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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like I'm gonna need to replace my IP pump. I don't want to bother having this one looked at or sent off. Trying to find an on road ones been proving quite difficult.
 

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Do you have the part number of your old one? There were lots of changes over the years. One of the on road CPL's had like 12 different injection pumps. Even though a pump may not be road rated, many times that may deal with smog control parts such as the KSB which road engines often had but off road didn't.
 

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I bought one from diesel tuff who is on this forum. Brand new and no core fee. Can't stomach giving someone my old pump AND paying an arm and a leg for another. Shipped super fast from somewhere in canada. Dropped it right in, no adjusting and vroooooom....no more stomach aches over leaky, questionable pump.
 

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What did it cost?

I seriously considered ordering a new VE pump from dieseltuff. In the end, I wanted to keep my shutoff lever and the dieseltuff pumps did not have a shutoff lever.

I had my pump rebuilt in Arizona, it was a 1986 model, that had a rebuild sticker on it. It had lots of worn out parts in it, and ended up only slightly cheaper than a new VE pump. No regrets, the engine fired off after the bleed, no problems encountered.

Russ
 

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I'll post up 2 phone numbers & you can call these 2 different place & see what they sell you one far.
... I don't a good bit of business with both places .
1st IS Triplett Injection Service waco texas 254-753-1114. It sold out this year but I believe it's still has the same name..
Other in on Abliene Texas DIESEL Service Abilene .325-673-7031...
...... Both have been good to me .
Buy one & send yours back in for core refund.
 

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Which parts exactly wear out in the pump to where the engine won't run? If I take a pump apart which parts should I inspect for excessive wear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd rather find one online because I have to use credit line to get this thing they are ungodly expensive and that's why I asked I couldn't find anything that wasn't in China and I'm not waiting 3 to 6 months like I did with my turbo wheel never again🙄
 

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Good luck. Ive seen a few new German Bosch fetching 1500/2k. 500 for a rebuild is cheap. Paid 1100 at Fresno Bosch for a 6 VE rebuild in 2018. That price was not uncommon at all. Any Bosch with the first 7 digits of 0 460 424 XXX can be dialed in to your CPL.

 

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OK. Your pump 3914924 is replaced by part 3917531 or Bosch part 0 460 424 055. That is apparently the pump from a CPL 0767 which is an early 4bt road engine. It has the wax motor type KSB which is obsolete. Rebuilt pumps sell for around $1700 without a core. If you replace it with a different pump you need to look at a few things. First off, is the KSB functional on your current pump? The way that one works is you must have power going to it from a temp control switch to turn it off. The switch turns on when the coolant reaches 160 deg F. If it is unplugged it is always on. That style KSB was only used about 2 years and changed to a solenoid type. Pumps with that type KSB need power to turn it on so if it is left unplugged then it is non functioning. It would use a different switch setup than the old type. Its switch runs on air temp in the intake manifold and turns off when a certain level is reached. The KSB is not a required item but mainly a smog device that helped with engine warm up by advancing the timing. You will find similar VE pumps without that so those would function just fine on your engine. Here is a listing for a brand new Bosch 0 460 424 257 pump that has the newer style KSB. These are coming out of China but are genuine. Price is $944.90 + $80 frt. NEW GENUINE Bosch 3960901 5445286 0460424257 CUMMINS 4BT 3.9 INJECTION PUMP | eBay If you wanted the KSB to function on that one you'd need a different sensor and wiring harness which is kind of pricey. If you didn't connect it up there would be no problem either. This gives you some info to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys for all this information. I tried to reseal mine well finish resealing it by taking the pump back out. It runs but something is really wrong and was very crusty inside. I knew this when I built the truck that this pump would need replaced. I will be getting one of those updated heads next year as it still has the 9mm head and want to change to the 7mm for peace of mind and the head gasket.
 

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People are often discouraged or upset about the cost of rebuilding an injection pump. Most of us have no clue what really goes into it. Here's a video you might watch part of that follows rebuilding of a fairly simple pump. He shows parts that are problems and won't be reused and others that get cleaned and used. This company, Area Diesel Service, is not a small operation in the back of someone's garage. They may have 10 million dollars worth of equipment or more and an incredible range of parts on hand. They do everything from basic rebuilds to custom work on injection pumps and turbos. Their technicians are top notch and don't work for $10 an hour. This guy says this particular pump will take him 4 hours to do. They even have separate rooms for rotary and inline pumps. The thing that intrigued me was this guy is never referring to manuals of data sheets. It's all in his head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well took the old pump back off come to find out the little thrust space at the back of the pump shifted when I assembled it and shattered. So can I get that and the head shaft? Is there a stranglehold on getting those parts to repair it myself the metal didn't get out of that area because of the shaft or cause any other damage?
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The main issue will be first identifying the Bosch part number for the parts you need and then finding a way to buy them. Bosch generally doesn't sell to individuals so you'll likely have to go through a rebuilder to get what you need. Here is a nice parts diagram from a company in the UK. Can you ID you parts in their diagram? This is very high resolution so it takes a while to load. You probably didn't realize that pump has about 400 parts. BOSCH VE interactive parts diagram - Diesel Injection Pumps
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Probably the head assembly and that thrust spacer that shaft sits on at minimum. I saw head assemblies online but not sure if they are all the same or not. The rollers and the other part that the thrust washer sits in with guide pin possibly but that's about it. Everything else was good now it torn down this far gonna clean it real good. If I can get the parts.
 

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That little piece is a shim that adjusts the stroke on the plunger. They are specifically sized to the pump during calibration (different thicknesses). There are some Bosch original training videos on youtube that are great if you want to really learn about your pump. The one on calibration will show this part. I would copy the links here but im an internet moron. I, like you, became obsessed with my VE pump. I feel that i have learned it pretty well after lots of reading and hands-on. There is also a Bosch factory publication on VE pumps that i down-loaded. My pump was water damaged and i took every piece apart, cleaned, replaced parts and put it back in service. I was able to get new cam rollers at a local bosch diesel shop. The rollers are all the same. Cam plates are all different by application. I browse ebay regularly and sometimes there are new old stock bosch parts. Keep in mind also that your pump can have excessive wear as in the plunger to bore tolerance or other close tolerances that you may not realize. Classic symptoms will be idle speed changing as the pump warms. I had one that idled high at start and after warming up, almost wouldnt idle. I finally bought a new untouched pump and love it while i still try to tinkerwith the others. Also, the parts are insane expensive. I think the camplate rollers were like $32 each. I ended up buying only one to replace one that was pitted bad. Pump has been running fine for probably 2 years now.
 
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