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Guess you'll have to crank up the lathe again. The spring retainers have to be the same so I guess the spring is a little fatter. Always a learning curve.
Yup, exactly. The 60# valve springs have just about a 1/10" thicker OD than the stock valve springs. Valve spring retainers are the same from what we can tell.

Almost there :D
 

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30 yrs using feeler gauges, never had any issues at all, never had to double check. If you dont think youre getting accurate readings with feeler gauges why not use some wire gauges? I dont know of any other cummins people/shops/builders having issues with adjusting valves. Maybe you have other issues in play?
 

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Been working out the method for using the dial indicator. Trying to remember how the drag should feel using feeler gauges came across an idea using micrometers. Set the micrometer to the same reading as the feeler gauge, drag the feeler gauge through the micrometer, thats how the drag should feel. To be sure, I used a inch and a metric micrometer for checking.
One problem I've had using the tool is getting a consistent reading, because push the rocker arm against the pedestal you get one reading, slide the rocker arm away from the pedestal you get another reading, which is correct? The feeler gauge gave me the answer. When you use a feeler gauge the rocker arm will slide to the side with the largest gap, So use the largest reading and your done. And I found that to you have to use more force than I though you'd have to when checking the reading. That is if my feel on the feeler gauge is correct.
That's why I like using a "go,no go" feeler gauge.
 

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30 yrs using feeler gauges, never had any issues at all, never had to double check. If you dont think youre getting accurate readings with feeler gauges why not use some wire gauges? I dont know of any other cummins people/shops/builders having issues with adjusting valves. Maybe you have other issues in play?
It's more personal preference than anything IMHO.

In addition to the thickness of the feeler gauge, you also have to have a good idea as to how much force it requires to slide the feeler in and out between the rocker arm and valve tip. I'm not saying it's rocket science, but it is a little more imprecise than I'd like (not just for a one-time set, but also for consistency across the motor). I like this method as it's easily measurable with a big gauge :)
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
30 yrs using feeler gauges, never had any issues at all, never had to double check. If you dont think youre getting accurate readings with feeler gauges why not use some wire gauges? I dont know of any other cummins people/shops/builders having issues with adjusting valves. Maybe you have other issues in play?
I think the performance minded tuners will see value of using this tool.
Feeler gauges will give a false reading if there is any wear/groves between the valve tip and rocker arm tip.
It's a project just to see if it works and I'm having fun doing it and passing the info on to the other members.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The fix for the 60 lb springs problem. Increase the OD, increase the ID but leave a ledge so that the tool stays centered on the valve spring collar. Reduce the skirt thickness to .095" thick. Should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Doing my PM before a trip to Colorado I checked the valve adjustment again. Using a feeler gauge found one a little loose, some just right and some too tight. The too tight ones concerned me the most. Using the tool the loose one was indeed loose, the too tight ones indicated just right. Pulled the rocker arm off the pedestal and found the wear I had suspected. The valve tool works!
Unless you have new rocker arms, a high milage engine is going to have wear on the tips that makes it impossibly to get the "correct" lash using a feeler gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Here are the dimension drawings. If you see anything missing let me know.
The dimensions on View A are double dimensioned, should have put brackets around them.
On Previous versions I had left the top 1 inch at the 1.75" but realized that it interfered with the manufacturing process. That's why you see the gouge in the bottom pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Good to know it works for you to.
The last one I made I lengthened the skirt, so it was almost impossible for the tool to get knocked off.
I'm thinking that I need to make one out of cast iron.
 

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Good to know it works for you to.
The last one I made I lengthened the skirt, so it was almost impossible for the tool to get knocked off.
I'm thinking that I need to make one out of cast iron.
Some extra heft would be perfect. I know I'm using a cheap dial indicator, but the spring pressure from the indicator would almost lift the whole tool off of the spring retainer. I could deal with that by moving the indicator up in the tool holder a bit more, but heft would make it even better :)
 

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No one has mentioned the two finger pull, that is using two fingers to "feel" the proper tension with the feeler gauge. Always works for me. You should always be able to repeat the same results on each set of valves with it.
 

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Sure, but this thread is about a neat tool that's almost fool-proof :D

One of the guys in my LC hobby suggested that a regular magnetic dial indicator holder set up on the motor somewhere, set up to indicate the rocker arm, would work just as well. I thought that was a good idea, although a bit more cumbersome, than this custom valve gapper!
 

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Good to know it works for you to.
The last one I made I lengthened the skirt, so it was almost impossible for the tool to get knocked off.
I'm thinking that I need to make one out of cast iron.
Think about aluminum bronze, it's as dense as cast iron and will finish as nice and whine it does oxidize it does it in a pleasing way;)
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
No one has mentioned the two finger pull, that is using two fingers to "feel" the proper tension with the feeler gauge. Always works for me. You should always be able to repeat the same results on each set of valves with it.
See the video in post #15

See post #27 as to why you can't always trust feeler gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Think about aluminum bronze, it's as dense as cast iron and will finish as nice and whine it does oxidize it does it in a pleasing way;)
A quick search shows it to be very pricey.
I could make it in two pieces, bottom half in aluminum and top part steel that holds the indicator.
 

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Look on ebay I've found shorter pieces for reasonable prices.
 
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