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That port in your first photo is water also. That is often the sport for the sensor for the injection pump KSB for engines with the Bosch VE pump. You say there is no oil pressure gauge. That is very strange. Never seen an industrial engine that didn't have one. The sensor for that is normally on the block beside the lift pump. I would consider it very dangerous to operate any engine without an oil pressure gauge.
No oil pressure gauge is precisely why I bought & installed one with the sensor down under the inj pump , In line with the other one down there .
My instrument panel sits on the right , when driving , it is about 8x12 and everything in it is fed by “1” large plug , on the left there are 4 gauges, 1-water temp,, 2-oil temp, #3 fuel, #4 volt & tack on right , with a row of red lights across the top. I don’t remember right now if there was a low pressure light as one of them, check that out when I get it all back together. I suspect that that buzzer was a low oil pressure & like the new gauges I installed, when the key is turned on they show a red light for no oil press & a blue for the temp , so likewise the buzzer would sound until the key was turned to start , or the engine was running, & the other dummy that owned this tractor before me did not like that , would not be the first dumb thing I have found / shoddy repair from abuse.

I am shocked that no one has asked , “What is that ball valve above the duel fuel filter shown in the first picture back at entry #13 all about ?. Hello .
 

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Well, that valve doesn't look like a factory item from Cummins so I suspect it was added either by the end user company or some person. The one place I know of that port was used was on the engines with air compressors. It was the air inlet for the compressor. See photo below. The factory parts were just a fitting for a hose and no valve
 

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Well, that valve doesn't look like a factory item from Cummins so I suspect it was added either by the end user company or some person. The one place I know of that port was used was on the engines with air compressors. It was the air inlet for the compressor. See photo below. The factory parts were just a fitting for a hose and no valve
Took me a bit to realize what valve you were talking about .
The air inlet for the compressor, that would be stealing air from the manifold & robbing the motor . Wow
Yes that is a little Ball Valve “I” installed . The reason being that the frame is the fuel tank and when you go backwards up a hill if you have less than 1/4 tank your lift pump will suck air & the motor speeds up sputters & stalls , so I always have my front bucket ready to dig , so when this starts to happen I push the bucket down let it go ahead & dig in , lifting the front wheels of the ground, kind of leveling the tractor, pour in couple cans of fuel .
Now for the Ball valve , get the pliers out of the glove box ,along with the can of WD40 with the flip out needle , take the plug out of the end of the valve insert the needle , spray as I reach inside to the extra starter button I installed soon as it fires release the button continue to spay until running properly & presto back to work .
 

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So you're using that port to put starting fluid in the intake? Interesting because there were starting fluid setups on the Case industrial units as an option to the electric grid heater. When that port was used for the air compressor it probably doesn't rob much from the intake. It's just a source of clean air and when the turbo is up to speed it helps the compressor a little. The 6bt engines had the same setup.
 

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So you're using that port to put starting fluid in the intake? Interesting because there were starting fluid setups on the Case industrial units as an option to the electric grid heater. When that port was used for the air compressor it probably doesn't rob much from the intake. It's just a source of clean air and when the turbo is up to speed it helps the compressor a little. The 6bt engines had the same setup.
Yes I have read about the set up for a can of either , but I don’t have it , & the WD40 works great & you won’t give it to much , like you can do with Either !
An interesting experiment — hold a can of WD with the needle on, in one hand & a gas match with the other . Start a spray of WD & light the gas match at the end of the WD needle ,
Presto you have a blow torch / flame thrower.
 

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I can tell you that starting fluid setup used on the Case equipment was pretty expensive. Your solution is much cheaper. Another starting aid was the thermostart unit. Those are very cheap and were used on lots of diesel tractors. They were on Ford, Massey Furgeson, IHC, and others. Common item on Perkins diesel. Here's a little video showing how one works. That little plug can be found for $ -15 and you could make your own reservoir or Oliver Tractors had a nice metal one for $24.50 + $15.00 for the mounting bracket.
 

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I can tell you that starting fluid setup used on the Case equipment was pretty expensive. Your solution is much cheaper. Another starting aid was the thermostart unit. Those are very cheap and were used on lots of diesel tractors. They were on Ford, Massey Furgeson, IHC, and others. Common item on Perkins diesel. Here's a little video showing how one works. That little plug can be found for $ -15 and you could make your own reservoir or Oliver Tractors had a nice metal one for $24.50 + $15.00 for the mounting bracket.
Awesome...
 
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