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Discussion Starter #1
I seem to remember some comments about regular fuel line not being diesel compatible.

What do I need to get as I am now ready to redo my fuel lines?

Thanks
 

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regular lines are diesel compatible, it is with biofuels you start having some issues and need to spend a little more on quality synthetic lines..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I want to be bio compatible as long as I am redoing my fuel system. Some of the local stations sell a bio blend.
 

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I went to carquest and they said all their fuel line is synthetic and it actually worked great for me with bio, had no issues. But cannot say if I was luckily or if it was because maybe I didn't run enough through? But I have seen some fuel like I have used that did not hold up well (gets soft, swells up) with bio...

The proper term for bio-compatible lines, long term wise, is "viton" but a lot of manufacturers make semi inexpensive bio compatible lines manufactured under different names and materials...

From the inTARweb:
"Any fuel line that meets or exceeds SAE J30R9 is biodiesel compatible"
 

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according to the site posted earlier, gates is Biodiesel compatible. Pretty sure carquest sells gates hose hence the lack of problems I had..?

* Goodyear part numbers 65148 thru 65153 & 65161 thru 65163 meet SAE specification J30R9. B100 compatible hose brochure.
* Gates part number 4241G and 4241M for marine use.
* Kuriyama part number A4143.
* NAPA fuel injection hose part H205. (Their site doesn’t seem to work on Mac.)
* McMaster Carr Viton rubber tubing part number 5119K51 (among many others).
* Thomas Register listing of other viton tubing suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Shucks has bio compatible Gates hose. NAPA also has bio compatible hose. I plan to use pure Viton in the tank since it will be immersed and Gates for the rest.

I pulled my high pressure pump out of the tank and will use Viton as a splice to make up a new pickup. All the external lines will be Gates or metal.
 

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How does the VE do with the BIO on a CPL 858. Are the seals OK?
 

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Viton is a tradename for flouropolymers. So if you find other brands flouropolymer line you'll probably be fine.

Like Teflon and polytetraflouroethylene.

A good test is to cut off a sample and soak it in the most corrosive fluid that'll be going through it.
 

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I was very surprised when troubleshooting what I thought was a fuel problem on my truck [was electrical]. I installed clear vinyl tubing to check for air bubles in lines etc. Well I had to remove my brand new fuel lines made out of 'fuel injection' hose from a local auto parts. It was already splitting and cracking at hose ends in a couple of months! I would hardly believe it had I not seen it. Obviously not diesel compatible...
 

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What's the best way to make fuel pickups?

If you used hose, did you stiffen it up with a piece or wire or something? I would think it'd be best not floppin around in there.

I was thinking of using copper tubing.

Also, what's a good distance from the bottom for the bottom of the pickup, 1/4" sound good? width of the tubing?
 

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What's the best way to make fuel pickups?

If you used hose, did you stiffen it up with a piece or wire or something? I would think it'd be best not floppin around in there.

I was thinking of using copper tubing.

Also, what's a good distance from the bottom for the bottom of the pickup, 1/4" sound good? width of the tubing?
It's much better to use metal tubing for a fuel pickup than any type of flexible hose. I think the mention of Viton was in using it for a flex connector, and not for the actual pickup. One thing you don't want is a collpased end restricting flow, so steel, stainless or copper are best. It should be 3/8" ID or larger depending on what power levels you're shooting for, with at least a 1/4" return line ID.

What, do you have a tank with no pickup at all? Probably best to stick with stock parts if tube sizing is correct, so that you have the correct fuel sender and gasket seal at access cover. If the tank is baffled, which it should be, then 3/8" from bottom of tank should be fine. You don't want to run a diesel on a nearly empty tank anyway!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Correct, I'm using the Viton as a flex connector. I had an in tank pump that I removed. I'm using 3/8 hard line to the bottom with the Viton to splice the two together.
 

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I've got a tank with an in-tank pump as well. It was stock in the Durango. I don't know if it's baffeled...i don't think it is though but i could be wrong. I was going to just disconnect the pump and use it for the fuel gage sender that's a part of it. i was then going to run hardlines into the tank for the pickup through the top of the existing pump. I may gut the pump and just keep the gage sender once i take a look at it.

I have a stock hardline in place as well that i was going to use for my return line.
 

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My Cummins shop manual states the the return line should go to the bottom of the tank, this is emphasized. Why, its just a return line ?

Paul
 

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Aeration: The state of air being suspended in a liquid such as a lubricant or hydraulic fluid.

Just imangine how your diesel will run when the diesel is half air.
 

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What's the best way to make fuel pickups?

If you used hose, did you stiffen it up with a piece or wire or something? I would think it'd be best not floppin around in there.

I was thinking of using copper tubing.

Also, what's a good distance from the bottom for the bottom of the pickup, 1/4" sound good? width of the tubing?
I wouldn't recomend copper for the pickup or any other part of the fuel line. Vibration (4bts are notorious for this) causes the copper to work harden and then crack. I normally buy brake line tubing and use it for fuel line service. When I am building something that needs to be pretty I get 20 ft lengths of stainless steel for the fuel line. The stainless is expensive and hard to work with but it looks nice. When using brake lines tube it isn't long enough to make the run from the tank to the motor so just use the brake line couplers to put 2 pieces together. That is what I have installed on my chassis for my supply and return on the 4bt conversion truck. I ran 3/8 tube for both. I didn't want to be concerned about restricting the fuel flow.
 

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I wouldn't recomend copper for the pickup or any other part of the fuel line. Vibration (4bts are notorious for this) causes the copper to work harden and then crack. I normally buy brake line tubing and use it for fuel line service. When I am building something that needs to be pretty I get 20 ft lengths of stainless steel for the fuel line. The stainless is expensive and hard to work with but it looks nice. When using brake lines tube it isn't long enough to make the run from the tank to the motor so just use the brake line couplers to put 2 pieces together. That is what I have installed on my chassis for my supply and return on the 4bt conversion truck. I ran 3/8 tube for both. I didn't want to be concerned about restricting the fuel flow.
Absoultey, exactly what I do on my conversions. Only I exclude the stainless, I dont care if it looks pretty under side LOL.

Paul
 

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I was very surprised when troubleshooting what I thought was a fuel problem on my truck [was electrical]. I installed clear vinyl tubing to check for air bubles in lines etc. Well I had to remove my brand new fuel lines made out of 'fuel injection' hose from a local auto parts. It was already splitting and cracking at hose ends in a couple of months! I would hardly believe it had I not seen it. Obviously not diesel compatible...
I had the same problem but enstead of changing to another rubber or synthetic rubber hose I changed it all out for a clear nylon type fuel hose with compession fittings from one end to the other. Never looked back. It also helped when the electric fuel pump I had on my 6.2 diesel got blocked and was pulling in air the clear nylon line showed me immediately where the problem was. I would recommend this to anyone.

Gaza
 
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