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cj, yep maybe 400/450. Have not looked at that torque for awhile. Just had 500 in mind, possibly thinking of larger transmissions,

Agree with out the yoke on the shaft it should only be holding the bearings in place.
Cheers Steve
500 is definitely the spec on my FS5306, was just reading the manual and torquing that down a few hours ago and laughing at the impossibility of me hitting that number with the tools available to me.
 

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I have a custom made 3/4"square drive breaker bar, around 3 1/2 ft long. was closer to 4 ft until trying to back a RR rear nut off. Could not budge it by hand so blocked the bar on the chassis and used the engine. Nut 1 bar O.

That was back in the 70's, RR had a run of leaky seals in new units in International trucks. We gave up trying to back them off and just split the nuts. Added to nut to the warranty claims and never had a knock back.
Have the calc's somewhere to make up an adaptor to run a standard type torque wrench to those spec's. 3/4 or 1"drive torque wrench's are a little hard to come by.
Cheers Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I wondered if I was still going to have a 3/4 inch breaker bar when I was first taking my transmission apart. I flexed the thing pretty bad while removing that nut. Fortunately, the nut decided to give up first. Truthfully, I'm a little surprised at the torque callouts, seems a bit over kill to me.

Cj
 

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I hear that, have to pull one apart here soon but my son has access to a 1"air wrench so don't think getting it apart is going to be a problem..
Cheers Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Buttoning up.. few final details. With all the cutting I did to fit the clutch linkage, I had to come up with a new cover to fit over the hole in the side of the transmission tunnel. Lots of pounding, a bunch of cutting, a bit of welding and here is the new hump.
Rto6610 cover R.jpg
I tried to give it as much clearance from the gas petal as possible. As there is no air compressor on board I found someone locally selling a Viair compressor setup and I was able to get a tank and twin compressors for a Ben Franklin. Attached it all to a board and it has been sitting in the bed.
Rto6610 compressor R.jpg
There were several holes in the bed from the previous owner through which I ran the power and air lines. I have noticed that the transmission does leak some air. I’m thinking about putting a 12v solenoid valve between the tank and transmission to help reduce the losses. I don’t have the compressor controls wired to the ignition. Eventually, (and with warmer weather) I’d like to move the compressor down onto the frame rail. Yet to do.. Still need to rebuild the linkage to the transfer case. At this point, I’m thinking I’ll just get the 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive positions working (and maybe later I’ll figure out how to manage the transfer case neutral and 4 wheel low shift points). I’m also considering added some additional sound deading materials to the cab to reduce the noise. As for fuel mileage.. I’m only on the 3rd fill up since I got the truck back on the road (about 1500 miles on the Roadranger now). First tank was used towing a light load when it was really cold (I still have the EBV system), second fill up averaged 18.25mpg on the rear tank and 18.75mpg on the front tank (this is still with some cold weather and a newbie on the ten speed). Working on the third fill up now and it looks like I’m doing much better at shifting (I'm getting better at skipping gears). Current shift pattern is start in 5, range over to 6th, then jump to 8, 9 and 10 (though sometimes I’ll skip 9th as well). For reference, I was averaging 20.5 or so before the swap.
And here's the beast just after I got it all (mostly) put back together (Pic was taken mid January..... and yes the swap was done outside :)).
Rto6610 first move R.jpg
 

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Had the same problems with the air bleeding down when stopped and also added a solenoid valve to shut the air off to range cylinder. Have not had time to replace all the O rings. They are sitting on the bench.

Usually start in 4 then jump to 6,8 ,9 and finally OD. even with a bit of a load I rarely use below 3rd.
Cheers steve
 

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If you're getting 18 MPG on a 7.3 that is very good. That's about the best I've ever gotten on my '90 non turbo. Might have flirted with 20 once or twice but that was with a good tail wind. The aerodynamics on your truck are a bit better than my '90 so that helps some. With the weight coming in near 7000 lbs it's kind of hard to get good mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Char,

I'm a bit heavier than 7000#. If memory serves the truck was right around 7800# empty before the swap. I'm thinking'll I be a bit north of 8k# after adding the roadranger. I'll have to find a scale sometime when I have full tanks.

Blackduck,

What is your rear end ratio? I have started in 4th... but rarely. In 5th gear, I run the engine up to 1500 rpm then drop into 6th, then run it up to 1800 rpm before grabbing 8th gear at 1100 rpm.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ok Gas Mileage update.. took a trip north this last weekend with the kiddos.. 552 miles with a calculated 20.29 mpg.

Cj

Ps - Blackduck.. rear end is 3.55 with 285/75r16 tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
So just a quick update... I almost have 6000 miles on the transmission now and I finally found a load to pull. Gross weight was right around 27k. It was really slick to have the low first gear and even lower reverse. Forklift weighs in around 13k by itself.
IMG_20190821_191412550.jpg
Forklift engine needs a little work - it has a sheared distributor/oil pump shaft pin. So the engine needs to come out and the oil pan needs to come off to pull the oil pump assembly. But, hey for $375 I can't complain. I also finally got the thermocouples in place in the up-pipes. No pictures of the thermocouples yet.
 

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20+ MPG on a 7.3 is excellent. Back in the old days I heard guys brag about getting 25 but I think they were smoking some funny weed. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Char,

Given the right tuning and axle setup I don't think the 25 mpg is out of the question (but it isn't easy to achieve either)... Over the last 6000 miles I have averaged around 19.75 mpg with a high of 20.5 mpg. I definitely didn't rate that coming home with the forklift. My average with 27k lbs was 11 mpg at 55 mph in 9th gear (direct drive for the RTO) which was better than I thought it would be. Lowest I've seen was 9.5 mpg with a 21/22k lb load, but that was driving through the hills and winds of Wyoming with the ZF5 in 3rd and 4th gears.

Cj

P.S. With this load I finally had the weights on everything checked on a certified scale... Truck comes in at 7400# with mostly empty tanks. The gooseneck weighed around 6150#.
 

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So just a quick update... I almost have 6000 miles on the transmission now and I finally found a load to pull. Gross weight was right around 27k. It was really slick to have the low first gear and even lower reverse. Forklift weighs in around 13k by itself.
View attachment 124067
Forklift engine needs a little work - it has a sheared distributor/oil pump shaft pin. So the engine needs to come out and the oil pan needs to come off to pull the oil pump assembly. But, hey for $375 I can't complain. I also finally got the thermocouples in place in the up-pipes. No pictures of the thermocouples yet.
[/QUOTE
Is the lift a Toyota ? Is motor a strait 6 ? If yes the motor is actually a Chevy metricized in Japan, the motor of the early land cruiser, I have one, you can improve the starter by putting a Chevy on it , just elongate the bolt holes a little
 

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So just a quick update... I almost have 6000 miles on the transmission now and I finally found a load to pull. Gross weight was right around 27k. It was really slick to have the low first gear and even lower reverse. Forklift weighs in around 13k by itself.
View attachment 124067
Forklift engine needs a little work - it has a sheared distributor/oil pump shaft pin. So the engine needs to come out and the oil pan needs to come off to pull the oil pump assembly. But, hey for $375 I can't complain. I also finally got the thermocouples in place in the up-pipes. No pictures of the thermocouples yet.
 

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CJ, must have been something got jammed in the oil pump to shear that pin in the gear !
Is the lift a Toyota ? Strait 6 ? If yes it is actually a Chev metricized in Japan , motor in old Land Cruizer , I have one ! You can put on a Chev starter by elongating the bolt holes in the starter, big improvement!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Papa,

I asked the previous owner about what happened. Seems that a friend was helping out with the forklift doing something with the distributor and in putting it back together did something wrong. when they tried starting it the distributor exploded. When I got the engine pulled, oil pan off and oil pump out I found that the pump spun free. So whatever happened to the distributor did the gear in. Unfortunately, they no longer sell just the gear so I ended up with a new oil pump. As for the engine - the forklift is powered by an inline 6 Continental L head engine. The forklift is a 1978 Allis Chalmers ACP 60.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hopefully this works... Welcome to Jacobpowerstroke97! As this info seems to be pertinent to the general topic I'm pulling our conversation out of the private realm and reposting it here for all:

Hey I enjoyed your post and all the pics you posted on this eaton behind a powerstroke. I've done this in my mind hundreds of times but to finally see it done certified that it could be done. Thanks to the fact international offered the t444e version with the sae#2flywheel housing. Now my question is what size pilot bearing did you have to go with. I'm getting parts together to put a rto9513 behind my 2wd 1997 f350. Thanks for all the info and pics you've posted. And I'm sure I will pick your brain on more things as I continue.
Jacob,

Welcome! I have seen it done mostly in Dodges... Roadranger 10 Speed Conversion...it Can Be Done!!! There is also a thread somewhere (I can't seem to find it in my notes) of a fellow that put what I remember was an rtoo 13 speed behind his dodge truck. As for a pilot bearing - you will need to get one that fits you setup. If memory serves I used one with a 30mm ID and 70mm OD as that fit the bore in the flywheel and the nose of the input shaft. The RTO 9513 is a bigger beast than my 6610. I know that what I did will work with an RTO6613, but I'm not sure how it will work with a bigger transmission. I'm happy to help out.
Actually the dodge conversions is what compelled me to do it to mine. I'm a big 7.3 powerstroke fanatic lol. I do know the rto9513 is heavier than the 6610 or 6613 and I have seen them with 2" shafts and 1 3/4 shafts. I'm thinking the ones set up for the sae#2 bellhousing comes more often with the smaller shaft which I may be wrong is the same shaft as your 6610. I do at some point want to convert my 2wd dually to 4x4. I was considering the 205 divorced transfercase but your setup would be much smoother process. Less shafts and universal joints. But as of right now my zf5 is locked down (making it a perfect time to do this conversion) so just going 2wd right now to get her going again is the main goal. The 4x4 part will be another build in the future lol. How is your build holding up? Also how does the speedometer work on this setup? Does ford use the transmission speedometer on a 2wd? I'm glad to hear from you and like I said will probably need your thoughts as I go into this setup lol
The input side of the transmission is the lessor of your worries. Your are correct on the input shaft being 2 or 1.75 inches (there is also a special 1.5 inch input shaft as well). You will likely have to do even more transmission tunnel work than I did as the transmission is bigger. I don't know as much about the 9513's output which is really what you will need to figure out to determine if a married transfer case will work. My truck is holding up great (it has taken me a bit to learn how to shift again ;)) and I have about 12k on the new setup. The speedo on the Fords is in the rear axle - there is a tone ring on the ring gear that sends a signal back to the dash (at least for the powerstroke versions).
I was actually considering the 2 or 3 inch lift kit. I've heard and read good and bad about doing this. I know you wasn't wanting to go that route do to your gooseneck hitch and extending brake lines etc. My truck doesn't have the in gooseneck hitch and sets low to the ground as it is. It's stock other than the exhaust is cut off right at the transmission. I do wanna put the 3" down pipe into 4" with Aussie stacks in the bed. I know it's cheesy big truck thing that most people hate but it's what I like and it's paid for so it's my truck so why not makes it like I want it lol. And yes I drive a peterbilt sometimes so maybe I am partial to the big truck theme lol. Anyways the actual reason to for the bigger trans is the fact I plan on building the motor to be around 400 to 450hp at around 800ft tq and I thought the weakest link then would be the zf5. I have heard they stand up well to high hp and tq but in reality how long can they stand it? I figured it's a win win I get more gears (btw I'm a manual fanatic too) and the trans is capable of standing 950 ft lb tq so I'd feel more comfortable when I build the engine. The only weak link is the driveshaft. Which is what worries me about the divorced transfer case option. I'm glad to hear yours is doing great! I'm sure the shifting will take time to get used too especially in the old style 9513 which is designed not to be pre selected on the splits.
You could also consider a body lift as well to give you additional space. You'll probably have some other weak links as well at that power level.... driveshafts, transfer cases, rear ends.
So probably best to leave it stock or at best a few performance mods like intercooler and an upgraded cold air intake and the exhaust I was talking about. I'm sure it'll pull what I want too with that tranny. Is the dana 80 weak?
Hmmm... interesting question.. My truck is stock, don't even have an intercooler yet. And still driving around on the Sterling 10.25 axle. I wasn't the fastest thing on the road (and I wasn't bothered by it), but the truck pulled 19.5k fine. I did avoid big hills partially the climb up (didn't have a EGT sensor yet), but more for the trip down as the trailer brakes aren't the best. My hope is to bump the torque a bit. I'd like to run something like the High Output tune that International offered which was 620 ft-lbs of torque (horsepower didn't change much). I have had a hard time finding allowable torque info the axles and transfer cases. Though, I remember seeing that the Sterling is rated at 2000 ft-lbs in short duration. I'd like to find a Dana 80 for my truck as it has an 11.25 in ring gear (the Dana S110 would be cool too but the lowest ratio is 3.73 and I would ideally like to stay with 3.55s). The 80 is capable of quite a bit... Ford uses them in the dually f350s and f450s which are rated up to 35000 GCVR (and maybe even more). As I understand it... Sterling 10.25 (which is similar to a dana 70) 10k# load rating, dana 80 12k# load rating, dana s110 14k# load rating.
I'm thinking mine is the dana 80 as it is a dually, but I'm not 100% on that. I also am mostly persuaded mine is 4:10 gear ratio. Yeah I know all to well about the being slow lol the guys I work with rag me all the time about it (most dodge cummins diesel guys with a few duramax guys). I've always been the 7.3 powerstroke fan. Mines not fast nor the best on fuel but I do admire that it pulls really stout.
On the OBS 97s the rear axle was usually a Sterling 10.25 even in the dually. Here is a link to some info: Dana 80 Axle Parts, Gears, and Upgrades and the Sterling Ford 10.25" / 10.5" Axle Parts, Gears, and Upgrades (looks like my memory is wrong). So you and I may be ok with the heavy loads after all.
Your exactly right I just looked up my rear end code d5 which is 10.25 limited slip 4.10 gear ratio. And my truck says it's rated at 10,000lbs
Careful... the weight rating listed in the truck on the door will be different than the actual axle rating. Axles are often derated. The trucks rating is often based on the tires under it.
Let me ask you a question on the clutch. Is there a reason you went single disk? And I'm assuming the transmission bellhousing is what gives the indication as to if you need a pull or push type clutch.
I went with the single disk as it is capable of 650 ft-lbs of torque which is lower than what the transmission is capable of, but still higher than what I plan for from the engine (620 ft-lb eventually). It is also lighter and fits the flywheel I already had. The bell housing can determine what type of clutch you go with. If the upper throw-out arm pivot holes are drilled out then it is a pull style, and if the lower holes are drilled out then you have a push style bell housing. I have seen bell housings with both sets of holes drilled out which could go either way.
 
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