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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I'd post here and ask a few Qs as I know there are a few members with knowledge of the commercial 6BTs. What I would like to know is what is the difference between a 98 dodge 6bt at 210hp and my commercial 6bt at 210hp. Mine has more torque 520ft/lbs as opposed to 400 ish for the dodge but if I was to put a No 10 plate in both the dodge one goes to 330hp/750ftlbs and mine would go to 230hp/630ftlbs. so what makes the difference? is it injectors or DV's or some setting in the pump?

Gaza
 

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The main thing to look at ,Pump ,Timing ,Dv's ,Injectors ,gsk .The commerical engines are made to run at slower speed with all there power and tq down low.
There is so many different set up of engines , hard to say unless you pull the numbers and the injectors ,Dv and pump .

Scott
 

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My engine is also the commercial higher torque engine. It was horribly lazy when I got it and was much more like a big truck with slow revs and lower governor limit. When I opened up the star wheel, did the governor washer mod. and move the AFC housing and fuel plate full forward, it was like a different engine. It make my 4x4 crew cab move quite well.

I dont know what you are looking for, but I am very happy with mine with just these mods. If the new plate will really only do what you say, I would suggest the free stuff first. Some say the washer mod is not as good as the real deal, but I really like it. I had to run the springs two clicks further in and adjust the idle position down a little to get it to idle properly. It makes the engine respond very quickly off idle and it cruises at very low throttle position. Before that it took 1/2 throttle to get it to cruising speed...now more like 1/8. It is alot like driving a gasser.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi guys, the original vehicle had an exhaust brake so must have had the 60lb valve springs so I bought a 4GSK which I have yet to fit I also have a No.10 plate to go in but wanted to get it running before I messed with it so that I knew it was OK before any mods. Also I have yet to fit the gauges so the mild bombing will have to wait till I have. I have already turned the starwheel a little as the first time out I thought it was a little slugish off the line but havn't been back out to see what difference it has made. I am sure when the springs and plate are in I will be very happy. BTW turbos10 I was unable as you were to make it put out ANY smoke what so ever.

Gaza
 

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My engine is also the commercial higher torque engine. It was horribly lazy when I got it and was much more like a big truck with slow revs and lower governor limit. When I opened up the star wheel, did the governor washer mod. and move the AFC housing and fuel plate full forward, it was like a different engine. It make my 4x4 crew cab move quite well.

I dont know what you are looking for, but I am very happy with mine with just these mods. If the new plate will really only do what you say, I would suggest the free stuff first. Some say the washer mod is not as good as the real deal, but I really like it. I had to run the springs two clicks further in and adjust the idle position down a little to get it to idle properly. It makes the engine respond very quickly off idle and it cruises at very low throttle position. Before that it took 1/2 throttle to get it to cruising speed...now more like 1/8. It is alot like driving a gasser.
The washer does work ,But the GSK will be better and cost more .

Scott
 

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Hi guys, the original vehicle had an exhaust brake so must have had the 60lb valve springs so I bought a 4GSK which I have yet to fit I also have a No.10 plate to go in but wanted to get it running before I messed with it so that I knew it was OK before any mods. Also I have yet to fit the gauges so the mild bombing will have to wait till I have. I have already turned the starwheel a little as the first time out I thought it was a little slugish off the line but havn't been back out to see what difference it has made. I am sure when the springs and plate are in I will be very happy. BTW turbos10 I was unable as you were to make it put out ANY smoke what so ever.

Gaza
I think the smoke has to do with the injectors and Dv , which med duty will not be quick .You won't have any problems when you install those parts .

Scott
 

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I am not following what "Dv" is...

However, my star wheel was way in when I started, AFC and fuel plate were all the way back. When I moved the star wheel forward about 1/4" I got good responce and a good puff of smoke in the process. After moving the fuel plate and
AFC full forward, it will roll coal if you go full throttle off idle. I really need to back the star wheel up a little, but there is some reason I like to be able to cover the cars behind me in a black haze :D. After the AFC, fuel plate and washer it was like a different engine.
 

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The washer does work ,But the GSK will be better and cost more .

Scott
Why does everyone say this? What is the difference? I really could not ask for my engine to work better. I have to wonder if they work better with the industrial engine than the dodge engine.
 

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If your commercial 6bt is also a '98, then it should have the p-7100 pump. Looking at the pump, working your way down from the injector lines, there 6 splined cylinder type parts. Inside those are the delivery valves. They contribute to the amount of fuel delivered to the injector with each cycle of the plunger inside the pump. By changing and/or reshaping these "valves", different amounts of fuel can be had. Usually they are more than likely a 181 valve. A popular swap is to go to a 191 DV. Then .022, then the "lazer cut". On the norm these valves don't get changed until other mods are made to the pump and the truck. The washer mod provides more fuel down low in the rpm range to help reduce lag.-Nicholas
 

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Sorry, Turbos10, I misread the post thinking Gaza asked the question_Nicholas
Ah yes, I understand delivery valves....just could not put together the acronym.
 

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Why does everyone say this? What is the difference? I really could not ask for my engine to work better. I have to wonder if they work better with the industrial engine than the dodge engine.
I can say only from driving a truck with the springs and a truck that had the washer done ,they are a true rpm ,the washer works but if the spring are weak than the washer doesn't make up the difference .

Now I know springs do wear just like everthing else but I feel better changing them out .

This is just me and I have always changed them out .

If you like it and your happy than that's all that matters.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Why does everyone say this? What is the difference? I really could not ask for my engine to work better. I have to wonder if they work better with the industrial engine than the dodge engine.
On the dodge sites I visit I read alot that the proper springs fuel harder for longer, but if you are happy stick with it.

Gaza
 

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