[LincTex]

I pulled up to my parking space, and right as I was reaching for the key to shut it off, the damn thing just quit as if I had already turned the key off. I put 12 volts to the fuel solenoid and I can hear a nice click, it sounds normal.

I opened the drain on the bottom of the spin-on fuel filter, pumped the fuel pump lever, and no water came out, just clean fuel. I closed the drain, and primed the fuel pump lever but the lift pump works fine and moves fuel. Now what the hell do I check? Everything seems fine.

Can the fuel solenoid go bad and still click normal-like? I had great power on the drive there. What all can go wrong/what is the next thing to check?

 

[BobS]

I put 12 volts to the fuel solenoid and I can hear a nice click, it sounds normal.

It this by turning the key on and off or by hooking up a jumper to the solenoid?
If it's by using a jumper then crank it with the jumper on and see how it acts.

If that doesn't do it then remove the filter and dump the contents into a glass or clear plastic container and look for water. Replace the filter if you find water.

 

[Machman]

That's very similar to the scenario I had when I hit my gel/water issue at Dad's. I had run the truck (idling) until the thing showed normal temp on the gauge. Pulled out of the driveway with normal power, and it just shut down at the first stop sign just like I'd turned off the key. Had a solid "thunk" out of the solenoid, got fuel out of the bleeder when I loosened it (it was under pressure between the lift pump and the IP). Pumping the lever on the LP gave squirts out the bleeder, and I could hear it pumping through the system when bleeder was closed.

Didn't have a drain type filter (I do NOW!), but when I took it off it did NOT appear to have water in it.

Fix was replace the filter (filling the new one with lots of anti-gel / water treat and diesel) and then prime/purge. Had to crack an injector line to purge before it'd run..

 

[LincTex]

I tried to start the engine with both the original wire and the jumper wire. There was a nice solenoid click with either one, but still no light-off when cranked.

It isn't water or gelled fuel, it was 70*F today!
Also, the fuel is flowing fine through the lift pump, fuel filter, IP, and out the return line (I pulled it loose to check flow)

I drove it about 19 miles (local and hwy) and it just plain died on me. What is funny though, was a few weeks back I was idling at a stoplight and it missed once (only for one or two cylinders, just barely enough to notice) and it did it again about 30 seconds later at another stoplight. Just one or two cylinders, barely enough to notice, but ran fine under power. I thought it was just a loose wire jiggling around or something.


Today there was no miss, just died 100%

 

[Machman]

That was mine, except at 19°F...

Everything I looked at said I should be good, fuel flowing everywhere, but no fire whatsoever, no smoke out the pipe. After the fuel filter swap and prime, it gave "hints" that it wanted to fire, but still wouldn't catch. Took cracking the injector line to finally get it to go.

I'm working under the assumption that it was a water / gel issue. But..

Might wanna try cracking an injector line loose and see if it helps.

 

[LincTex]

I'll try those ideas. I also robbed the solenoid from a good working 6BT VE pump to try if needed. I can't help but wonder if the same reason it was missing a little at the stop lights is also why it died.

 

[LincTex]

Changed filters and primed forever: nothing

Changed solenoid: nothing

Cracked injector lines: nothing

pumps is coming off issed: :madflipoff: issed: :madflipoff:

 

[JimmieD]

WAIT A MINUTE LINC!

Never figured out what caused it, and had some of the best tech's in America stumped, NOBODY, EVER FIGURED IT OUT:

A correct installation, all good fuel lines and all that. Crank truck over with the key: no start. Purged everything, installed a clear hose to LP to visually check for fuel, pulled fuel shutoff solenoid, bled injectors etc.: Nothing!

Then I noticed by accident the truck engine would start with an auxiliary push button 'bump' switch if I cracked the fuel line at the front end of VE Injection Pump! I got it running but couldn't drive that way. Finally discovered that if I installed a separate starter button, using the ignition switch only for energizing the KSB/Fuel shutoff Solenoid, it would start! Didn't have to crack that injection pump line.

To this day the truck will not start any other way but with the separate dash mounted starter push button and key switch combination. Runs fine that way of course.

 

[LincTex]

To this day the truck will not start any other way but with the separate dash mounted starter push button and key switch combination. Runs fine that way of course.

I ran a jumper wire to the solenoid. It clicked just as strong as it did with the key.
I even pulled the plunger and spring out of the solenoid, then tried it. Nothing.

 

[CrewCab59]

remove the oil fill tube or the round screw on plate on the front engine cover ,your nut may have come loose and your I/P shaft it just spinning.

Scott

 

[mooktank]

I ran a jumper wire to the solenoid. It clicked just as strong as it did with the key.
I even pulled the plunger and spring out of the solenoid, then tried it. Nothing.

If you took out the plunger and spring then I'd say that eliminates the possibility of it being the solenoid. Try a filter and maybe a fuel pressure check and rebleed the injector lines. If it doesn't fire I'd suspect a dying IP...

 

[4bt Terra]

On one of the 4BT i aquired that would not start/run,the injection pump shaft was sheared.Take a look at the front cover inspection hole.
Sergio.

 

[Paul(in NY)]

remove the oil fill tube or the round screw on plate on the front engine cover ,your nut may have come loose and your I/P shaft it just spinning.

Scott

A 4B series is a Keyed IP shaft on the drive gear. But the key could have sheared ?

Paul

 

[CrewCab59]

A 4B series is a Keyed IP shaft on the drive gear. But the key could have sheared ?

Paul

I forgot to add that it was keyed ,I talked to him and told him that as well.

Thanks Paul for keeping me on my toes.

Scott

 

[LincTex]

I couldn't get the gear off.

It is fighting worse than a harmonic balancer. I am thinking the key sheared and then carved nasty grooves in the shaft/gear bore, keeping it on.

Will fight on it more in the morning. A steak is waiting for me.

 

[BobS]

I couldn't get the gear off.

It is fighting worse than a harmonic balancer. I am thinking the key sheared and then carved nasty grooves in the shaft/gear bore, keeping it on.

Will fight on it more in the morning. A steak is waiting for me.

That gear is way harder than the key. That gear is hardened to the point where it has a slight ring if you hold it and bump it, sorta rings like a bell.

 

[averagef250]

An Aisin AX-15/R-150 5th gear hub puller works perfect for the IP pulley if you happen to have tranny tools or friends with them.

 

[JimmieD]

remove the oil fill tube or the round screw on plate on the front engine cover ,your nut may have come loose and your I/P shaft it just spinning.

Scott

Hey, Linc, I'm not real sure, but I think Scott just said he thinks you've got a screw loose :rasta:

 

[LincTex]

I think Scott just said he thinks you've got a screw loose

Probably right. I love diesels when they run but hate them when they break.

 

[JimmieD]

Sure hope it's a dumb-easy fix bro!