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Seems like using a set of lift sprung under springs and shackles/brackets/etc from a common platform + a Saginaw out front with normal knuckles and TREs would be fine and clear that whole area out.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Seems like using a set of lift sprung under springs and shackles/brackets/etc from a common platform + a Saginaw out front with normal knuckles and TREs would be fine and clear that whole area out.
What are "spung under springs?" and what is "TREs?" Yes....I think coil overs will be necessary for the high cross over steering
 

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I would like to see a photo of theat radiator support on the power wagons; I think I am going to have to go with coil overs if I want to have crossover steering
I have a pw front crossmember.I'll send you a photo and dimensions. I have a b-model Mack radiator in mine which is tall but close to same width. Used plate mounted vertically to make a u shaped member that was low enough using the mack core support with modifications. I have a bellcrank mounted outboard were the original steering box set. Used a mid 70's w200 Saginaw box and mounting bracket outboard forward of axle with drag link back to bell crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have a pw front crossmember.I'll send you a photo and dimensions. I have a b-model Mack radiator in mine which is tall but close to same width. Used plate mounted vertically to make a u shaped member that was low enough using the mack core support with modifications. I have a bellcrank mounted outboard were the original steering box set. Used a mid 70's w200 Saginaw box and mounting bracket outboard forward of axle with drag link back to bell crank.
Terry....I would enjoy seeing what you have done, I have wrestled with motor mounts & crossmember for far to long now. Now that cross over steering has been ruled out, The steering box is going to be my next challenge. I wish someone made a heavy duty power steering box for trucks from the 30's & 40's
 

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I think I just uploaded crossmember picture. 32 " wide, the engine mounts on high sides, pad in middle core support. If it didn't work I'll try again
 

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Im very late to the party, but I see several easy changes.

First, you need to get rid of the Ross style steering setup and go to a front mount Saginaw like on a Jeep or even a Scout (they are very different). Google is your friend. An aftermarket tilt column would also be your friend. That cab is small and having the ability to tilt the wheel up is nice-and you can go through the dash instead of under it to get the geometry right for the steering box.

Second, you have blocks between the frame and springs-so you are not truly at ride height. You are going to need more height, which means lift springs and/or setting the motor higher in the frame. I'd set that motor within an inch of the hood-which is fairly high as that old 230 gasser was a deep motor too.

Engine angle is not carved in stone. You mentioned 3.5 degrees but you can do more.

I'd look at adding some plates on the inside of that frame and some side mount motor mounts. Its all very do-able.

I'm happy to help. I have pics of a CJ6 I put a big hub 44 under the front of with a Scout II box, power steering, tilt column, etc. And then my current project on here is a 88 Wrangler with a 4BT, Hi Steer on a Dana 44, and yes, I had to do a body lift and spring lift to clear it all and close the hood.
 
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