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Wow. From what I understand, the part you are doing now is just the prototype pattern for the real part which will be 4130. Of course, aluminum for a pattern is a heck of lot cheaper than that steel. I lived beside a machine shop for nearly 60 years. In the latter years, those guys made connecting rods for racing engines. I believe they were using 4340. Maybe you could find that where you are. That's about as tough as steel gets. Probably a lot more expensive too. Even with a good drill press, when you start drilling holes in the 1"+ range it has to be heavy duty. A company I worked for years ago had one that drilled up to 3" holes. The handle that pushed the drill bit down was like 4 or 5 feet long. She was a monster. You need a Bridgeport and use cutters for those big holes. My neighbor had an indexing table on one of his machines where you could set the circle diameter and drill holes at precise angles. Of course most of his high tech work was done on computerized CNC machines with diamond cutters. He had 7 or those machines.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Yes, I'm making the first one out of aluminum just to test fit and make any adjustments that are required. Like you said far easier with aluminum than steel. Funny you mention 4340 as I was thinking the same thing after I posted yesterday. I meant to call them today, but got busy on my house and forgot to call them. I'll give them a call on Monday and see if they can get that in 5" stock. I do need a Bridgeport for sure.:) Once this piece is made I'll be able to finish the final piece much faster. I've already picked up a few things that I'll have to change in the final piece, so I'm glad I decided to use aluminum to test. I enjoy doing this, so it's all good.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Hey guys quick weekly update,

Finished the fitting the crank adapter for torque converter endplay. Used 2 different methods to confirm that there is in fact between 1/8"-3/16 of endplay and ended up getting just a little over 1/8" with the Detroit crank endplay included. Spent some time on the 6.4 flexplate and cut the weights off as they were clocked to the 6.4 and will not work with this setup. I could not find the material locally for the final adapter, so I bought 2 pieces of 4340 on Ebay and should be here by this Saturday. After the 4340 is finished I'll send it out to have hardened. After this it's onto the oil pan, I had to turn it around, so I'll have to fit the pickup, turbo drain, and dipstick tube before I can start fitting it in the frame.
 

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You think the 4340 will need to be hardened? That stuff is very strong and tough. The guys next door used to make connecting rods for NASCAR engines out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
You think the 4340 will need to be hardened? That stuff is very strong and tough. The guys next door used to make connecting rods for NASCAR engines out of it.
Hmm, I'll look into that idea thanks. Maybe it's plenty strong just the way it is, I'll certainly know once I start turning that on my lathe.:)
 

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It definitely can be hardened and you'd sure want all the machining done before. After that you'd be hard pressed to do any machine work. Just didn't know if your particular application would need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
It definitely can be hardened and you'd sure want all the machining done before. After that you'd be hard pressed to do any machine work. Just didn't know if your particular application would need it.
Thanks,

It's in the annealed form now, so it's machinable. I spoke to a couple of machinist today on hardening the 4340 and they said the same as you, no need. With that diameter and the torque the 4-53T puts out there's no way I'll break it.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I got down to Danville and picked up my 2 pieces of 4340 and a finger dial gauge that I needed. I got a few hours in turning and facing the 4340 adapter and wow is this stuff hard, it's definitely putting my lathe through it's paces that's for sure. :)
 

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Yeah, as they say that is real steel at its best. My friends who had the machine shop next door used to go through carbide cutters like water. I believe they eventually used diamond cutters on their CNC mills. Bet those weren't cheap. When they closed down they had a 55 gallon barrel full of scrap carbide. That sold for a lot of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Quick update, I ran out of carbide inserts for my lathe tools. I finished facing and turning the piece, but was going through inserts like chewing gum and ran out. I thought it would be a quick trip to my tool shop to buy some more and found that no one in my town sells them, let alone the Chinese versions I have. Well two weeks later I now have some American brands I can get inserts for and am back in business. While the lathe was down I did drill and fit the adapter and have a total runout of +/- .001 axial and lateral +/- .0005, so am very happy with those results. All I need to do now is finish the piece to length and that job is finished.:) IMG_5747.jpg IMG_5764.jpg IMG_5771.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I finally finished the crank adapter today and will test fit it tomorrow. In order to get rid of the runout I ended up mating the 6.4 adapter to mine and turning it as one unit. This worked well and in the end finished up nicely. I turned my adapter so it has to be pressed both on the 6.4 adapter and the Detroit flywheel and removed with a puller. This should prevent anything from working loose down the road.:) I still need to spend a couple more hours dressing things up, but the precision turning is finished.:) Here's the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Got a few hours in on the Detroit this week and was able to reverse the oil pan. I relocated the turbo drain, dipstick, and extended the oil pick up tube. Next on the list is to rotate the oil filter so it's horizontal, then a test run is in order with the adapter and 5R110 attached. I'm not far off test fitting this in the frame now, so I'm getting excited about that.:)

IMG_5843.jpg IMG_5844.jpg IMG_5855.jpg IMG_5850.jpg IMG_5857.jpg IMG_5859.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Got the engine in the frame and the cab lowered. I need to lower the engine another 11/4" to get the cab down on it's mounts. In order to do this I need to massage an area on the cross member where my starter sits. The other place I'll need to address is the #2 flywheel housing mount on the drivers side as the can is hanging up on that. All in all very happy with the way it fits, the only downfall is with the Jake heads being so tall I'll need to raise the cab in order to change the injectors or adjust the valves. That's not a big deal though as I have a 2 post lift and only need to raise it up 4" to get the valve cover off. Here's some pictures :)

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Getting there. I was trying to remember if there wasn't a Jake's valve cover that was in 2 or 3 pieces. That way you might not have to lift so much to get in there. I believe that was member ARAMP1 who was building a 471 truck and he made the two piece valve cover. Here's a photo of what he did. Don't know that he's ever done any more work. He was in the Air Force, then kids started coming, and he moved into the private sector.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
True, they did make a 2" riser for the 4-53 as well but are rare as hens teeth. I ended up welding 2 valve covers together to get what you see in the pictures. I did contemplate making a riser but at the time I decided it would be much faster to just weld 2 valve covers together. I totally forgot about the riser until you mentioned it, but I could make a 3" riser and a 1" valve cover or something of that nature so I did not have to raise the cab to remove. I'll measure things up and see what I can come up with, thanks for the tip.:) My next big job is hanging all the accessories off the 6.4 onto the Detroit. I'm thinking of using the balancer off the 6.4 and adaption it to my Detroit so I can run everything with a serpentine belt.
 

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Yeah, the serpentine belt wasn't usually a Detroit thing in the early days. Seems like we had a member who made a serpentine from the V belt pulley. Turned it down and added the 8 grooves. Don't believe that was on ARAMP1's 71. Possibly on a 53. Here's a link on another site on ARAMP1's build that still has most of the photos. His 71 may weigh less than your 53. About the whole block assembly is aluminum. He was estimating around 1300 lbs when done down from the original 2100. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/aramp1s-ultimate-towrig-build-thread.212269/ Here's a photo of what put the project on hold.
 

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