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Can anyone give me a good recomendation on where to buy an engine stand capable of safely holding a 4BT? I found a 2000lb one at harbor freight but am a little concerned about the quality and functionability of it. Has anyone used any of the HF stands?

Thanks for your help,
 

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I used this one

It isn't the best thing out there but it got the job done. I was kinda careful when rolling the thing loaded across the seams in the garage floor just cause the engine would kinda bounce a bit. It was cheap and I wanted something that would make it easier to move the engine and keep it off the floor. If I were to do it again I would probably rig up some support from the front of the engine to the front wheels just to make it more stable.

Andy
 

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I'm borrowing an HF stand. It held the engine just fine but I braced it and am supporting the front of the engine with some wood blocks just in case. You can see the bracing and the blocks in the pic.

 

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the harbor freight stands are fine in my experience... They are a little cheap but seem to work fine..

PS Paul cool test stand! I test started mine on the stand too using a vertical chain pulley system we have to double support it...
 

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PS Paul cool test stand! [/QUOTE said:
I left some slack in the chain on the hoist and actually bounced 215 lbs(need diet) on my cheap stand to make sure it could handle weight of motor.
 

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I dont trust any of the imported stands, and many of the US Made one are not very stable either. Can you just imagine a Cummins dropping on your foot ! I built my own...
Just need a seat, an umbrella, a little rope for steering and a big 'ole stick to stop with and you have a Daily Driver...bounce

Very nice!!!!
I've seen a 4bt on one of "those" stands...Didn't like it at all...I heard it scream a time or two...:crybaby:

Andrew
 

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Hey Boots4 be careful hanging that engine off the aluminum adapter! I know it's easier but remember "safety first" as the aluminum threads are alot softer than cast iron. Might also be a good idea if you could use a jack fastened to the engine stand instead of the block of wood?

Paul: Tim Taylor (Home Improvement TV show) would call that "a man's engine stand." Nice job!
 

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Paul...I Laughed my A$$ off....you guys are great at thinking outside the box! That engine stand reminds me of my Radio Flyer wagon I had as a kid...I scabbed on a switch/ instrument panel out of an old school bus. (wanted to be Cpt. Kirk). Hell, you could hang an L10 in that thing..Nice Job!!!
Doug
 

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Hey Boots4 be careful hanging that engine off the aluminum adapter! I know it's easier but remember "safety first" as the aluminum threads are alot softer than cast iron. Might also be a good idea if you could use a jack fastened to the engine stand instead of the block of wood?

Paul: Tim Taylor (Home Improvement TV show) would call that "a man's engine stand." Nice job!
Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't think about the aluminum. I'm thinking that since I wedged the "custom engine support device" under the front before I let the weight of the engine off the hoist when I put it on the stand I'm hoping it will be alright for now. I'm close to test fitting my tranny so I'll check out the adapter for any problems.
 

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Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't think about the aluminum. I'm thinking that since I wedged the "custom engine support device" under the front before I let the weight of the engine off the hoist when I put it on the stand I'm hoping it will be alright for now. I'm close to test fitting my tranny so I'll check out the adapter for any problems.

Just make sure you've got enough thread in contact. 3 x bolt diameter is the most you'll ever need.
 

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Just make sure you've got enough thread in contact. 3 x bolt diameter is the most you'll ever need.
The first three threads will carry up to 80% of the load. It will get to a point where the bolt will break before the threads shear, but I think it will be a lot less than a depth of three diameters.
 

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Paul, very cool engine stand. It needs a dana 70 in the rear ;)
 

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The first three threads will carry up to 80% of the load. It will get to a point where the bolt will break before the threads shear, but I think it will be a lot less than a depth of three diameters.
Based on what assumptions?
Thread fit?
Material strength?
Fastneer strength?
Fastener torque?
Coarse threads or fine?
Mismatching elastic modulus of the bolt and socket?
What level of friction between threads (any lubrication)?
Linear elastic thread behaviour or yielding?

Three threads in 6061 aluminium can be stripped out very easily. Try it if you don't believe me.
Three diameters for reusable aluminium threads is a safe level for the worst case. It holds after bolts have been removed and refit many times.

In contrast one of the designers at my last job had M6 cap screws threading into 4mm of mild steel. Several of them stripped out during assembly of the brand new machine.
 

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That's why I said up to. You are right, there are many factors :)
 

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Paul (in NY)-
Is that the vehicle you are swapping the 4bt into, or did you just lay your hydraulic press down horizontally and mount the engine and wheels to it? ;) :D
I have got to hand it to you, I am impressed! I am always over engineering things, but that has to be one of the best examples of over engineering I have seen in a long time.:beer:
Were you in the Army corp of Engineers too.
 

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Would you feel comfortable with a 4BT on them?
In short yes, I have had several diesels all of which are much heavier than a 4bt on them both and no other mishaps. As far as the bent head stock, I made a new one out of 3/8" wall tube and a 3/4" plate of HRS.
I will admit they are not the best made stands and obviously they have some material quality issues. But for an $80 cheap import what can I expect. My suggestion is to hang the engine on the stand and slacken the hoist chain but leave it attached for a period of time to see if it will sag and take up the slack.
 
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