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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I pulled the oil pan from my motor tonight to repair or replace it. The gasket was naturally trashed. It had a lot of black silicone on it when I took it apart. It appears it has been apart in the past. Is just silicone good enough or do I need the gasket? What kind of silicone should I use? I just purchased a tube of the copper for use between the exhaust manifold and turbo, so I have that. I also have a tube of the red. I used that on the differential cover. Black and blue :( are the other choices right? I do not have those at home but if that is best it's just another stop at the parts store.
I was suprised to find that the pan bolts were metric. I plan to run a tap through all the holes to clear out the old silicone. What size are they? I'm not up on metric sizes. I guess I should chase the threads on the bolts too.
I didn't see the torque value for the oil pan bolts in Bob S's post. How tight??
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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The Cummins engines are based on the metric system, everything.

For the oil pan, Cummins says, "use Three Bond 1207-C to fill the joints between the pan rail, gearhousing and rear cover." Nothing else is applied to the oil pan gasget. The torque is 18 ft-lb for the oil pan capscrews. The capscrews are M8-1.25 x 20mm
 

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Discussion Starter #4
For the oil pan, Cummins says, "use Three Bond 1207-C to fill the joints between the pan rail, gearhousing and rear cover." Nothing else is applied to the oil pan gasget.
I was considering not using a gasket at all, just a sealant. I have never heard of Three Bond 1207-C. I guess this is something that is a "Cummins part"?

Thanks for the information scout4bta, that's what I needed.


66gaza, My motor had a fiber type gasket. It ripped when dropping the pan.
 

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I use the right stuff sealer,it's not the cheap sealer,when it's dry it's a rubber based sealer.

Best to use in calk style tube,they sell it in the kit 2 tube and a small gun.

I have used this stuff for over 6 years,but stuff ever !!

Thanks
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I use the right stuff sealer,it's not the cheap sealer,when it's dry it's a rubber based sealer.

Best to use in calk style tube,they sell it in the kit 2 tube and a small gun.

I have used this stuff for over 6 years,but stuff ever !!

Thanks
Scott
Is there any special place to find this? Again this is a new brand to me.
 

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dont put no sealer on the manifold to turbo......
use 3 m weather strip adhesive on one side of NEW pan gasket and a very thin layer of permatex ultra black on the other side. never use a oil pan gasket over ....... always use a gasket ....... no need to chase oil pan bolts as when you install them if theres any leftover silicone it will just push out the top.
 

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Is there any special place to find this? Again this is a new brand to me.
The right stuff can be found @ Napa,Carquest,advanced auto,autozone.

Only napa or carquest will have the kit with the gun,rest of them will have the tubes,or they will have the cheese style can .


Thanks
Scott
 

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Just a caution. Holset warns against using liquid gasket sealants instead of whole solid gaskets because it only takes one small chunk floating into your turbo bearing ports to trash your turbo bearings. Their warning:
Code:
Do not use liquid gasket substances or thread sealant as any excess can enter the turbocharger oil system to
obstruct flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a caution. Holset warns against using liquid gasket sealants instead of whole solid gaskets because it only takes one small chunk floating into your turbo bearing ports to trash your turbo bearings. Their warning:
Code:
Do not use liquid gasket substances or thread sealant as any excess can enter the turbocharger oil system to
obstruct flow.
mooktank from the forum here recomended the copper RTV, so I bought a tube. I have not used it yet. It sounds like I need to go buy a gasket. I may have more turbo issues. For details see my other posts.
 

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I recommended copper RTV on the exhaust.

For any oil sealing I would use Ultra Black. Any chunks most likely won't get past the oil pickup screen. I used it on my front timing cover. Just don't put too much and make sure you let it cure for 5-10 mins before installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
dont put no sealer on the manifold to turbo......
mooktank,
Sorry for not being clear on the copper RTV. The above quote is what I was refering to when I said you recomended it.

I checked on the gasket pricing today at Cummins.
The turbo to exhaust manifold gasket was under $2.
The oil pan gasket is $34. and change.
So the turbo gasket is cheaper than RTV.
On the other hand a tube of RTV is way cheaper than an oil pan gasket.
 
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