Thanks, that's a great article. The blocks has already been through the acid bath at the machine shop and are pretty clean. I've got a couple more engines to build in future, so I'll use it on those and see how clean they get.
That is correct. If the electrode can't see the rust it won't remove it. The time involved is pretty much dependent on the amount of dc power your have available. On small parts a small battery charge does ok. I've seen guys do entire truck frames but they were using a dc welder as the power source. One very serious caution is to never use stainless for the electrodes. That releases co-valent chrome into the solution which is very nasty stuff. Super deadly and cancer causing. The pollution guys would have to take your property, dig up all the soil and bury it in a special place so it doesn't get spread into the environment. The fine for doing that could be mind boggling. Just plain iron or steel electrodes are safe. You can even dump that solution in your yard and there's no harm done. Don't put it near acid loving plants. They won't like it.
I've used the electric/washing soda trick. It works, but only for line of sight stuff, and I didn't like leaving a battery charger plugged in for weeks on end. A few weeks ago I mixed a molasses/water solution in a trash can to try that for rust removal on some exhaust manifolds and turbine housings. It worked really well, so I'd recommend you try that instead.
I used a 7:1 mixture and used a small aquarium pump to inject air into it to keep it from fermenting and smelling up the shop.
I got a couple of hours out at the shop yesterday and finished cleaning up the block for reassembly. Although it was hot tanked, there was still some scaling rust in the airbox that needed to be cleaned out. It's now nice and clean ready for new cam bearings and liners.
Quick video of my 4-53T progress, still waiting for all the parts to arrive. After inspecting, measuring the crank and cam, I decided to replace both with new. My crank needed to be magnafluxed and ground .10 under and it was the basically the same price to replace it with a new crank. The Camshaft I bought is a new high lift cam with a custom grind to give the engine better airflow. For the pistons I upgraded to the 2 piece crosshead piston and sent those out to have a ceramic coating applied. I now have the engine I should have built 11 years ago.lol
If properly done, those coatings can be a big benefit. A company here in the US called Polymer Dynamics Inc or PolyDyn has gained a lot of attention from the diesel crowd. They have different coatings for bearings, piston skirts, and piston crowns. Also do ceramic coatings on parts like exhaust manifolds and turbo housings. That's another area where you can increase the efficiency of your turbo system. That's a spot where you want to keep the heat inside because that's the energy that drives the turbo. Also looks neat to have those parts coated. It just isn't cheap. Here's a photo of member Ryanroo's twins on his 6bt that has all the parts ceramic coated.
So the time has come to take the next big step with my Land Rover project, out with the little 4L V8 w/slushbox & in with a 4BT w/NV4500. Been a lurker here for a long time & it's been forever since I posted much of anything on any forum, so between here & the Overland Bound forums (& I'll...
The truck: 2006 F250 with a dead 6.0 200k+
The motor is a 2005 5.9 common rail in need.
I was going to put in a 12 valve out of my 1993 2500 but ended up getting a core 5.9 CR with the G56 I picked up. I was hoping it only needed some minor work but it had a broken ring and damaged cylinder...
I figured I should start a tread on my 4bt swap round 2. I first started out with a 4bt with a 700R4. Worked fine but the 4bt would crack the torque converters. I broke 2. I have also tried different stall speeds. I am going to just try and summarize some information for everyone in hopes...