It's much better to use metal tubing for a fuel pickup than any type of flexible hose. I think the mention of Viton was in using it for a flex connector, and not for the actual pickup. One thing you don't want is a collpased end restricting flow, so steel, stainless or copper are best. It should be 3/8" ID or larger depending on what power levels you're shooting for, with at least a 1/4" return line ID.What's the best way to make fuel pickups?
If you used hose, did you stiffen it up with a piece or wire or something? I would think it'd be best not floppin around in there.
I was thinking of using copper tubing.
Also, what's a good distance from the bottom for the bottom of the pickup, 1/4" sound good? width of the tubing?
I wouldn't recomend copper for the pickup or any other part of the fuel line. Vibration (4bts are notorious for this) causes the copper to work harden and then crack. I normally buy brake line tubing and use it for fuel line service. When I am building something that needs to be pretty I get 20 ft lengths of stainless steel for the fuel line. The stainless is expensive and hard to work with but it looks nice. When using brake lines tube it isn't long enough to make the run from the tank to the motor so just use the brake line couplers to put 2 pieces together. That is what I have installed on my chassis for my supply and return on the 4bt conversion truck. I ran 3/8 tube for both. I didn't want to be concerned about restricting the fuel flow.What's the best way to make fuel pickups?
If you used hose, did you stiffen it up with a piece or wire or something? I would think it'd be best not floppin around in there.
I was thinking of using copper tubing.
Also, what's a good distance from the bottom for the bottom of the pickup, 1/4" sound good? width of the tubing?
Absoultey, exactly what I do on my conversions. Only I exclude the stainless, I dont care if it looks pretty under side LOL.I wouldn't recomend copper for the pickup or any other part of the fuel line. Vibration (4bts are notorious for this) causes the copper to work harden and then crack. I normally buy brake line tubing and use it for fuel line service. When I am building something that needs to be pretty I get 20 ft lengths of stainless steel for the fuel line. The stainless is expensive and hard to work with but it looks nice. When using brake lines tube it isn't long enough to make the run from the tank to the motor so just use the brake line couplers to put 2 pieces together. That is what I have installed on my chassis for my supply and return on the 4bt conversion truck. I ran 3/8 tube for both. I didn't want to be concerned about restricting the fuel flow.
I had the same problem but enstead of changing to another rubber or synthetic rubber hose I changed it all out for a clear nylon type fuel hose with compession fittings from one end to the other. Never looked back. It also helped when the electric fuel pump I had on my 6.2 diesel got blocked and was pulling in air the clear nylon line showed me immediately where the problem was. I would recommend this to anyone.I was very surprised when troubleshooting what I thought was a fuel problem on my truck [was electrical]. I installed clear vinyl tubing to check for air bubles in lines etc. Well I had to remove my brand new fuel lines made out of 'fuel injection' hose from a local auto parts. It was already splitting and cracking at hose ends in a couple of months! I would hardly believe it had I not seen it. Obviously not diesel compatible...