Still working on the brake lights, associated faults and looks like a possible ground fault or ABS module. While I do some reading on the faults I decided to lift the cab and finish the driveshafts and slipping serpentine belt. I also found a couple more oil leaks to address. They don't call it a Green Leaker for no reason.
Spent the week working on my serpentine system. I made some small adjustments to no avail, clutch fan was slipping when I engaged it. I redesigned the system with more belt rap on both the drive pulley and the fan pulley. This time I put the tensioner between the drive and fan pulleys to take up the slack. Next week I get a longer belt and run some tests, then finish welding it up and trimming the excess steel off the bottom to make it look tidy.
Quick update. I picked up my HPTuners programmer and tried it out today. I reprogrammed the PCM and now the check engine like is like factory. When I scan for faults, I get clean (no DTC's detected). Once it's on the road I'll tune the 5R110 with it. Battery light is on because my serpentine belt is off.
I'm pretty excited, just getting a tune file for the 5R110 from a guy that tuned his with a Cummins 12V in front. I'll have a good look and see what changes he made and then proceed from there. If you get this wrong there could be kibbles and bits coming out of the 5R110.
Had a good week and finally addressed the slipping serpentine belt, picked up my new belt this morning. It works really well now and everything is working as it should. Next week I measure up the driveshafts, send those out and start making the drip pan.
Happy times. Sent out my driveshafts and front pulley today to have cut and balanced. I turned the truck around to pull the engine, paint it, weld the holes in the crossmember and make the drip pan. I'm also building a bypass for the blower, I was going to do this later, but I have the truck apart now so no better time. I pick up the bypass valve this weekend, so will begin the fabbing after the drip pan is finished. I also worked on the cowl and made room for the valve cover, so it should fit now.
Had a good week on the swap, decided to do the drip pan first. Almost finished, have to complete the join and then
paint it. To remove the pan, just have to undo four bolts and for fluid drains there will be two pvc 1.5" threaded plugs.
Another great week on my swap. I finished the drip tray, welded up the crossmember and shock tower as well as picked up some pipe for the blower bypass.
Another good week on my Detroit swap, primed and painted the engine with single stage urethane. I'm 80% finished my bypass piping and now just waiting on the bypass valve.
I'm getting ready to start on my 4bt into a 88 Wrangler YJ Build. I bought a pretty much rust free YJ with a new 4" spring lift (still under) and 33" tires. It has 3.08 gears, which seems to put me right in the sweet spot for cruising rpms.
I also have purchased a running driving step van...
Start of 64 Chevy build. Old truck sitting in back. Thought it would be cool to start another money pit, just didn’t want another LS motor build so thought a odd ball ISB 4 cylinder would be expensive. So opened the wallet and here we go.
So I have a 1989 dodge 3/4 ton D2500 2 wheel drive . It's running & I can drive it around the farm.
I'd like to remove the Dodge 2 door body off it & replace it with some other old pickup cab.
... Is there one body that fits much BETTER than most of the others.
Or is there one body you really...
Here's the DeScrambler
Here is a brief overview of what I'm doing. Diesel Powered Jeep Scrambler, built from scratch. How's that for brief?
I could never have found what I wanted in the real world because nobody makes a diesel powered Jeep, it doesn't exist, so I felt I must build it. It's...
A forum community dedicated to Cummins 4BT Diesel owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, engine swaps, transfer cases, and more!
W.R.Buchanan · updated 
