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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So on 10/13/2014 I started a thread named "1964 CJ6 scratch build", this last week Photobook changed their policies and held the photo's hostage with a $399/year ransom. So I'm starting a new thread, this first part is going to by primarily pictures to get everyone caught up.

So my project started out with 3 donor vehicles, a 1964 CJ6 sitting on a 1978 Ford Bronco frame (for part of the body and rear axle), a 1992 step van (for the 4bt), and a 1977 Wagoneer (for the front axle and steering box). Plus, parts from little bit of everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
By 10/13/14, I was starting to get a good start on the build. had the body off the frame wasn't hard it was only held on by a half dozen 5/16" carriage bolts, and starting to grind out the filler that had been put on there previously.
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Finding a lot of bad previous owner bodywork.
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Then on Thanksgiving Day when I was responding to an EMS call I slipped on a patch of ice and broke my humorous. And, really slowed down forward progress.
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On 5/16/2015 I finally got caught up from being laid-up all winter. Pulled my donor truck into town today, and I literally mean pulled! Finally got a battery in the truck to turn it over, fired it up and drove out of the field it was parked in and made it about 3/4 mile down the road. Not sure if the fuel gauge actually works might be out of fuel, lift pump might have gone south, or the fuel cut-off decided to take a dump. After dragging it 5 miles to town got to looking, motor was installed in 2010, truck was sold off 11/2013. The guy I bought it from only drove it home and parked it, I drove it from Ames to home and parked it (around 120 miles). Possibly not many miles on the motor. Found a sticker on the front of the head dated 11/12/2009, hoping it is a 7 mm head. I have not been able to get my head twisted around enough to read what the CPL is, hoping there is a tag on the timing cover. Thought when I drove it home might have an issue with the oil pressure bypass, the 100 psi gauge was pegged the entire time. Figured out today the gauge has a short in it, pegs as soon as the key is turned on!

Also found a NOS instrument cluster for the CJ.
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Also this week did finally come up with the Getrag NP205 and 8-6 bolt adapter I needed.
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By 6/2/2015 Getting closer to getting the motor out.
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On 6/12/2015 I pulled what was left of the bread truck into the shop and pulled the motor.
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On 7/10/2015 the next piece of the puzzle arrived today, a TDK CJ8 frame. Will be nice to work with clean rust free tubing. Will have to do a couple of modifications to the frame to fit the CJ6. The rear cross member will have to be cut free and moved forward to match the body length of the CJ6, and the rear 1" diameter shackle bushing sleeves will get cut out and replaced with 1.25" diameter to match the YJ springs I'm going to run. TDK runs full size tubing all the way down the frame, so the rear shackle mounts are welded into the frame rather than bolted on like the factory ones. When I replace the hat channels under the body I will put the new ones in the match the mounts on the CJ8 frame instead of cutting off what is one the frame.
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On 7/12/2015 I got around to cutting the passenger side tool box out today. Now I can get some accurate measurements for my replacement floor pans. Looks like the only thing I'm going to save is the trans hump and the tool box. Front floor pans look like they have at least 2 if not 3 generations of patches already, time to start over. Figuring on making new ones out of 14 gauge diamond tread steel.
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
5/29/2015 My youngest son Nic has graduated college and moved home till he finds work, he got bored today. Started in removing the spray can bed liner with a 7" grinder and a knotted wire brush, got quite a bit done. But, has found more work for me I was not planning on. Now with bed liner removed from the rear wheel houses looks like I'll be replacing those also. Since I'm not going for a correct restoration, think I'm actually going to use trailer fenders to make my own. Think if I do it right while it won't look correct will look good.
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8/9/2015 Finally starting on the real body work, finding more work as I go. The PO's advertisement sign patch and butchered A-pillar support has been cut out. Should have the rocker patch panel done today but, won't be able to weld it in until I get the material to make a replacement support lower. Wish it would not be so hard to put in a complete A-pillar support but, I'm afraid I would end up with a real mess if I tried.
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Patch panel is made and ready to weld in as soon as I get the steel to repair the A-pillar.
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8/24/205 Wasn't able to get the tub carried outside and didn't have enough sand for what I want to do, so I settled for messing with the trans covers to try out the new-to-me Harbor Freight sand blaster.
Bending my A-pillar lower the low tech way.
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First piece of new steel. only about 50 more to go!
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9/19/2015 Even a blind hog finds an ear of corn. Went to the Iowa All Breeds Jeep show today looking for rims. Ended up with a new in the box Centech complete CJ wiring harness for $200!
0/23/15 Even on vacation I'm looking for parts. Made a stop on the way home happened to be beside a truck parts place. Told the wife I was going to step inside for a couple minutes to look around. Got to talking to them and bought a used Cummins 6BT exhaust manifold for my 4BT I've been looking for. 45 minutes later I was back to to the car, and she was grumpy.
9/24/15 Got some done on the JEEP today, finished the passenger side rocker, and started on the firewall. Between the factory holes and the ones that the POs over the last 50 years had added.
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9/26/2015 Finished welding and grinding the fire wall, filled everything except the speedometer hole and any threaded holes that if I done use can just be plugged with a bolt. Now I need to reinforce the drivers side with some 12 gauge, since I'm switching from frame mounted pedals to swinging pedals I need to stiffen up the fire wall.
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Started doing modifications to the trans tunnel. When done they will make sense but, for now all I can say is this simple modification is taking way longer than I figured. Won't be able to work on it tomorrow, hope to finish this mod Monday and start replacing the passenger side floor pan so I can start on the drivers side.
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10/3/2015 Not welded in yet but, passenger side floor pan is close to being done. Definitely going to be strong. Lightest diamond tread my supplier had was 12 gauge!
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Discussion Starter #5
10/9/2015 My latest Craigslist buy to add to my CJ's parts pile. Paid less for 5 wheels than I was going to pay for just one of the ones I had planned on running! All I need to do is re-paint them and cut the center out of the worst 2 caps to fit my lock-outs.
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10/31/2015 Got my driver's side A-pillar replaced today. When I cut out my old rocker panel the floor board tried to bail also!
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Got my rocker panel pretty much replaced. Sure goes faster when you don't have to run after steel. When I found stuff on the passenger side I needed to replace I bought the steel for the driver's side.
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11/2/2015 I got the driver's side floor board and toe support cut out. Now to re-enforce the firewall with some 12 gauge to support swinging pedals.
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Got the re-enforcement cut to shape, just have to plug weld it to the original firewall. Next time I do a project like this I will know enough to wait to weld extra holes in the firewall. I have to go back and drill holes in the panel I welded shut!
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11/16/2015 Definitely not my most productive weekend, did get the fire wall stiffener welded in and some more sand blasting done on Saturday. Sunday was spent visiting with my oldest son and doing some work on his car. Went out this morning and filled in the holes on the cowl, one that I figure was for the 2-way radio from what appears to be use as a fire department grass buggy, and one that had a power AM-FM antenna mounted in it when I got the body. Then I promptly ran out of welding shield gas, and the implement dealership called saying my rear sump oil pick-up tube was in. So I ran 20 miles one way to pick-up the oil tube, then 50 miles the other to get a fresh tank of weld gas.

Nice thing with the Cummins is any part that was used on a tractor is cheaper from a Case/IH dealer than it is if you buy it for the OTR motors! Had a guy on another group trying to brag about his Chinese after market one he got for $39. I figure that a OEM American made one is well worth the extra $50 I paid!
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11/22/2015 My short weekend, usually only get Sunday afternoon to work on the Jeep. First test fit of driver's side floor. Little more minor trimming and a quick sand blasting to remove mill scale from the diamond tread, I'll be ready to weld it in. Not sure why it looks so lopsided when looked at. It measures out the same as the passenger side for the cutout for the trans. Will probably have to do more trimming when I test fit the motor, trans, and transfer case anyway.
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11/27/2015 Got my motor side mounts from http://www.farmstronginc.com TJ Legel makes some nice looking parts. Going to see if I can make some frame side mounts that will bolt on in the stock location on the frame. If not I'll end up getting his weld-on frame mounts. Definitely going to reduce my fab time when I'm ready for them!
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11/30/2015 Pretty much done with the front half, time to start on the back, Wish the floor boards looked as good underneath as they did on top!
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1/24/16 Since I don't have the steel yet for my rear floor decided to weld in the end-caps in the 6bt manifold. Been putting it off as I don't like welding cast iron. But, at least Cummins uses a high silicone content in their manifolds. Also finished up my taillight panels by bending the 3/8" lip on the bottom and cutting down some 3/4" tubing for the bends at the top and welding them together. Did I mention I hate welding cast iron?
bodywork 37.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
2/28/2016 Grind-to-shape, beat-to-fit. Finally getting started on my rear floor pan, realized I forgot some steel. See if I can finish it next week.
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3/7/2016 Finished welding the rear floor pan today.
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Set it in place to test fit it, and it actually fits!
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3/13/16 Got the rear floor welded in today and the first tail light panel finished and welded in.
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4/24/2016 Been a while since I've been actually able to work on the CJ but, did get a little done today. Getting ready to start modifying my Northern Tool "Jeep Style" trailer fenders.
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Got 6" between the riser and the inner fender. Should be enough room to move the seats
back for extra leg room.
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Looks like it should work, will have battery boxes in front of rear tire and speaker boxes behind.
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Both sides cut to height, length, and widen them 1.5". Maybe next week. Bet the person that stamped these "Jeep Style" trailer fenders never thought they would actually end up in a Jeep!
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5/1/2016 Might not be much but, I finally cut out the last piece of PO's body work today. Feels like a milestone to me!
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5/22/2016 So picked up a pair of factory fenders yesterday for the CJ. Some work to do to them but, they are between 30 and 40 years old, and since CJ's came with rust factory installed they have had time to increase. 20-30 years ago these would have been scrap metal and factory replacements fitted. 10-20 years ago they would have possible been scrapped and replaced with better fenders from a scrap yard. Now the only hope is better factory ones from Arizona or Taiwanese repops that don't fit and are thinner. So this leaves me with these to fix, the repairs to these will not be anymore than to try to get the Taiwanese repops to fit correctly!
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
6/22/2016 The last couple days I actually got to work on my CJ6. Got the vertical panel cut and the hinge for the battery box installed yesterday, and got the panel welded in place. Today I started on the bulk heads to separate off the battery box and speaker box.
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Also got the top spot welded to the vertical panel and welded to the outer sheet metal that I have currently on the CJ6. Starting to think it would have been easier to just use factory style wheel tubs. Right now I'm making things up as I go along. Passenger side should be easier since I'll have the drivers side to use as a pattern!
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6/24/2-16 Was lazy today and didn't hit the shop till after lunch. Got the top welded on, finished the front bulk head for the battery box. I welded both sides of the seam to make sure it was good and strong because I ended up grinding most of the weld off on the outside. Wanted it to be good and strong since my sport bar will mount to the top of the wheel well. And got a few more piddly jobs done. Still have to finish fitting the battery access door yet. For something that I designed in my mind I think it's turning out pretty good!
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7/9/2016 Milestone reached, last major patch panel on the driver's side cut and tacked into place! Drank a beer then welded it off. Still have to cut wheel opening to final size and put the lip on it. But hopefully by the end of this weekend I'll be ready to start slinging some mud on this side. Then spin the body around as start the passenger side!
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7/10/2016 The old gal has all of her curves back the driver's side her body. Some hammer and dolly work, filler, and primer. I'll be ready to spin it around and start on the passenger side!
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8/8/2016 Well, started in with hammer and dolly, using a straight edge figured out the driver's side is concave at the top rail. The worst area is actually where the factory sheet metal was left! Probably from the previous brazing rod patches. Guess I should have looked at it closer before but, at least without sighting down the side the driver's side looks good! So, think I'll back-up a little and do some more cutting and welding to get it closer. Not sure if it is my fault or a PO problem but, this is what I started with today. Tried heat and hammer but, was going to make a bigger mess than what I was starting with, that top rail does not want to play nice with the reinforcement in there. So decided it was time to break the saws all out.
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Cut the top rail every 4 inches down the affected area. Then clamped section to the tube and welded them back. Surprised me how wide some of the cuts opened up!
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Not perfect but, a lot closer than I started with. Definitely straight enough for a Jeep that will see some trail time!
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9/5/2016 Was going to spray some primer on the back of some areas before welding in the last 2 pieces on the driver's side. But, did not want to open the shop up and let in humidity. So, decided to start some filler work on the driver's side.
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Figured out that I as bad about filler as I am drywall mud. Most seems to end up on the floor! Also starting to see why rat rods and "patina" finishes are getting so popular!
bodywork 58.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
10/2/2016 Even though I haven't been able to get to the shop for almost a month, still plugging ahead. The factory hood hinges were in very bad condition. The cast cowl pieces were very worn where the pin goes through them. Also the hood hinge pins were badly corroded.

So I turned them over to my brother, original intention was to drill out the holes in the cast cowl pieces and put bronze bushings in there. But, they were so worn the cast would have been paper thin. So, he took some worn out press brake die and machined entirely new ones out from scratch. And while he was at it he also knocked out the old double-D pin and made new ones out of high carbon shaft.

Now I need to get the body done to check the fit and the position of the double-D shaft for final welding.
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10/30/2016 Got the twin-stick conversion on my NP205 done today for my build. Was going to grind the original shafts. But, found they were deeply pitted from rust in the areas that the seal would ride when in low range. Also the front shift rail was worn in the seal area from lack of use. Ended up putting in JB Fabrication stainless steel shift rails. No more worry about rust! Kind of wish I had enough rear drive line length for a NP203 doubler in front though.
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12/12/2016 Seems like in the last few months with everything else I have going on I only get about 3 hours/month to even mess with the Jeep. Did go out and finished the last of the main welding on the driver's side. Not much to really take a picture of. Won't be able to mess with it much for the next 3-4 weeks due to Christmas, work, and moving my oldest son into his new house. Hope to get the rest of the mud on the driver's side and maybe even get that side in primer sometime in January.

Merry Christmas everyone.
1/23/2017 Toe board supports finally welded in place. Most of the body filler done on the driver's side and what little I'm going to do to the fire wall done. Hope to have the driver's outside, firewall, and cowl in primer by March.
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3/6/2017 Well March is here, not much closer to primer. Did wheel bearings on my son's girlfriend's car. Found she needed front brakes also, did that the next weekend, Worked some more on the body filler. Was getting around to putting in the trans tunnel, then dug out the tool box and set in place. Glad I did, otherwise the trans tunnel would have bee in the wrong place. Ordered a new fuel tank today, figured I better get it fitted to check the trans tunnel clearance on that side before making final commitment to tunnel position. My tank that came with the Jeep looked like it had lived at the bottom of the lake for years!
5/15/2017 Didn't have any carpentry, moving, or other projects today. And, since I spent Mother's Day yesterday with the wife visiting our mothers. Figured I'd spend today with the mistress.
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Didn't realize I was down to my last bag of sand for the sand blaster. The cheap bed liner that a previous owner comes off easy, same with the original Forest Service green does. Thinking the Fire Service safety yellow must have been Imron, that stuff does not want to leave! At least I got the areas that I'm replacing metal at blasted.
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All the metal replaced, do have some extra holes that previous owners had placed to fill. Test fitted, looks good. Now I can start in on my transmission tunnel!
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
5/21/2017 Fitted the fuel tank today to finish verifying the position of the transmission tunnel. Will have to add another bung for the outlet to the lift pump. The tank has only the one 1/4" outlet. I'm going to use it for the return line.
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Did find one problem. The filler neck does not line up with the center of the fuel filler hole. Not sure if it's my fault or the quality of the replacement tank. Guess I'll fix that later.
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5/28/2017 Transmission tunnel complete. Just needs a little filler and primer after the tool box goes in. Want to prime the area where the tool box goes first though.
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7/2/2017 Second to last patch panel welded in. Then as I was admiring my work realized the side of the jeep was concave at the panel. The top rail was straight, but at the step it dove in. The original body work had been in so be of a shape that I had not noticed the CJ5 parts of the tub all have a 1" lip but, the CJ6 extension panel used by Willys went from 1" to 0.75" and back to 1"! when it was original the taper was gradual and not readily noticed but, now with a straight panel in there it sticks out like a sore thumb! Guess tonight I'll end up slicing the top of the lip and straightening it, instead of working on my inner fender.
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7/4/2017 Sunday slit the top of the step and straightened the panel, not arrow straight but, better than it was. Test fitted in the custom inner fender on that side and the fit is a whole lot better than before!bounce
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Discussion Starter #10
Now this thread is caught up to current time. Will continue to post here as the project moves forward. Hoping once this bodywork is out of the way, things will start moving quicker! Only problem is I will still have the front fenders to get the rust fixed on, and modifications to the hood and front grill.
 

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Bodywork takes forever. Bet you're excited to be done with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good weekend, got the inner fender 90% welded off.
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Rough cut the front of the wheel well opening, and the bulkheads welded in. Besides that got the exercise ramp the wife has been after me to build built. And, I got the mount made for the sump pump switch made so I can upgrade my battery powered backup sump pump.
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Lot of grinding left to do next weekend. If everything goes as planed I might have the last patch panel welded in. Then I'll really feel like I'm getting somewhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So last week, I was hoping to get my last patch panel welded in. But, got called into work instead. Last night I got the last patch panel welded in! Still have to cut the wheel opening to shape, do the fender lip and a few other odd and ends. Then I can start fitting it to the frame.
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Discussion Starter #16
Passenger fender opening cut, and fender lip welded on. Should be ready to start fitting the body to the frame!

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Hi, I read that you picked up the 77 Waggy for the front axle and steering box. Having owned a bunch of CJs and Full size Jeeps over the last 38 years, I wouldn't want to use that Waggy steering box. They are known for having a lot of slop, especially the older they are. A popular FSJ steering box upgrade is to swap in the steering box from a Chevy S10 truck/Blazer and GMC S15 truck/Jimmy. It's a direct bolt in and the variable speed steering is very tight.
I did that steering box upgrade on my 82 J10 and the improvement in steering was absolutely amazing. It was like driving a new truck. I believe mine came out of a 2000 model year Jimmy.
And BTW, great body work on the CJ6. Like already mentioned, probably better than new from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Know I didn't buy the top of the line metal band saw. But, really wish it had a way to mount a rip fence. It's a pain trying to set it straight to rip steel. Then when I was going to switch it back from vertical to horizontal operation, the threads on the aluminum trailing rollers stripped out. Guess I'll have to Helicoil it, then I'll have steel threads for the bolt. Now I'm sitting at a standstill until I get a Helicoil installed. Once the saw is up and running again, I can finish the tailgate opening once that's done.
 

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Your rip fence setup looks OK. In the furniture industry we just clamped a piece of wood on the table to make a rip fence. The one thing I see is you blade guide is quite a way above the table which can allow some blade wander.
 
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