[hereismylife]

Ok I have 3 coolers up front in front of the ac condenser. I am wondering do I still need these with the 6bt and 47 rh trans? I am just getting info on this because If I need to keep them I will have to relocate them else where because the ic is going to be up front now.

Thanks Joe

 

[CrewCab59]

1.I remove trans cooler and replace them with a aftermarket cooler and fan set up mount it under the cab away from the heat ,no need to add 190 * water temp to the trans fluid.
2. You need to find out what the other coolers are for !


.http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=4&cat=20&subcat=&pid=75



CrewCab59

 

[BobS]

You can eliminate the engine oil cooler.

 

[hereismylife]

You can eliminate the engine oil cooler.

Do The cummins have any ports or are they just not used?

 

[JimmieD]

The Cummins already has an oil cooler in the oil cooler housing where your oil filter spins on. Some run an auxiliary piped into that plumbing.

There's a couple of 1/4" pipe plugs in the side of the block on driver's side, one about center and the other towards the front close to timing case, below injection pump. These are hi-pressure oil gallery plugs. At the center just behind the middle plug there's a 'freeze plug' in the block, and cast-in threaded bosses there. Cummins makes a bypass oil filter and that freeze plug is popped out and threaded bosses accept a casting with return line fitting, held in place by 2 bolts, with an o-ring between casting and block over freeze plug hole. It's possible to fit auxiliary oil cooler plumbing there also.

Like Bob said, don't need it for normal use at all.

 

[hereismylife]

The Cummins already has an oil cooler in the oil cooler housing where your oil filter spins on. Some run an auxiliary piped into that plumbing.

There's a couple of 1/4" pipe plugs in the side of the block on driver's side, one about center and the other towards the front close to timing case, below injection pump. These are hi-pressure oil gallery plugs. At the center just behind the middle plug there's a 'freeze plug' in the block, and cast-in threaded bosses there. Cummins makes a bypass oil filter and that freeze plug is pooped out and threaded bosses accept a casting with return line fitting, held in place by 2 bolts, with an o-ring between casting and block over freeze plug hole. It's possible to fit auxiliary oil cooler plumbing there also.

Like Bob said, don't need it for normal use at all.

Ok ic. Does the dodge truck run any type of oil cooler out front near the rad or just the aux cooler on the engine for the oil?

I will be towing a 30 ft trailer from time to time also if that matters.

Is this what you are talking about? The big round tube?

[URL=http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6264648][/URL]

 

[CrewCab59]

That cooler is for the trans cooler ,that needs to go !

 

[hereismylife]

That cooler is for the trans cooler ,that needs to go !

Already off

 

[sdstriper]

I respectfully disagree. That heat exchanger/cooler is important for proper transmission temperature, not just cooling but heating as well, may not be important if your in a warmer climate. The best set-ups I have seen use it as well as an air to air in the front radiator area and an underbed thermostatic fan cooled unit with manual override switch. Proper gauge placement and pay attention to it.

 

[NYCEGUY01]

I respectfully disagree. That heat exchanger/cooler is important for proper transmission temperature, not just cooling but heating as well, may not be important if your in a warmer climate. The best set-ups I have seen use it as well as an air to air in the front radiator area and an underbed thermostatic fan cooled unit with manual override switch. Proper gauge placement and pay attention to it.

I will have to disagree here. Once I put the Cummins in my chevy it became clear that it had to go.

If someone really wanted to use it it could possibly be relocated but at least where it is right now it aint gonna work.

I personally know of 3 non dodge trucks with a cummins here in the top of utah that have not used one and have suffered no ill effects.

 

[CrewCab59]

I respectfully disagree. That heat exchanger/cooler is important for proper transmission temperature, not just cooling but heating as well, may not be important if your in a warmer climate. The best set-ups I have seen use it as well as an air to air in the front radiator area and an underbed thermostatic fan cooled unit with manual override switch. Proper gauge placement and pay attention to it.

1.The main problem with them is after years it get blocked from not changing the coolant ( radiator ) .
2.A New one might work if you plan not towing anything .

Any time you add coolant temp plus the trans temp your trans will have a short life. Plus it's under the turbo and not getting any fresh cool air,why do you think Dodge stop using them !!

Run it if you like ,I remove as soon as I get them .

If you like cut one in half ,you'll see what I mean .

 

[turbos10]

I have to agree with leaving the radiator cooler plumbed inline. The time this really comes into play is when the transmission is cold and you only have a big air-to-air cooler plumbed in. The transmission will run below the design temp for an extended period of time, which is just as bad as running an engine or anything else with low temperature oil.

The key is to plumb the air-to-air before(hydraulicly) the water cooler. This way the heat is removed from the transmission with the air-to air and stabilized with the radiator cooler.

 

[DarylB]

I have to agree with leaving the radiator cooler plumbed inline. The time this really comes into play is when the transmission is cold and you only have a big air-to-air cooler plumbed in. The transmission will run below the design temp for an extended period of time, which is just as bad as running an engine or anything else with low temperature oil.

The key is to plumb the air-to-air before(hydraulicly) the water cooler. This way the heat is removed from the transmission with the air-to air and stabilized with the radiator cooler.

Aren't most regular cooler setups plumbed so the air/air are post radiator not before so the temperature is first regulated by the water cooler then brought down slightly by the air/air?

 

[IHWillys]

...heat is removed from the transmission with the air-to air and stabilized with the radiator cooler.

Just a nitpick to clarify terms:

An air-to-air cooler is used to cool air(like a charge-air intercooler or aftercooler).

The system mentioned above uses both an oil-to-air heat exchanger(in front of the main radiator) and and an oil-to-water exchanger (inside the main radiator).

Ken

 

[turbos10]

Just a nitpick to clarify terms:

An air-to-air cooler is used to cool air(like a charge-air intercooler or aftercooler).

The system mentioned above uses both an oil-to-air heat exchanger(in front of the main radiator) and and an oil-to-water exchanger (inside the main radiator).

Ken

Yeah, yeah....typos....my mistake....used to talking charge coolers. Jeez, I did it three times too!

 

[turbos10]

Aren't most regular cooler setups plumbed so the air/air are post radiator not before so the temperature is first regulated by the water cooler then brought down slightly by the air/air?

Could be, but in that case you can have issues in cold conditions. If radiator temp is low and you have the oil/air cooler after, you could run oil back to the transmission that is under 100 degrees for long periods of time....which is bad. I think everyone is missing the fact that 200 degree oil is okay.

 

[One Big Doofus]

I would leave it,...Stop n Go traffic and no air flow from a fan clutch that is several inches away, will heat things up in a hurry. Unlocked T/C in stop and go traffic can get fluid temps well above 220-240 coming to the cooler and 180 degree water will be the only thing that cools if off .
The under the truck fan cooler's are ok until they get in a muddy environment. There great on Hwy truck though.

Just my 2 cent's

 

[JimmieD]

The B&M Supercooler 70264 is 11" x 11" x 1 1/2" and is spec'd for a 29,200 BTU rating. It's about the size of a package of printer paper. They are a stacked plate design of brazed aluminum, very tough. These units are equipped with a 'Low Pressure Drop' which is a bypass allowing a controlled amount of ATF to bypass the stacked plate core when the trans fluid is cold. This protects in cold climate areas to guard against lube system failures. The fluid is returned directly to the lube circuit according to oil's viscosity through bypass openings in the stacked plate core. As the oil/fluid temperature increases more ATF is directed through the B&M cooling core.

90% of transmission failures, from varnish formations to hard seals to slipping/fried clutches or bands are all caused by ATF being overheated. The lower temp damages of varnishes clog up valve bodies and tranny filters accelerating the more serious damages at higher temps. With automatics I like to use the fat B&M Supercooler in combination with a remote spin-on cartridge filter for maximum protection. As mentioned, it can go in some out of the way place with a thermostatic fan and proper ducting to provide protection in any temperature and under any conditions.

 

[hereismylife]

1.The main problem with them is after years it get blocked from not changing the coolant ( radiator ) .
2.A New one might work if you plan not towing anything .

Any time you add coolant temp plus the trans temp your trans will have a short life. Plus it's under the turbo and not getting any fresh cool air,why do you think Dodge stop using them !!

Run it if you like ,I remove as soon as I get them .

If you like cut one in half ,you'll see what I mean .

So if dodge quit using them what new design did they come up with?

 

[1985cucv]

trans cooler on the radiator

so what if your cooler is built into the radiator already. I have a military truck with a huge radiator that i hope i will be able to use i planned on leaving the one on the side of the motor too but it doesnt make any sense too as you guys have pointed out. If i have it plumbed already to the radiator i can get rid of the one on the side of the motor correct. I plan on using the stock cooler as well just to save on costs and because it was free thanks for the help