dodge nv4500 flywheels...
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5.9L gasoline, no. 5.9L Dodge Cummins, yes, but you need everything from the bare back of the engine to the driveshaft(s) as a set which includes the starter.
Everything need to be from the same set of parts. No mixing and matching between the years to be safe.
Everything need to be from the same set of parts. No mixing and matching between the years to be safe.
flywheel
Yes it does. If you are planning on using an nv4500 trans with your 3.9 like I am, everything from the adapter plate to the bellhousing is the same. You might check with some other posters on the exact year, but I think that from 94 to 02 (?) are the ones that you want. NAPA sells it as a clutch kit (i have yet to buy) for about 480 $. You might be able to find one for less on ebay but why gamble with wear items. ps If you ask NAPA or Cummins or Dodge, they will tell you that you should not do this because it has not been done on a large scale. Alot of guys on this site have done it successfully though. good luck.
Yes it does. If you are planning on using an nv4500 trans with your 3.9 like I am, everything from the adapter plate to the bellhousing is the same. You might check with some other posters on the exact year, but I think that from 94 to 02 (?) are the ones that you want. NAPA sells it as a clutch kit (i have yet to buy) for about 480 $. You might be able to find one for less on ebay but why gamble with wear items. ps If you ask NAPA or Cummins or Dodge, they will tell you that you should not do this because it has not been done on a large scale. Alot of guys on this site have done it successfully though. good luck.
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Fast typing on my part. You need everything between the bare back of the engine block to where the drive shaft attaches. 89 - 93 uses the 13" clutch, later uses the 12-1/2" clutch. Now does that make more sense?
that is true if hes sticking with the Getrag from 89-93 but if hes inquiring about a nv4500 89-93 requires a special bellhousing from AA for the nv4500 to bolt up, which is pretty common these days to find on a 8u9-93 rig, if he uses the 89-93 engine adapter plate , flywheel and clutch.
94-2002 the engine adapter plate, stock bell housing and a NV4500 will match up. the 12.1/4 clutch can be used or the stock nv4500 flywheel can be drilled out to use a 13" setup. which has a larger dampening hub and is less prone to hub failure.
the T-cases for all dodge manual tranny applications interchange from 1989-2007 on the back of Getrags, NV4500's, NV5600's and G56's the trick is driverside or passenger side.
You dont need the driveshaft bob was being safe by telling you to get everything you can, so it all matches but with the dodges alot interchanges.
DD
There's a potential problem with the NV4500 Dodge flywheels. Because they were used behind Cummins, and many owners knew nothing about how to clutch a diesel, many are seriously heat cracked and checked.
The first one sent to me had four radial cracks, from center all the way out to near the edge of flywheel, in perfect 1/4's of the wheel. I could see several .000's clearance in 3 cracks, so a real grenade if it ever cut loose! Check your new flywheel very closely for cracks & checking.
Also Cummins advises strongly against resurfacing the flywheel. Only a very light cleanup is allowed, which I did to mine. That means a heat checked flywheel is junk, and many wreckers don't know they're unuseable, or else hope you don't know!
Just a Buyer Beware note here as good ones are out there.
The first one sent to me had four radial cracks, from center all the way out to near the edge of flywheel, in perfect 1/4's of the wheel. I could see several .000's clearance in 3 cracks, so a real grenade if it ever cut loose! Check your new flywheel very closely for cracks & checking.
Also Cummins advises strongly against resurfacing the flywheel. Only a very light cleanup is allowed, which I did to mine. That means a heat checked flywheel is junk, and many wreckers don't know they're unuseable, or else hope you don't know!
Just a Buyer Beware note here as good ones are out there.
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There you go, problem solved.
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how do you correctly clutch a diesel?
Well, not any different than you do I would guess hah! Problem is many folks are used to a torqueless wonder of a gasser: REV motor, SLIP clutch and get under motion quickly to escape the burning disc smoke.
With a diesel the proper way is to simply ease out the clutch and IF NECESSARY give it a touch of fuel, then when fully released step on the go pedal. The bottom end off-idle torque is plenty to get ya rolling without clutch slip. If it isn't then turn the idle up a smidgeon.
Roll all stops signs, slowing to a crawl way before the line and keep rolling momentum up. While still rolling let the clutch out and drive through normally.
When I do that at stop signs I come up a little fast and so make a visible slowdown ALMOST to stop, and then take extra time rolling up to the line very slowly, much more time than a car that quickly stops and takes off. Had cops watch me do this many times, no complaints yet, because I'm looking in all directions and driving very safely. They usually understand about diesels for the most part.
On all upshifts and downshifts match engine rpm to mainshaft speed. That is, double-clutch on all downshifts also.
Whenever coming to a full stop, if possible, pop it in neutral instead of sitting there with the clutch linkage riding the throw-out bearing.
Doing these things will make a 6BT clutch behind a 4BT last for MANY miles with no complaints.
With a diesel the proper way is to simply ease out the clutch and IF NECESSARY give it a touch of fuel, then when fully released step on the go pedal. The bottom end off-idle torque is plenty to get ya rolling without clutch slip. If it isn't then turn the idle up a smidgeon.
Roll all stops signs, slowing to a crawl way before the line and keep rolling momentum up. While still rolling let the clutch out and drive through normally.
When I do that at stop signs I come up a little fast and so make a visible slowdown ALMOST to stop, and then take extra time rolling up to the line very slowly, much more time than a car that quickly stops and takes off. Had cops watch me do this many times, no complaints yet, because I'm looking in all directions and driving very safely. They usually understand about diesels for the most part.
On all upshifts and downshifts match engine rpm to mainshaft speed. That is, double-clutch on all downshifts also.
Whenever coming to a full stop, if possible, pop it in neutral instead of sitting there with the clutch linkage riding the throw-out bearing.
Doing these things will make a 6BT clutch behind a 4BT last for MANY miles with no complaints.
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The NV4500 stuff interchanges pretty well actually. I beleive you can mix and match as long as you have the starter spacer. Finding it is hard and expensive though other than from Ford Cummins...
Personally with my 2003 dodge dually I dont use the throttle at all until I am in road gear, Just start in 2nd, once the engine is smooth 3rd and so on until 6th which is about 50-60km/h and then give it throttle
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More Info.
For those of you who don't already know, The NV-5600 6 speed flywheel is different than the NV-4500 5 speed flywheel. The 6 speed flywheel has the ring gear at the edge of the flywheel, where as the 5 speed flywheel has the ring gear in the middle of the flywheel body.
I know this because I am using the www.destroked.com adapter plate for the Ford 5 speed manual transmission, and I tried to use the Dodge 5 speed upgrade kit. It didn't work because the starter gear went in too far past the ring gear when using the 6 speed flywheel. The Destroked adapter plate for 5 speed transmissions require the 5 speed flywheel. Destroked does not make starter spacers for their adapter plates.
99% of these 13" upgrade kits are just a 6 speed flywheel with a starter spacer and new clutch. The 6 speed flywheel is becoming a common replacement for the 5 speed flywheels that are very prown to heat cracks.
These upgrade kits are all fine and dandy if your using the NV transmission in your conversion, but it will NOT work with the Ford and GM adapter plates.
So just a heads up for non-NV transmission users about flywheel differences.
For those of you who don't already know, The NV-5600 6 speed flywheel is different than the NV-4500 5 speed flywheel. The 6 speed flywheel has the ring gear at the edge of the flywheel, where as the 5 speed flywheel has the ring gear in the middle of the flywheel body.
I know this because I am using the www.destroked.com adapter plate for the Ford 5 speed manual transmission, and I tried to use the Dodge 5 speed upgrade kit. It didn't work because the starter gear went in too far past the ring gear when using the 6 speed flywheel. The Destroked adapter plate for 5 speed transmissions require the 5 speed flywheel. Destroked does not make starter spacers for their adapter plates.
99% of these 13" upgrade kits are just a 6 speed flywheel with a starter spacer and new clutch. The 6 speed flywheel is becoming a common replacement for the 5 speed flywheels that are very prown to heat cracks.
These upgrade kits are all fine and dandy if your using the NV transmission in your conversion, but it will NOT work with the Ford and GM adapter plates.
So just a heads up for non-NV transmission users about flywheel differences.
Dodge had two flywheels, the 13" which was behind the HO engines, and the 12.25" behind the SO engines. You may come across a 6 speed that actually has the 12.25" flywheel as the 6 speed was available in 99 and 00, before the HO option came along. Just an FYI.
the spacer is a cummins part. i'll check the part number. i keep a spare since ive had one crack. i thinkit was $20 from cummins dont quote me on that but it was cheap enough i didnt flinch when i bought 2.
The 13" con O holds up to 650 ft/lbs and 400 hp no problem on a 6bt. the Con ofe 13 held into the 550 hp range with twins on a 6bt no problems. Peter rates em pretty conservative
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