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i have been involved in biogas research for a while but i am still fairly new to the mechanics of my 4bt and i am looking for any info to help me adjust the fuel/air input on the go i.e. warming up on 100% diesel then switching to 90% diesel plus wood gas. i am wondering where to port the biogas into the system, before turbo? after? or in the exhaust gas cooler. to my understanding at normal operating temperature the small amount of diesel fuel will vaporize in the bio gas mix under pressure giving lubrication to the top end of the motor(with good fuel additives like stanadyne) and still combust in my engine with no spark.it sounds like i will lose 25-35%over all power but whatever i have a muncie 3spd to a 14,000lb rockwell rear with a top speed of 45 mph. im not going anywhere fast! any existing threads or other info would be great. my plan is to trailer a biogas plant and run my step van plus whatever else i can convert. my briggs and stratton circa 70s motor running a 5500 watt generator is an easy conversion and i have two mint side by side, my propane fridge, heat oohooh the best one fire balls!!! with a little work we could see a woodgas revolution. and for any one that would like to turn this into a scientific discussion on the sustainability of biogas um were busy talking about engines. but i will share everything i know as this thread picks up speed.
 

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When running a diesel on a gaseous fuel, you'll need about 15% diesel to create the combustion event. The rest can be added into the air intake like you'd add propane. For woodgas, the btu is low. On a gasoline engine, the ratio is 1:1 woodgas:combustion air. Biogas is methane but typically only about 50% so it has more btu per cubic foot than woodgas but not as much as natural gas.

The rule of thumb is you'll lose about 35% of the rated horsepower on woodgas on an internal combustion engine. But, you can recover some of that lost power by increasing the compression ratio and advancing the timing. I don't know how much horsepower is lost on diesel.
 
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