Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

81 - 100 of 132 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
Even though TJ Legel's Farmstrong mounts are some of the best engineered mounts for a 4bt swap. I just can't not modify something. Turned his weld on mounts into bolt on mounts. That way if the next person decides to go back to a gas motor they don't have to grind them off.

88.jpg

Stuffed into place.

89.jpg

90.jpg

91.jpg

Looks like the shifter is even going to clear the dash and be in a good location.

92.jpg

Trans mount done ready to bolt in.

93.jpg

Mess cleaned up and put to bed till next time I get to work on it.

94.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,791 Posts
Looking good. You may have some guys wanting to buy those engine mounts. Just a matter of good engineering to make them a true bolt on item.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
Looking good. You may have some guys wanting to buy those engine mounts. Just a matter of good engineering to make them a true bolt on item.
TJ makes them weld in because not all CJs use bolt in motor mounts, and not all installations will be the same. No use measuring mine to reproduce since I'm building such a mutt of a vehicle there would be no future market.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
So finally time to make the TJ bumper I bought a while back fit the CJ8 frame under my CJ6. Was not overly impressed by the structural design of this bumper from the factory, and the receiver hitch was not very sturdy.

2.jpg

Ended up boxing the entire back of the bumper with some scrap 7 gauge I had and made some mounts out of some 1.5"x3"x1/4" wall tubing I had left over.

3.jpg

Got it all mounted up. Still have to change the bolt pattern on the tire mount to match the wheel on the CJ. Have a heavier receiver tube coming that will be welded to the bumper and bolted to the frame.

Now I can hang the spare from my truck on it and throw a few hundred pounds in it so I can finish setting the rear pinion angle and front caster.

4.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
Finally bolted the hinges on the hood today. Figured out there is some interference between the cowl and the hood. Seems the early hoods don't have a lip on the back of them. The late ones do, and it catches on the rain channel on the cowl. Gonna have to do some grinding on both pieces so the hood will open and close.
IMGA1211.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Got the Wagoneer Dana 44 all welded up tonight. Now all I have to do is get the new guts for it and I can bolt it in for good! Set the passenger side at 6 degrees caster. This gave me 12 degrees up pinion angle also. After measuring and remeasuring a multitude of times. Decided the driver's side inner-C was ready to weld in place.

IMGA1227.jpg

Got the cut part of a cut and turn done on the passenger's side.

IMGA1228.jpg

Cleanup done and the passenger inner-C tacked into place to match the driver's side.

IMGA1229.jpg

Passenger's side welded off. After it cooled matches perfectly still with the driver's side for both caster and camber. So if one is wrong, both are wrong!

IMGA1230.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
Pulled the open 3.07 carrier out of the front axle. figured it would make it a little lighter to clean and blast next weekend. Damn near clobbered myself, was going to grab a couple pry bars to get it out like you normally need. Damn thing didn't hardly have any pre-load. Popped right out by hand! Get everything cleaned up and in a couple weeks the 3.54 Power-Lok can go in.

IMGA1233.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
Time to clean up the front axle housing. It's not that I mind being a shade tree mechanic. I just REALLY wish I had a SHADE TREE!!!!!!!!

IMGA1234.jpg

All cleaned up and no place to go. Seems like the yoke is shot. Most 4x4s with 200,000 miles might only see 5,00 mile in 4x4. But, a full time 4x4 with 150,000 miles the pinion has turned every one of them, Knew the front seal was bad but, once I fully tore it apart found the yoke was worn also where the seal rides. Yeah, time for another stop by UPS!

IMGA1235.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #89
All cleaned up spick and span ready for assembly.

IMGA1240.jpg

Since Dana yokes are splined with a slight twist they are a press fit, and I had to get a new one I took the old one and ground out most of the splines so it is just a slip fit.

IMGA1241.jpg

OK, first aggravation of the night. Spent some extra money on a Yukon Gear installation kit. And the carrier shims have too small an ID! Had to grind every one of them to fit.

IMGA1242.jpg

Had 0.008" backlash with the setup bearings. Press on the new bearings and now I'm at 0.016". Time to walk away and drink a couple beers before I do something stupid and cost more money! Need to pull the bearings back off and move the ring gear 0.010" closer to the pinion.
IMGA1243.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
Finally got back to the front axle and finished the install of the ring and pinion and Power-Lok differential. Pulled the ring gear side bearing and put another 0.014" of shims in there, and pressed it back on. Ended up with a perfect 0.006" backlash and a good gear pattern.

IMGA1263.jpg

Buttoned back up and ready to go back in place.

IMGA1264.jpg

Home again, nice to get it under the front and jack stands moved under the axle. With the stands under the frame and a heavy 4bt in the front I could actually lift the rear off the back jack stands! Had 6 bags of concrete in the back to counter balance it.

IMGA1265.jpg

Now I'm ready to clean the outer-Cs, and caliper mounts. A little paint and start putting them back together with new ball joints. Also need to get some small bearing Chevy spindles ordered to adapt the Ford hubs and rotors to my Jeep axle and calipers. And still need to find someone to shorten my driver's side axle shaft 4" and re-spline it.

IMGA1266.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
Got the passenger side knuckle and caliper mount cleaned and painted.

View attachment 118314

Then went to the driver's side and ran out of media halfway through on the knuckle. Not having the best luck with blasting this weekend. Blew the pressure hose in my cabinet last night trying to do this!

View attachment 118322
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
So, when I pulled these hubs off the donor 3 years ago I figured I just repack the bearings and run them. No grooves or noticeable wear on the rotors. But after 3 year sitting under my welding table they were pretty nasty with grinding dust and even saw dust. Decided to knock the races out so I could give them a thorough cleaning. Glad I did, even though the passenger side one had Timken bearings it had Chinese Peer races. The races showed a lot of wear and looked as though they had gotten hot. The driver's side had Timken bearings and races but were showing wear. So, new bearings are on the way.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
Hubs and lockouts installed tonight. The Jeep axle, Chevy spindles, and Ford hubs fit together as though they were meant to be! Nice to finally have the front axle sealed up and filled with oil. Sneak peak at what's to come. First time in 3 years I can even bolt a wheel onto the Jeep! Looks like I'll need at least a 6" flare to cover the tire when done. Had been wondering where I'd be with the Wagoneer axle.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #96
Looking good. Need to get some rubber on those wheels so that critter can get on its feet again.
I'm still a ways off from completion, don't want rubber on it dry rotting till the frame comes back from the galvanizer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,791 Posts
Oh, going to get fancy on the frame. LOL. I wondered if you were going to paint it. We had another member do the galvanizing on his Ford truck frame. When done right that should last a long long time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
Oh, going to get fancy on the frame. LOL. I wondered if you were going to paint it. We had another member do the galvanizing on his Ford truck frame. When done right that should last a long long time.
Yeah, living in Iowa rust is real. And with it being a tube frame it will have more places to hold the nasty stuff!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,791 Posts
Do you have to disassemble the frame? The guy who did the Ford frame took out every bolt and rivet so the zinc covered every possible area.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
Discussion Starter #100
Do you have to disassemble the frame? The guy who did the Ford frame took out every bolt and rivet so the zinc covered every possible area.
Nope, it's a fully welded tube frame. Will drill some extra drain holes in the frame at the spring mounts to aid in draining down the road. Also there is a tubular cross brace in the rear I'll drill and tap a 1/8" vent hole to be plugged when done. There is always a chance with any fully welded tube to have pressure build-up when heated for hot dip galvanize.
 
81 - 100 of 132 Posts
Top