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Discussion Starter #1
Started my 3-53T build today, got the block and head ready for a nice hot tanks and magnaflux. Dropped off the block and head at the machine shop.:)

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I got the block and head back from the hot tank, so now cleaning and fitting liners. Going through all may parts I've hoarded and picking the best ones for this build. Next step is to send the head down to a Detroit shop and have new guides and tubes installed. I'll order up all the parts then.:) Happy Detroit.:)
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Discussion Starter #7
I finally got some time to run down to Vancouver and drop the 353 head off to have overhauled. I also ordered a new engine overhaul kit for it as well. I'll be picking it up at the end of the month. Happy Detroit.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Picked up my 353 head as well as the overhaul kit. Still waiting for one cylinder kit to arrive someday next week. Also went and picked up the #2 to #3 housing adapter as well. Can't wait to get stated building it back up. Still a month away as working on my house.
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Discussion Starter #10
2-3 adapter changes the "A" dimension on flywheel . Or was it originally engineered that way ?
Just the housing Adapter so I can bolt up the #3 compressor housing to my #2 Detroit housing. Here's adapter ring on my #3 Allison 1000 housing.
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Man, I believe that adapter plate needs some more bolt holes. LOL. They must have been afraid it was going to fall off.
 

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When I found out what they wanted for one, I made one by hand. I started with a 3/16 thick stainless steel disc 20" diameter. (material I had left from another project) I laid out the 24 3/8 bolt holes and drilled them. Next I roughed out the center hole by drilling many 1/4" holes next to each other in a circle and cutting between them with a saber saw. I mounted the disc (now a ring) on the #2 housing on the engine and doweled it in place. (now the fun part) I mounted a lathe tool bit to the flex plate along with a long handle to turn the crankshaft. After several hours of turning the crankshaft and slowly inching the tool bit out into the ring (with lots of measuring I got the center hole in the ring to the correct size. Once this was all done I pressed thread inserts (PEMS) into the inner set of bolt holes. I had to make a centering piece to locate the torque converter and once again lots of careful measuring, turning and bolt hole drilling. I haven't had a chance to run the assembly yet, but everything should be concentric within a few thousandths.

Lathe tool bit is to the left of the larger "C" clamp
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Before the thread insert were pressed in. Note the 3 small dowel pin holes.
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Discussion Starter #14
When I found out what they wanted for one, I made one by hand. I started with a 3/16 thick stainless steel disc 20" diameter. (material I had left from another project) I laid out the 24 3/8 bolt holes and drilled them. Next I roughed out the center hole by drilling many 1/4" holes next to each other in a circle and cutting between them with a saber saw. I mounted the disc (now a ring) on the #2 housing on the engine and doweled it in place. (now the fun part) I mounted a lathe tool bit to the flex plate along with a long handle to turn the crankshaft. After several hours of turning the crankshaft and slowly inching the tool bit out into the ring (with lots of measuring I got the center hole in the ring to the correct size. Once this was all done I pressed thread inserts (PEMS) into the inner set of bolt holes. I had to make a centering piece to locate the torque converter and once again lots of careful measuring, turning and bolt hole drilling. I haven't had a chance to run the assembly yet, but everything should be concentric within a few thousandths.

Lathe tool bit is to the left of the larger "C" clamp
View attachment 129688

Before the thread insert were pressed in. Note the 3 small dowel pin holes.
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That's a nice adapter.:) I was going to make one as well until a friend found one for $145 Canadian. I figured it was money well spent. I did make a #2 to Ford 5R110 that's working great for my Detroit swap.
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There was a guy on Ebay trying to sell cracked ones from multi-fuel military trucks for $250 and I knew I could do it myself for little more than my time and I wanted the thin style, so I went for it.
Do you have an opinion about mounting an Allison 1000 off the back without a rear mount. I'm set up with one front mount and the two on the flywheel housing? That is all the Allison 643 had.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There was a guy on Ebay trying to sell cracked ones from multi-fuel military trucks for $250 and I knew I could do it myself for little more than my time and I wanted the thin style, so I went for it.
Do you have an opinion about mounting an Allison 1000 off the back without a rear mount. I'm set up with one front mount and the two on the flywheel housing? That is all the Allison 643 had.
Does the Allison 1000 have a rear mount? If it does there's nothing wrong with adding a crossmember for support. I know when I bought my engine it just had the 2 rear housing mount with the Allison 545.
 

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It does have a rear mount, but I worry about adding bending stresses due to frame flex.
I've heard of suspending the rear of a trans with springs on a class 8 truck. (just to take some of the weight, but nothing rigid)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It does have a rear mount, but I worry about adding bending stresses due to frame flex.
I've heard of suspending the rear of a trans with springs on a class 8 truck. (just to take some of the weight, but nothing rigid)
There's plenty of flex on the rear trans mount, so I would not worry about frame flex.:) As long as it's the proper rubber trans mounts, you'll be fine.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Happy times, the last of my 353T overhaul kit showed up this morning.
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