Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
You don't need a superstructure mount of any kind for an ALH. You can use OEM mount brackets from a 04-05 Passat TDI to give you side mounts. You'll have to notch about 1/4" on the main accessory bracket for the driver side Passat mount, but nothing major that'll affect strength. There's plenty of m10 and m8 empty bosses on both sides of the block to make you own like any other motor.
Sorry for blasting you with questions, you just sound like you actually have some hands on experience with these.

What do you think about an m-tdi setup?I really like the idea of a mechanical injection pump like a 4bt.
 
Sorry for blasting you with questions, you just sound like you actually have some hands on experience with these.

What do you think about an m-tdi setup?I really like the idea of a mechanical injection pump like a 4bt.
Google Whitbread Performance and you'll find lots about me, some hands one experience is putting if mildly haha!

While mtdi has its place, I honestly prefer electronic TDI's in swaps if youre after anything over ~150hp. Once you get the ecu tuned for egr/maf delete, and immobilizer deleted, the wiring is no longer scary. You only have a few powers/grounds, gas pedal, n75 solenoid (2wires), and the obd port (3 wires) to hook up. Everything else is self contained in the engine wiring harness that you don't have to touch. If you want to run cruise, add 3 or 4 more wires. Having vnt turbo control alone is worth it.

Here's a swap harness with no cruise. Just motor, solenoid for vnt turbo, and glow plugs.

 
Google Whitbread Performance and you'll find lots about me, some hands one experience is putting if mildly haha!

While mtdi has its place, I honestly prefer electronic TDI's in swaps if youre after anything over ~150hp. Once you get the ecu tuned for egr/maf delete, and immobilizer deleted, the wiring is no longer scary. You only have a few powers/grounds, gas pedal, n75 solenoid (2wires), and the obd port (3 wires) to hook up. Everything else is self contained in the engine wiring harness that you don't have to touch. If you want to run cruise, add 3 or 4 more wires. Having vnt turbo control alone is worth it.

I'll post a pic of a swap harness when I get home, there really isn't much there.
I'm not scared of wiring at all. I'm a BMW tech by trade with 15 years experience.

I just really like the simplicity of a mechanical pump. Like on a 6bt, with a stick, you don't even need a damn battery for the engine to run. I think that's cool.
 
I'm not scared of wiring at all. I'm a BMW tech by trade with 15 years experience.

I just really like the simplicity of a mechanical pump. Like on a 6bt, with a stick, you don't even need a damn battery for the engine to run. I think that's cool.
Then you'll be more than fine enough, bmw's are worse than VAG cars with electronic gizmos that love to break.


Like I said, mechanical stuff is nice and has its place, I have an Mtdi motor in my 81 rabbit truck and I'm putting a 4-53 detroit in my 87 K10. But in my rabbit it's a bone stock mk3 tdi motor with a set of mild nozzles, maybe ~140hp. My ~300awhp wagon on the other hand would be absolutely terrible if it was mechanical. With a 12mm pump, 5x.013 nozzles, 15.5:1 CR, and compounds with a vgt hp turbo, it would just be a smoke monster anytime off boost and would probably need ether or 10 glow cycles to cold start.



As i said before, my recommendation is to only run mtdi if you are doing a mildly hopped up stock motor and dont need/want a vnt turbo or are a serious doomsday prepper and worried about an emp burst as the result of a zombie attack.

Contrary to what all the mechanical nuts will tell you, The only sensor that could possibly make the motor not run is the crank sensor. Between the hundreds of tdi's I've worked on and from all my friends working at shops in the VW world, I've only ever heard of two crank sensors in my 8 years in the vw realm failing. Even if the throttle pedal somehow dies, it will still start and idle. The ECU has built in stall prevention so it will add fueling to maintain idle; on a bone stock tdi you can idle and shift your way up to 5th gear and the motor will idle down the road at 25mph easily.
 
And it runs on unicorn farts?

He's hitting 134mpg some days. He must smoke the same stuff as the guy with the 55 mpg Ram.
Not to bring this back from the dead, but... Randomly came across this thread and noticed you referenced my Rabbit that was getting 100+mpg's. I just wanted to note that it was running on veggie oil so those are miles traveled per gallon of diesel burned. I did not take into account veggie oil consumption. Real world mileage for that car was in the low 40's range, lower in the winter, higher in the summer. Also, rabbit was a 1.6 non turbo IDI, not the more modern TDI. I apologize if I inadvertently mislead anyone.
 
Not to bring this back from the dead, but... Randomly came across this thread and noticed you referenced my Rabbit that was getting 100+mpg's. I just wanted to note that it was running on veggie oil so those are miles traveled per gallon of diesel burned. I did not take into account veggie oil consumption. Real world mileage for that car was in the low 40's range, lower in the winter, higher in the summer. Also, rabbit was a 1.6 non turbo IDI, not the more modern TDI. I apologize if I inadvertently mislead anyone.
I don't see how reporting that way could do anything but mislead!
 
All depends on what you are trying to express. :)

I could say that my 1995 Ram truck, when I am running on 100% biodiesel, gets a cost-based mileage of about 51mpg.

It gets the same real mileage as it does on diesel (about 17mpg), but the fuel is 1/3 the cost, so it triples my cost-based mileage.

Put another way; I spend no more on fuel than a guy running a 51mpg car only on regular diesel. So it can be an effective comparison, in a specific situation. :)
 
All depends on what you are trying to express. :)

I could say that my 1995 Ram truck, when I am running on 100% biodiesel, gets a cost-based mileage of about 51mpg.

It gets the same real mileage as it does on diesel (about 17mpg), but the fuel is 1/3 the cost, so it triples my cost-based mileage.

Put another way; I spend no more on fuel than a guy running a 51mpg car only on regular diesel. So it can be an effective comparison, in a specific situation. :)
That's miles per dollar changing. Not miles per gallon.
 
Then you'll be more than fine enough, bmw's are worse than VAG cars with electronic gizmos that love to break.


Like I said, mechanical stuff is nice and has its place, I have an Mtdi motor in my 81 rabbit truck and I'm putting a 4-53 detroit in my 87 K10. But in my rabbit it's a bone stock mk3 tdi motor with a set of mild nozzles, maybe ~140hp. My ~300awhp wagon on the other hand would be absolutely terrible if it was mechanical. With a 12mm pump, 5x.013 nozzles, 15.5:1 CR, and compounds with a vgt hp turbo, it would just be a smoke monster anytime off boost and would probably need ether or 10 glow cycles to cold start.



As i said before, my recommendation is to only run mtdi if you are doing a mildly hopped up stock motor and dont need/want a vnt turbo or are a serious doomsday prepper and worried about an emp burst as the result of a zombie attack.

Contrary to what all the mechanical nuts will tell you, The only sensor that could possibly make the motor not run is the crank sensor. Between the hundreds of tdi's I've worked on and from all my friends working at shops in the VW world, I've only ever heard of two crank sensors in my 8 years in the vw realm failing. Even if the throttle pedal somehow dies, it will still start and idle. The ECU has built in stall prevention so it will add fueling to maintain idle; on a bone stock tdi you can idle and shift your way up to 5th gear and the motor will idle down the road at 25mph easily.
Came across your old post while researching for my current project. I'm putting an AHU onto an AX15 sitting on an S10 chassis covered by a 62 Willys truck. (Haven't found something to represent the Ford community yet, but maybe a tail light.) None the less I am seeking information on the wiring needed to make it go. I got my engine from a donor 98 Jetta, and stripped out all the wiring including the cluster and even the air/heat box. What's lacking is a good readable diagram to help identify what can be cut out and what can be jumpered over. If you have a lead, please reply. It's going to be an adventure as I want to make the cruise control and the chevy ABS work. I currently have no idea if the speedo can be calibrated or not, and that is also in the list of queries.
Thanks in advance, hope your still follow this thread.
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top