t know and have never done so. How do I go about it? Remove the hose from compressor side and apply pressure to the waste gate to verify at what PSI it opens?

Thanks for the help.
The spring itself, inside the wastegate, may need to be replaced. If you can pop the small boost hose off and use a bike pump to test what psi it opens at, that will tell you a lot. Some have had to replace with the higher kinigawa (spelling?) springs.
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If I’m doing this right, this shows the waste gate spring is holding fine and I should look elsewhere for lack of boost correct?

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Edit: I think I’m doing it wrong. I should apply pressure to the waste gate as I’m doing, but now check for play in the rod correct?
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but my reading here on the site pushed me towards making the liquid filled motor mounts to work.
Could you lead me to which liquid mounts you went with and how well they have worked? Thank you!!
Could you lead me to which liquid mounts you went with and how well they have worked?
Sure thing! Happy with mounts so far, smooth at idle and very little vibration felt during start up and shut down.

Having said that. If my budget were unlimited, I probably would have looked at Lord brand as opposed to Anchor.


*edit rockauto says out of stock, but there available elsewhere.
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Thank you!!! Really appreciate the insight. This thread as been really helpful with planning my own swap. Thanks for documenting
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Thank you!!! Really appreciate the insight. This thread as been really helpful with planning my own swap. Thanks for documenting
Very welcome! Knowledge base on this forum and their willingness to help is awesome. I know it’s helped me immensely.

I’m following and cheering you on from afar as you stab that motor in the troopy. I hope to add my attempt at putting one in a 60 series next year. Just need to wrap up the motor rebuild first, lol.
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Well crud, looks like the Anchor motor mount on the PS has dropped 3/4”… :(. I have a replacement coming and I guess I’ll reach out to Parker Lord see if they have a similar replacement, hopefully I don’t have to redo my brackets.

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Also, before I realized the failed motor mount I had started test driving it again and have been unable to get the motor up to operating temperature. After a few miles it starts coughing, sputtering and shuts off. After waiting it will start right up and keep going until it doesn’t again. Starts right up and idles well when cold.

Valve lash on the rocker arms is proper, double checked that. No excessive smoke when starting or running, no weird noises either.

Time for IP rebuild?
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Id be willing to bet its either fuel pump by the primer button or clogged fuel filter. Unless there is something in the fuel tank clogging it, had that issue on another mechanical diesel.
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Id be willing to bet its either fuel pump by the primer button or clogged fuel filter. Unless there is something in the fuel tank clogging it, had that issue on another mechanical diesel.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

Mechanical Fuel pump, I’ve cleaned the screen at the banjo bolt a couple of time. First time I removed debris, nothing the next time. Can’t imagine that would be heat/mileage dependent. I’ve had to pull over twice in the exact same spot 10 miles or so away from home, amongst other spots lol.

I guess I could add a pressure gauge.

Fuel filter, exact same thing was happening on the test drives before I parked it for Winter and I drained the fuel tank, replaced fuel filter and put fresh fuel in.

The little diesel experience I have is with the 6.2 diesel and there’s a trick where you pour some cool water on the IP if you have a run/no run condition that supposedly tells you that tolerances (plunger, head, etc) need adjusting. Aka IP rebuild.
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Thanks for sharing your experience.

Mechanical Fuel pump, I’ve cleaned the screen at the banjo bolt a couple of time. First time I removed debris, nothing the next time. Can’t imagine that would be heat/mileage dependent. I’ve had to pull over twice in the exact same spot 10 miles or so away from home, amongst other spots lol.

I guess I could add a pressure gauge.

Fuel filter, exact same thing was happening on the test drives before I parked it for Winter and I drained the fuel tank, replaced fuel filter and put fresh fuel in.

The little diesel experience I have is with the 6.2 diesel and there’s a trick where you pour some cool water on the IP if you have a run/no run condition that supposedly tells you that tolerances (plunger, head, etc) need adjusting. Aka IP rebuild.
Perhaps, its a tank venting issue...seems to be, since you mention flow failure twice around the same spot on the road.
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Perhaps, its a tank venting issue...seems to be, since you mention flow failure twice around the same spot on the road.
Great suggestion thank you. I “think” the cap is vented but a mud dubber could have sealed that up. I will remove and try again.

Goofy I know, but one of my options for road test is 10 mile loop and twice within 50’ of each other I’ve had to pull over and play the wait game.
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Got my replacement motor mount, confirmed the mount on the PS has dropped 3/4”. New motor mount has visible flaws in the rubber. Better than what’s installed currently but for how long?

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I’ve exchanged a couple emails with folks from Parker Lord, really hoping for something else similar. Going OEM with solid rubber is always an option. We’ll see, said the blind man.
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Great suggestion thank you. I “think” the cap is vented but a mud dubber could have sealed that up. I will remove and try again.

Goofy I know, but one of my options for road test is 10 mile loop and twice within 50’ of each other I’ve had to pull over and play the wait game.
Let us know, it is many times I run into issues and simply look past it, then wonder why I didn't dig deeper...in my case its old timers taking over.
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Understood and will do so.

I’ll take that over removing the IP, getting it rebuilt and back in which I think is my next step for lack of better idea.

Just following Manuel’s troubleshooting tree, using lack of power as a symptom..

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I vote for the pressure gauge. It’ll help you diagnose this and any future problems like gelled fuel, clogged lines or old lines letting in air as well as the state of your fuel filters.
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I vote for the pressure gauge. It’ll help you diagnose this and any future problems like gelled fuel, clogged lines or old lines letting in air as well as the state of your fuel filters.
Preference or suggestion as to where it would be most beneficial to locate?

Fore and aft of the fuel filter? After the IP?
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Aft of the fuel filter

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On my 4bt, I drilled and brazed a tube on the output banjo bolt of the fuel filter housing. That way, I know the pressure of the fuel going to the injector pump. Installation did NOT get written up in my build thread.
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👆🏻Yes, that’s the spot. Then you know what is being delivered to the injector pump.
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Fuel pressure gauge installed. Thank you for the picture Russ.

Fuel snubber to hose to sensor mounted on frame rail.

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Gauge at idle.

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Have to wait for test drives until next week, hoping to add a water/fuel separator by then.

In the meantime, Is this too much blowby?

Too much blow by?
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