Just a quick update, I haven't given up my build. Just been getting other stuff done around the house so I can play some more on it. Have the hogs head cleaned up and the Detroit Locker for the 9" ready to go as soon as I get the ring and pinion bought.
Lots of small odds and ends done in the shop today.
But, since I finally got the ring and pinion for my 9" figured I'd at least bolt the ring gear onto the Detroit. That and I wanted to see if my tool I made worked to torque the ring bolts. Pleasantly surprised how nice it made it. Just wish my good vise wasn't on the work bench. Bench is tall for working on small parts. Ring bolts ended up at my chin level!
Couple more parts ordered today for my CJ6. Ran to Ottumwa and ordered a swinging pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder from a Roxor. Been reading on it and sounds like they are a wonderful fit. Will look a little more at the OEM Roxor installation when I go down to pick them up.
Times like this I really wish I could afford those fancy metal fab tools they have on TV!
All major bends done, will have to finesse all the parts together to get them into a final shape that resembles a transmission hump. Later on I will have to build a tower for the shifter boot and for the transfer case levers. First I need to make the transfer case levers!
Been a while since I could work on the Jeep, Managed to get a day with nothing else pressing.
Finally got time to work on the Jeep again. Last time I was trying to figure out how to do the trans tunnel. Finally decided that I was not going to make it with 4 main parts. So the sides I cut in half. Figured out my CAD parts were able to move easier than the metal parts! Got 3/4 of the passenger side done today.
When I cut the passenger side panels apart I found that there is no way I was going to make it work the way I originally had planned. Will probably start over with a new chunk of sheet metal for the front instead of trying to put a filler in.
Drivers side is going to be interesting since I need to reuse part of the original trans tunnel to clear the fuel tank.
Finally submitted my dash board design to Double D Fabrication, LLC. Hopefully in the next 4-6 months I'll have my dash. Not that I figure it will take that long for them to cut and bend it but, figure will be a few times emailing back and forth till the plan is finalized!
Very nice work. I saw some of your posts perhaps on the Earlycj5 site before photoshop went under, is that possible? Here is my 6. I have the thread on here for the 88 wrangler right now.
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Went out to the shop today to work at little more on the CJ6. Drug in the CJ7 sport bar I bought a while ago to get it ready to go on as the base to the roll bar I'm going to build. Needed to do some modifications for it to work.
Really was the first time I looked close at it. The mount angle iron had an area that was rusted through so figured I'd cut it off and start over.
What I found was the welds had a lot of under cuts and a lot of very poor penetration. I also noticed that the welds from the main hoop to the kicker bars are not the greatest either, I'll end up rewelding those also.
So just a word of warning, if your going use part of your stock roll bar for your basis of your roll cage. Really inspect those factory welds! There is a reason they are not called roll bars from the factory!
Working on the passenger side inner fender, This is the first one I built and it oil canned real bad. Did use what I learned on this one when I welded the driver's side so it wasn't near as bad. Think if I had built 3 the third one would have turned out perfect!
Heating small areas with the torch then shrinking with a body hammer and quenching with a wet rag. By the time I got done I guarantee the top is not perfectly smooth but, that's what Bondo is for. At least I got rid of the oil canning!
Been planning on on running the sport bar in it's factory configuration with a second main tube about 18" ahead of the original one. When I set the sport bar back on tonight it went up backwards. Now I'm thinking about mounting backwards and running longer stretcher bars and another set of kickers to stiffen it up.
Made the adapter/spacer for my ignition switch yesterday. Had a good day, made it through all 4 holes without breaking my only #29 drill bit or 8-32 tap! Was nervous since the holes were so close to the center hole.
And all 4 actually lined up. Original plan was to use sections of the 8-32 machine bolts and thumb nuts to hold the switch. Thinking now of just using 1/2" 8-32 pan head screw.
All ready to weld the spacer to the back of the dash. will need to clearance the wiring connector a little more first though.
Started modifying the opening where the steering column goes through. Have to have it angled like the intermediate CJs were. Not enough clearance to get the steering column to the right angle with just a round hole. Will use some exhaust tubing to fill in the voids.
Finished up the adapter for the ignition switch today. Decided to go with studs welded into the adapter. Had thought about just using pan head machine screws but since the threads were so close to the center bore. I was afraid they would eventually fail.
Using some brass thumb nuts to hold the switch to the adapter. Will use the same for the main gauge and speakers.
Ready to weld to the backside of the dash.
Finally settled on the position where the steering column needs to go through the toe board. Started cutting it with a hole saw and my 1/2" cordless drill. Was almost through the toe board when the magic smoke escaped from my drill! Dig figure out its hitting right on the toe board support. Going to have to do some more modifying there!
Got the adapter for the ignition switch welded to the dash today and threw in the gauge cluster just to see how it looks. Not sure yet where the starter button is going to go. Either under the switch between it and the pyrometer, beside the switch, or on the other side of the column above the headlight switch.
First shot at mocking up the steering column.
Going through the floor I ended up cutting through the toe support. Will mess with reinforcing that later when I pull the body off again.
Moved the column in 2 1/2" from the first picture. Think this will probably be it's final position but time will tell once I pull the trigger on the seats and steering wheel.