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Please excuse my ignorance, but isn't the transfer case offset to match the offset on the differentials?They are both 4X4 and the front diff is on the drivers side.
Please excuse my ignorance, but isn't the transfer case offset to match the offset on the differentials?They are both 4X4 and the front diff is on the drivers side.
so if i understood you offset the engine to get your transfer case to have perfect alinement with the drivers side drop?.. why not center the engine and have a slight cant from the transfer case to the differentials by the drivelines?Yes, they are both drivers side drop.
I'm just doing it the way it was from Dodge, the offset does not interfere with anything on the Cummins so no need to reinvent things. The diff is also very close to the oil pan so engine could not move over to center without major mods. View attachment 131116
On my first set of mounts the isolators were centered on #2 cylinder, the engine was centered between the frame. Used 93 Dodge Diesel isolators.Still got questions that need answered:
- Are you guys mounting the engines dead-centre or offset?
- What is the typical inside width on your frame-rails?
Now I'm curious. What you did not like about the Dodge mounts that made you go to the Anchor ones? I just put the Anchor 2698's in my Dakota and they work well but I'm wondering about durabillity long term with the weight of the Cummins and towing which will put lots of torque on the mounts. I had intended on using the Dodge ones with the holes drilled in them for this new swap.On my first set of mounts the isolators were centered on #2 cylinder, the engine was centered between the frame. Used 93 Dodge Diesel isolators.
My current project I'm using the Anchor 2698 (fluidlastic) isolators.
The Dodge mounts in my Scout worked very well and better with 2 drilled holes in them. There were some rpm ranges where they transmitted some vibration at cruise speed, but not enough to make me change them out. Those original mounts were still going strong when I sold the Scout last year, Altho the drilled holes had pretty much collapsed.Now I'm curious. What you did not like about the Dodge mounts that made you go to the Anchor ones? I just put the Anchor 2698's in my Dakota and they work well but I'm wondering about durabillity long term with the weight of the Cummins and towing which will put lots of torque on the mounts. I had intended on using the Dodge ones with the holes drilled in them for this new swap.
wonderful... now if they had shown the optimal load points and mount configurations to reduce the harmonic vibrations we'd be happier than a pig in mud.......
if we dampen the motor before we calculate the needs of the rest of the drive train.. I'd think we could find that the normal systems in place to dampen them would be more than adequate..With the numerous combinations of drivetrain & physical movement constraints?
Well that's a damn good reference. Where did you find it?If that's the case you would be damping primary and secondary of the engine only. If you don't take the drivetrain into account you can't dampen roll frequency. It's worst at idle and happens to the chief complaint.
94+ Dodge mounts are offset and the isolator has a spring constant of 3000lbs/in (yes I measured).
Cummins Install Guide , see post #5Well that's a damn good reference. Where did you find it?
edit..........
If packaging allows you could opt for more static vertical deflection. 0.6" (15mm) would provide 98% isolation.So if we go for the soft mounting, we're looking for static vertical deflection of ~0.2 inches (5mm). We can then decide how far in the mounts need to be to give a soft enough moment to keep roll frequency below 14 Hz (I have done none of the maths yet).
How about mount orientation? Can we simply use rubber blocks on 45 degrees (I'm thinking of landrover 300tdi mounts right now) and not care about the intersection height?
If I read you correctly and my memory serves.. I read on here of people using the top GM engine roll suppressor to tame the vibration.. if that be the case.. maybe a bottom mount/ top mount configuration would produce premium dampening.. then someone who has actually used their brain for something other than forgetting their engineering classes of 40 years ago.. we should be able to vector out tortional forces and use this for optimal mount locations and design.. but my math ability died long ago... too many head injuries and too much booze and drugs under the hood..If packaging allows you could opt for more static vertical deflection. 0.6" (15mm) would provide 98% isolation.
With a block type mount I would take orientation into account. Intersection height is the roll centerline and when roll center is inline with center of mass, 100% of any primary unbalance & reaction torque is absorbed by the rubber. Down side is you have a lot of shifter movement
The ones I've looked at had the intersection well below crank and more like front axle height. Probably just because that's the position that fits. The result I guess is side to side rocking instead of letting the whole drivetrain roll.If packaging allows you could opt for more static vertical deflection. 0.6" (15mm) would provide 98% isolation.
With a block type mount I would take orientation into account. Intersection height is the roll centerline and when roll center is inline with center of mass, 100% of any primary unbalance & reaction torque is absorbed by the rubber. Down side is you have a lot of shifter movement