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Discussion Starter #1
Got a new question got 75 dodge w100 with Dana 44's up front and 8 1/4 rear end (3.55's)
Will dana 44 and 8 1/4 survive on a 4bt?
 

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I would say it would provided you retain the factory size tires and keep it under 140 horsepower.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My driving style is just daily driver and mild off road use. Of course I'm planning on rebuilding. But id like to reuse what I can. Otherwise I'll look for a dana 60 front and rear.
 

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Dana 44 should be just fine with daily driver and mild off road use imo. I'm not too familiar with your rear axle though.
 

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dana 44 has lots of build up stuff available---next up over the 8.25 would be an 8.75 and they are harder to find---stronger yet would be a 9.25 from a dodge 1/2 ton truck--the limited slip has a better rating than the open style----watch for a set of 1st gen cummins axles for down the road....
 

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I have 79 W150 with 8 lug dana 44 and 8 lug 9 1/4 . I use in for hunting and farm use . Most on road miles . No issues . Nothing is built that someone can not destroy it . Maintenance and normal driving it will serve many miles . Not sure if you have a drive flange axle of lockouts on a 75 . I have everything from knucle out to convert driveflange to lockouts if needed . PM me
 

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Got a new question got 75 dodge w100 with Dana 44's up front and 8 1/4 rear end (3.55's)
Will dana 44 and 8 1/4 survive on a 4bt?
I think the 75s had a Dana 44 with a unit hub, if the truck was a full-time 4x4, which was common for mid 70s Dodge. They also used a small 4.5 X 5 lug pattern. If you keep the tires in the stock size range, you shouldn't have a problem. Go bigger or get crazy on the go pedal and you'll be replacing parts. Fortunately Dana axles are common and have huge aftermarket support. Ideally, it would be better to swap to a Dana 60, after all, they are bigger overall and that means generally more strength. However they can be harder to find and cost a bit more to purchase than another 44. In the absence of a Dana 60, you can upgrade a Dana 44. It won't be cheap. It could even be more expensive to upgrade the 44 than replace it with a 60, but if theres a serious lack of 60s in your area, this maybe your best option. If you choose to upgrade, everything internal should be replaced with high quality parts and high strength parts if available. Stronger chrome moly shafts with a slight diameter increase, are available. Stronger u-joints also exist and these greatly increase durability of the guts. Aftermarket ring and pinions can also improve durability. Externally, you should consider a knuckle-out swap to get rid of the unit hubs and the smallish lug pattern. You can use a newer 5.5 X 5 pattern out of a newer 80s Dodge or Ford (Though you'll have to use the Ford brake caliper) or an 8 lug pattern off of a Dana 44HD, which gives you three extra lugs and slightly larger brakes. Best of all, any of these options will allow you to run lock out hubs. You should consider addressing the rear as well. It's usually not much stronger than the front Dana 44. If you change the front lug pattern, it's easy to swap axle shafts. The 5.5 X 5 lug pattern was common on later models of Dodge truck using the same axles and should swap. Dana 60 rears are easier to find than fronts, so if you do the knuckle-out swap using 8 lug hubs and rotors, a rear Dana 60 would be an ideal compliment, as they will both use the 8 lug pattern.

Ed
 

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A 44 with upgraded internals and 3/4 ton spindles/hubs would be more than needed for 99.5% of half ton rigs with a 4BT.
Quality aftermarket guts will hold the power and 3/4 ton spindles hubs and brakes will make it a 3,500# axle to break it you would need to be trying to brake it....my two cent's but I have one under the front of my '68 Crewcab and it's handled 4,600#on it for over 30,000 miles but that was all I got out of a set of new Timkin bearings so I'm looking for a 60 but they are too damn pricey for me so far I've been considering just adding 60 parts from the inner C's out but I'm upgrading mainly for load so 60 outers and cr-mo shafts should do the trick and a 44 will have ~ 1.5" more clearance under the pumpkin that a 60 for the same tire size.
 

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Bouncing or high horsepower then no D60+ for that type of abuse

Regular driving and mild wheeling D44 is perfectly adequate

A built D44 IS cheaper than rebuilding a stock D60 (if you account for cost of axle difference) stock Dana60 parts are ridiculously expensive

Many folks will scream at you that you NEED a Dana 60. By far most rigs do not need one. The more folks that seek D60 for their rigs (that may or may not need one) the more expensive they are for the Hardcore guys on 39's
 

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Bouncing or high horsepower then no D60+ for that type of abuse

Regular driving and mild wheeling D44 is perfectly adequate

A built D44 IS cheaper than rebuilding a stock D60 (if you account for cost of axle difference) stock Dana60 parts are ridiculously expensive

Many folks will scream at you that you NEED a Dana 60. By far most rigs do not need one. The more folks that seek D60 for their rigs (that may or may not need one) the more expensive they are for the Hardcore guys on 39's
Myself I would not want a Dana60 with tires under 39". Due to their shear size you lose too much ground clearance!
 
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