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Discussion Starter #1
Swapping my eaton fuller transmission for nv4500. The eaton is a solid transmission but just need the od drive so hopefully i can go 70 mph. Bought the complete swap from someone but noticed to late that it didn't have any bolts included. My question is, can I use the bolts from the eaton flywheel for the nv4500 flywheel to crankcase? Or would it be better to not use old bolt in general? Where is the best place to get the bolts besides going to a dealership? Just looking for some input on what other might have done when swapping trans.
 

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I went with the ARP bolts,Thoroughbred diesel had the best price shipped @$60.79
 

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You can get the stock Cummins bolts from Coleman Equipment Co. who is a Case industrial dealer. The Cummins part # is 3901395 for the bolts and 3900269 for the washers. The Case part # is J901395 for the bolts and J900269 for the washers. Coleman gets $4.00 ea for the bolts and $.74 ea for the washers. With postage you probably be looking at around $45.
 

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Yes, the flywheel bolts are probably the same. In general, you are not supposed to reuse the flywheel bolts. I'm sure some do but don't believe Cummins recommends it. Those bolts are ultra high grade not something common from most stores and a special length. By the way, the Case tractor bolts are Cummins. Many times I've gotten parts from Coleman and there was a Case label stuck on a Cummins parts bag. Must remember the B series engine was developed in combination with Case before it became a road use engine.
 

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I looked through QuickServe & the paper manual & there is no mention of replacing the bolts. Can you guys point to the TSB that recommends replacing the flywheel bolts?
 

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I too would like to know the answer to this. I assumed it was just good practice or for peace of mind but have to admit on many occasions I reuse the bolts if they look good and go in easily by hand till final torque. Never found a stretched one.
 

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I've read various opinions about this. Some say they've reused them several times and others state they are a torque to yield application and are not to be reused. Maybe need to PM CrewCab59. He's a Cummins dealer and should know the truth about those. No more than they cost I'd rather err on the side of replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A quote from ARP's site : "Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable?
Yes. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001” or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement."

arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I figure cummins bolts would be the same. Nothing to prove that, just common sense. So as long as the flywheel bolts meets the requirements above and are M12 x 1.25 x 32 about 1-1/4" in American... it should be fine.
 

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You mention the rod bolts. Cummins states that those are not to be reused in a rebuild. They used to be reusable but there were some issues with them coming loose and the policy changed on those. The ARP rod bolts are a bit higher grade than stock bolts so they might be reused. On flywheel bolts most might have those off once in a lifetime. Also, they are one of the 2 spots on the engine where red Loctite is recommended. The others are on the other end of the crank at the pulley/harmonic balancer.
 

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On flywheel bolts most might have those off once in a lifetime. Also, they are one of the 2 spots on the engine where red Loctite is recommended. The others are on the other end of the crank at the pulley/harmonic balancer.
Who recommends? Does a C rebuild manual recommend? Ive never ever used any type of loctite on a flywheel bolt or pulley/harmonic bolt. And I have never seen a loose one either, 4bt or 6bt. I would hesitate using red, I have had a hard enough time getting them off without "welding" them in. My 2c.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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I've looked at the Cummins Troubleshooting and Repair Manual for the B3.9 and B5.9 Series Engines Certification Levels 1991-1994 and the B Series Shop Manual Certification Levels 1991-1994.
For the cap screws (bolts) on the flywheel and the front vibration damper there is no mention of replaceing the cap screws or using any loctite product. Capscrews are to be inspected and only replaced if damaged.
I did see a recommended use of loctite on the transmission adapter bolts.
 

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Was 1994 the last certification on B series shop manuals? Engines were manufactured long after that time and Cummins constantly issued updates. Might want to find if there were additions to those manuals.
 

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I did see a recommended use of loctite on the transmission adapter bolts.
I do sometimes use blue on the pressure plate bolts. I havent on the adapter/bell housing bolts.
 

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Was 1994 the last certification on B series shop manuals? Engines were manufactured long after that time and Cummins constantly issued updates. Might want to find if there were additions to those manuals.
The first manual I listed is copyright 1999. I'll leave it up to you to prove my manuals have been updated.
 

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I learned long ago with two cycle motorcycles that blue loctite is your friend on anything that vibrates a lot and on my recent rebuild of the 4BT I used blue on everything except the exhaust/turbo related fasteners they all got copper anti seize. During my tour as a maintenance mechanic blue was SOP for everything where vibration might be an issue and mandatory for critical components on all applications better safe than sorry....$.02
 
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