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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
2,769 Posts
I'm considering a 4bt with T18 Trans and Dana 300 Xfer. This will be going into a CJ7 with stock diffs. Will this work? If not, what's the preferred setup? I definitely don't want to play the "weakest link" game.
Thanks as always.
I've had my Scout 4BT on the road for 5 years, heres what I've broken.
1. The first breakage was the rear diff, gernaded the the spider gears, open diff pulling up oleander stumps with a real short chain. First gear low range , just let it idle. (repaired and added power-locs at both ends)
2. Front drive shaft at the weld, wheeling. (Stock factory shaft)
3. Rear drive shaft u-joint at the diff, powering over some bumps in 2 hi.
4. Front passenger side u-joint, took out stub axle and inner axle.$$
My thoughts, if your useing it mostly for the street, you can get by with D44s. All of the breakage except #2 were with the engine at or near idle.
I won't say I'm easy on the drive train. I started off driving the Scout using the same style I'd used on my 92 Dodge CTD, use the brakes to pre load the Powr-Loc's to get traction to all wheels. This worked great on the Dodge, never broke anything in 10 years of wheeling the beast. There are some minor differences, The Dodge had only 45:1 low the Scout has 90:1, but I do use 2nd low more at 55:1. The Dodge has vacuume boost brakes, Scout hydroboost. Maybe these differences has someing to do with the breakage other than the the size of the parts. probably some, but I'm putting my money on D60's.
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