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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
which accessory pulley, the alternator or a double pulley that does a V belt? Motor mount-wsie, I will do a mid motor mount setup that uses the bolts that 6BTs normally use. . with some creative fab I'll be able to get around the starter which is normally the problem with that location. I'll post pics as I plan to do it, hopefully this week some time..
 

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The pulley is the one that does the v belt. The one I am looking at in the parts catalog is not a doble pulley it just bolts in front of the existing serpentine belt pulley , I think that is the one that DogDiesel needs.

Looking forward for the pictures of the engine mout bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I renamed this thread so it shows some of the stuff I'll be doing to my motor before buildup. I have this thead also that is the complete buildup of my '69 FJ55 land cruiser wagon on a FZJ80 chassis. Sorry it is a long read, I am attempting to document it well for one reason or another..
Here is the same page with the same basic stuff that I am posting here...
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92355&page=20


Anyway, I did some messing around with welding and trial welding to cast to figure out the end cap situation with my shortened Cummins 6BT manifold. As I was welding and the cast got hotter I got noticeably much better pentration and cleaner looking welds. But that said the coloration was off compared to mild steel. Again there is no major strength needed on these welds, just ability to hold pressurized air which should not be too tough. I am debating whether to have the manifold tig welded up by a pro or MIG it myself..
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hey Fernanado before I forget, here are pics of that pulley you were mentioning. Turns out that gen set motor I have has that pulley on it to power a vaccuum pump...
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So I started tearing into my motor. Still on the fence about rebuilding it (this thread goes over it:
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276 )

I will probably rebuild though, this gets me 1 step closer. But I did this honestly, 1, to just do it, and 2) to get to this side of the motor to start cleaning/removing grease...
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Here is the infamous Killer dowel pin. Forever, I confused the KDP with the timing pin when they are completely different. The KDP is used to help align the aluminum front cover on the block. I found out that for the most part, the KDP is a non issue on this era engine, as is definetely the case with mine, mine is pretty much impossible for it to come out as long as the aluminum cover is on there. Second pic, the KDP is top left...
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I was having trouble finding TDC. So I pulled the 1st valve cover and felt some weird jarring with the pin but nothing concrete. So I pulled the timing pin, and.. it was broken, inside the gear also.. Not sure how I will get that out other than maybe just drill as its plastic...
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Once I got it timed to TDC more or less, check out these cool markings on the gears to show what it what and where it all goes... On the fuel pump gear, ther e are different markings probably for different fuel pump types... The wheel itself is made by Bosch... On mine (A 105 4BT with a Bosch VE pump) the mark on the cam gear aligns with the "F" marking, to the left of the "B" and "A" markings on the wheel...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If it helps, here is an overview of what is what under the valve cover. My power steering pump is missing at this point so the arrow shows where it was...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Here is my technique for figuring out the timing and doing multiple markings before I removed the Bosch VE pump.. in the second pic, you'll see a piece of metal I cut so I could perfectly place the pump back where it was. Metal piece sits between top of pump and the engine head...
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
HEre is final product of how this side of block looks, need to clean it badly... You can also see the two ports where there is oil pressure...
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
next started tearing into power steering pump. I don't have the NAPA part number handy but a remain is less than $60 or $80 or so from Napa. YOu have to pull apart and reuse the cummins adapter parts including the gear and mounting bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
you have to use some sort of gear puller to get the pulley off. I used a vibration dampener remover I have lying around that I got from carquest for about $20 I think if I remember correctly.. Then here is an exploded view.. From the 3 bolts to the right side, and right, are all Cummins parts that have to be reused. The rest is Saginaw that comes with a new pump...
 

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that's it for now, as more updates come I'll post more pics..

:beer:
 

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[Quote
Anyway, I did some messing around with welding and trial welding to cast to figure out the end cap situation with my shortened Cummins 6BT manifold. As I was welding and the cast got hotter I got noticeably much better pentration and cleaner looking welds.


Did you preheat it before welding? I read somewhere on the web about what's called "cold" rod for stick welding cast. Supposedly it can be used with only low preheat, 110 F, without cracking. Expensive, $6-7 per stick, but it shouldn't need more than two or so for this job. I've got to go talk to my welding supply shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
good call.. I also have a friend who is very good and clean with sticks so I'll try that out.. Andre
 

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Here is my technique for figuring out the timing and doing multiple markings before I removed the Bosch VE pump.. in the second pic, you'll see a piece of metal I cut so I could perfectly place the pump back where it was. Metal piece sits between top of pump and the engine head...

Andre;

Easy way to remove VE Pump and not loose time.

Scribe mark on VE pump mount base and also Timing Case
Bar engine to TDC as found by TDC Pin
Loosen lock screw on VE Pump and remove special washer (wire washer to engine)
Tighten Lock Screw to 22 foot pounds
Now the VE Pump is locked at TDC

On reassembly, before tightening nut on VE Pump drive gear to torque, disengage TDC Pin or it will break off

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
interesting I did not lock the main shaft but was very careful to remove in position.. I will do this though, asap.. :)
 
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