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Perhaps not exactly collapsible but certianly easily disassemblable.
The first one worked well but was much like an erector set with lots and lots of fasteners. It was very adjustable, could be taken apart and fit in the car but it took a lot of time. I was always reluctant to take it apart, and when I did it was only down to the tongue, bed, axle, and wheels; which fit in the car but not very well.


This new version will reuse the old axle, hitch, and registration. The frame this time will be 1.5" Schedule 80 aluminum tube which is 1.5" ID and 1.9" OD. The side rails are interchangeable with the tongue and are 66" long. Hubs will be adapted to use same wheels as my 05 VW car which comes with a full size spare and could serve the trailer if needed. Also have new lights for it as the old ones were hard to adapt well and weren't really legal any how, they were just marker lights.

Here are a few pictures, more to come in the next few days/weeks.



 

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I ordered some universal replacement LED's for the tail lights. These have same function to 1157 bulb with wires for dim, bright, and a ground.
The light wiring in the car is pulled from the tail lights and not powered directly from the battery. I choose LED lights because of the lower draw to keep the car happy and to not burn up that wiring adapter thing. They should also be brighter.


Here I've already removed the original 1157 socket.
 

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Couple pictures of the splices in the wiring, more to come later with them all warped up.

This one I left the cord wires long to have something to clamp to, this will be the right tail light.


This is the left tail light. Wire from vehicle will come down the left frame rail and continue across the back to the right tail light. Connections are soldered, this one is not insulated other than by distance apart and some liquid electrical tape, but that's not perfect. Again, later they are all sealed up.
 

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Lights are about done except for cutting to length and plug on the end of the cable.


I left the leads long in case I have to repair the external wiring at some point. The lights are held in with Velcro.


The crossmembers I ordered a few years ago and thought they'd work as is but they don't....
http://www.cbmscaffold.com/Pages/ScaffoldGooser.aspx
They for starters fit over a tube slightly smaller than the 1.9" OD of 1-1/2" pipe. I pressed the ends open enough to fit 1.9" pipe.
Still they don't allow the proper 36" center to center distance which needs to be pretty exact and or the fit needs to be sloppy.
Solution was to bore the ends a hair ovrsize and about 1/8" closer than they were to achieve 36" center to center.


Lights and crossmembers


Bungie cords to attach light wire


Clamp on the crossmember ends
 

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Trailer is all done with exception of the wheel adapters/spacers so I can use the Volkswagen wheels... they're lost in the mail but hopefully not for long.

Here's a shot of the coupler and safety chains. I made the little bosses with a 3/8" fine thread stud between them, seemed like the cleanest solution.


I took the whole thing apart to move it, grease and install the bearings and hubs, and paint the back sides of the hubs.
It comes apart real quick, no trouble at all. Looking forward to putting it together now and seeing how quickly and easily that goes.

Grigg
 

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... I made the little bosses with a 3/8" fine thread stud between them, seemed like the cleanest solution...
I love the detail... Neat solution !
 

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Thanks, It feels good to come up with simple clean solutions like that.

So last Wednesday I took it out empty for it's maiden voyage to the gas station and back, no troubles.


Then I took it apart and packed it in the car, sorry no picture this time but it fit very nicely.

Over the weekend up in Massachusetts we picked up a car load of stuff and a few things on the trailer. It followed along without any trouble the whole way home, I'd say it works as it should.

Now back to those wheel adapters... They did show up, and first one wouldn't fit a wheel, stud pressed in crooked. I removed the stud and machined it to fix the problem (poor quality stud, head not centered)... Then I noticed another stud was shorter than the rest, removed it and it had bad knurls on it, was trying to broach out the hole instead of form the knurls as it was pressed in. So I undercut the end of the knurl and pressed it in. Then I was thinking, "wonder if the other studs are seated?" So I pressed them all in and every single one moved at least 1/32" and most 1/16" and the one moved 3/16"... that I'm sure would have caused loose lug nuts in time as the studs worked in deeper.
But that's not all... I checked the thickness and they both are 0.015" out of parallel. That would cause the tread to run out more than 1/16".
They're pretty much scrap best I can tell... the company said they'd take them back and give me a refund but I can't get a return shipping label out of them yet.. They said box them back up and take them to the post office and return to sender, refuse delivery.. That won't fly because I already opened the box, and I'm not going to help them screw the post office.
We'll see how this resolves.

I thought wheel adapters at first because cost and quick turnaround seemed cheaper than my time and sourcing materials.
Now instead of making adapters myself I'd be better off to make new steel hubs with the bolt pattern and offset I want.

Grigg
 

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I did finally get the defective wheel adapters sent back to EZAccesory and got most of my money. http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?66177-CAUTION-about-wheel-adapters

I've bought new Timken bearings and seals and plan to make my own hubs with the offset and bolt pattern I want. My car now has 5x100mm and any newer VW Jetta has 5x112mm (same center bore) so I'll do a dual bolt pattern and when I upgrade cars eventually I can use that size wheel on the trailer too. I had thought to use aluminum for the hubs and install helicoils but that will be near $100 in the helicoil kit and enough inserts. Thinking steel might be easier and cheaper and not all that much heavier.

Here are two examples of hauling stuff with it and how the "bed" and crossmembers can be repositioned to suit.


 
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