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Discussion Starter #1
165,000 original miles and counting… It’s time for conversion.
Original Windsor 351 V8 with MSD ignition unit is still holding up pretty good (so far), E4OD however is tired and would need rebuild – soon.

It’s going to be long and expensive process – but I’m sure well worthy at the end. I like to use it as my DD once it’s all done. Right now it hardly gets 9 miles/gal.

Other main reason for conversion is to have reliable long distance off road capable vehicle for Overlanding expeditions.
BKO already has SAS and rear D60 8 lug conversion, 37” tires, AOB, roughly 11” lift and other mods. Once this conversion is done the original parts that remains from stock setup will be just the frame, body and some interior sections.

The conversion plan is: 4BT + NV4500 + NP205

Parts I have so far are:
4BT – inline Bosh P pump from bread truck – previously rebuilt so no original tag on it. Should come with power steering pump and adapter for NV4500. Have not received 4BT at the time of writing it up. It’s somewhere in transit. Supposedly it would “only” need to replace gaskets. Not sure if it would require complete rebuild. We’ll see.
Ford NP205 build to marry to NV4500
2 Custom made engine mounts brackets from Jon Barriclow (he converted his FSB with 4BTA featured on Bronco Driver magazine)
2 Liquid filled engine mounts

Parts I would need to get:
NV4500 - It’s rather difficult to find it locally, without paying hundreds of dollars for it.
Bellhousing
Clutch and pressure plate
Clutch pedals
Clutch cylinder/master
Liquid based intercooler from Frozen Boost
New belt
New oil Filter
4BT rebuild kit (not sure if I can get away with just gasket set)
New Alternator (not sure- but most likely)
New Starter
New water pump
New Rebuild kit for Turbo (potentially new Turbo)
New harmonic balancer from 6BT setup to reduce engine vibration (as described in one of the write ups here)
Sound deadener to reduce noise from engine inside cabin
Engine paint
Gauges to monitor boost PSI, Air Temp after intercooler, Oil PSI (not sure exactly what to monitor besides these values. Would have to do more reading on that)
Twin stick for NP205

Would need to fab new transmission and transfer case support

Plan on using power steering pump and air pump from 6BT setup for existing brake boost from F250 and in dash A/C & heat buttons. Also plan on use original FSB A/C compressor and maintain AOB with secondary belt.

The plan is to have 4BT in top shape with or without rebuild, have NV4500 in top shape (rebuild most likely). NP205 is already rebuilt and have everything assemble incl. clutch and NP205 to make sure it all fits and do dry run on the skid. Then remove W351 and E4OD and transfer case and start fitting 4BT/NV4500/NP205 in.

I have replaced an engine in Ford Explorer 2Dr with manual transmission before. It was direct swap for rebuild one, so this conversion will be far more difficult, longer and expensive.

A guy I met on Overlanding Expo West 2016 advertising diesel swaps somewhere from Montana, said that swapping 4BT into FSB it’s a weekend job. Not sure about that! This for sure will be – biggest and most complex work on any car/truck I’ve done or will do. Hopefully my last too.

Found few write ups here that I follow for advice. However any/all suggestions advice are more than welcome.

Thank you.
Milan
 

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Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you've got a lot planned. There are a few things I would comment on. Since this doesn't seem to be a low budget job, I would have used a different transmission. The NV4500 is OK but has some weaknesses. I would have leaned toward one of the Ford ZF units. Probably the ZF S5-42 or S5-47 from behind the 7.3 diesel. Has much better gear ratios than the NV and is super strong. Might also make mounting easier. One item you'll need to pay attention to is the PS/Vacuum combo. You'll need to change the can on the PS pump as the stock ones won't clear the 4bt P pump. Also, you may have to fab the brace for the vacuum pump as it and the P pump might be trying to use the same mounting holes in the block. You have to have that brace or the vacuum pump is pretty much guaranteed to break. A possible option might have been change the brakes to hydroboost using the unit from the same year F Super Duty and use an electric vacuum pump for the HiVac system like Ford did. Nothing wrong using the vacuum booster, but the hydroboost option would probably be cheaper. This should be quite a rig when you get it done. Looking forward to photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Char1355,
Thank you for your advice. As for tranny… I’m still searching for NV4500. Seems like it’s going to be hard and expensive find (as most of my conversion parts). I settled for NV4500 based on reviews (durability) and recommendations from others – specifically Jon Barriclow from OR – who has ZF5 in his FSB behind 4BT and said if he would do it again – he would go with NV4500. He claimed that ZF5 is too noisy. IDN.
Do you have personal experience with ZF5 vs. NV4500? I obviously know about 5th gear issue on mostly Dodge NV4500, that’s why I’m looking for one from Chevy. It is my understanding that NV4500 from Chevy was better build in that regards. Looks like (based on your comments) I have to do more research on tranny before I buy one.
As for PS/vacuum combo – not sure which way to go at the moment (need to do more research). Hydro boost is and option. Bronco Grave Yard is selling hydro boost unit and some guys here use one from Chevy as well. Would PS/Vacuum combo from 6BT fit in 4BT and have adequate fluid flow and air flow? At least that what I was hoping for. I’ll look into the option you are suggesting – use hydro boost from same year F Super Duty and el. Vacuum pump. Quick look at RockAuto 1995 F Super Duty Hydro Boost reveal MOTORCRAFT BRB37 Power Brake Booster. So that is what you are referring to right? This is from 7.3 Diesel. However the vacuum pump from the same truck/same year (on RockAuto) shows mechanical one and not el. would you happen to know part number for that, or link to where it’s available so I can look it up?
I was also considering to get rid of the vacuum system all together and replace the HiVac control unit with electrical. But have not been able to go that far in my research – yet – to find out what parts I would need for that.
I hope that this will turn out to be “quite a rig” once done.
I’ll post pictures once there’s anything worthy (to take a picture of). For now I just have the NP205 and engine mounts out of all parts needed.
Thank you again for your advice.
Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got some pictures of 4BT. I't rebuild by Cummins. I did lookup some additional info on the Cummins website, based on the engine number, but could not find any. Not sure how many miles it has and not sure if it needs to be rebuild. I guess the only way to find out is to tear into it and see how top of the pistons looks like.
===Is there any other way to tell if full rebuild is necessary?
It has a warning label that a dry rear seal is installed. Bottom part of the engine is covered with oil. It will require replace most of the gaskets at the minimum.
===Any suggestions on where to get good quality gasket set?
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Sorry I haven't gotten back to you but AT&T had an internet crash here and it's been down since Monday a week ago. The guy mentioning the ZF with a lot of noise could have a bad transmission or release bearing. I drive a '90 F250 4x4 7.3 that I bought new and it has 317,000 miles on it. Transmission is quiet as a church mouse. The transmission from the 7.3 that I recommended has some advantage over the small block version most use. It's slave cylinder is on the outside and of course can use a much larger clutch and flywheel. It has better gear ratios. The big drawback is the cost of the adapting parts with will cost in the $1500-2000 range. Needs a custom block adapter, NV4500 flywheel with Ford pilot bearing, Ford clutch set up for that flywheel, and a Ford 6.0 diesel starter. As for the NV4500, I have no personal experience. However, if the GM unit is after 1994, it's internals are identical to the Dodge. The main differences are the GM has a smaller input shaft and different spines on the output. Whatever you decide to use you'll have to use a transfer case that matches the transmission. Just that the Ford ZF would mate to your existing transfer case so no changes in drive shafts. The Motorcraft BRB37 you reference appears to be the correct unit. Word of caution. Those units come without the push rod, spring, and retaining clip used to activate the master cylinder. I've been there and done that. They expect you to reuse those parts off your old unit and you can't buy them from Ford or Bendix who made the unit. I found a company in Michigan who specializes in hydroboost and they made me the little push rod and had the small parts in stock. That company is Tallon Hydraulics. If you get into that situation, I have one of the rods and would gladly measure it for you if I can get to it. They may even have the one they made me on file. Your PS pump has the correct can for the remote reservoir. If you go hydroboost you need 2 return ports. You also need a filter in the return coming from the steering gear. Hydroboost units can be very sensitive to any dirt. Not a bad idea to have the filter anyway. On the alternator, can't really tell. If you can take some measurements I might be able to help. Just happen to have a 22si in the spare bedroom. Didn't normally find that unit on a 4bt. If you look at the back do you see the name Delco anywhere? Also, what output connections does it have? You ask about gaskets and seals. For the most part the aftermarket parts are OK. The one gasket that most go to Cummins for is a head gasket if you need one. How much of a tear down you do is totally your call. You never really know how many miles these thing may have on them. Companies sometimes moved them from one truck to another so mileage doesn't always tell the tale. You have a P pump engine which can be turned into a serious power monster. A few basic mods that generally won't break your bank can make it come alive. On the injection pump, change the governor spring to a 3000 RPM. Some kits come with the 4000 RPM spring as well but 3000 is usually enough for most. Possibly change the torque plate in the pump to a #10. That one is very streetable and yet adds a good bit of power. Next, replace the overflow valve with an updated unit. Eliminates a potential problem that crops up from time to time. Lastly, adjust the pump timing to around 16 deg. Don't exceed that or you may pop a head gasket. 16 deg is generally safe. That takes special tools and you may be able to borrow some from a member. All those changes can be done without removing the pump from the engine. If you can borrow the timing tools you may get out under $200 there. The other item of attention is the turbo. That engine should have an HX30W which is a very good unit. Just need to check it for play and rebuild it if necessary. A kit from Cummins is under $100. Aftermarkets are much cheaper. You'd also want to adjust the waste gate actuator for more boost. You can buy a little boost elbow that allows you to adjust that with a screw driver. Stock engine will probably max out in the 18-20 psi range. 30 psi or a little more is very safe on that turbo. More fuel and more boost = more power. Can also mean more heat and a good intercooler is mandatory.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Char1355 - Thank you so much for all the info. Very valuable indeed. Much appreciated!
Transmission – I fully respect your opinion and experience with ZF5, I’ll most likely go with NV4500.
I located housing bell for $500 and South Bend clutch for another $500. Master and slave clutch would be from Rock Auto for around $100. NV4500 was used behind 6BT, so it should be “easy” to connect.
Transfer case I intend to get rid of existing one and replace it with twin stick NP205 that I already have. It’s Ford, re-build NP205 with input shaft spline count for NV4500 already. Going with ZF5 I would have to change that as well. That would just add more work and money to the project.
Hydroboost from F Super Duty – I’m aware that the spring and the rod is not supplied with the actual part. I have not gotten to the point to resolve where to get these. – Thank you so much for the info on the company in MI. I’ll try to locate Super Duty in junk yard and see if I can get that rod and spring that way. If not I’ll contact that company in MI. I will use filter as you recommended – good call!
I’m not still sure how to connect all that together as I have hydraulic winch that needs to be hooked up as well.
Alternator – I’m still trying to figure out if this is 22SI or something else. It looks very similar to 22SI. It could be 10 or 12SI. Not sure how to find out. I took some more pictures hoping somebody would be able to tell.
Have not gotten to identify what turbo is on. I will rebuild it for sure or get new one if price is OK. I was thinking to plump waste gate on it as some suggested in here. Will have to do more research on that. Also thank you for your suggestion to change governor springs. I was going to put in 3200 as many folks here did. You suggested 3000. What’s the difference, besides 200 RPM less?
Your suggestion to change torque plate and pump timing and all that – well noted. I have to do more research on that as I have no clue what’s involved and how it can be done or perhaps have to go to local diesel shop. Will see.
The engine is covered with oil from ½ way down. It has to leak from somewhere. It’s difficult identify the source of leak, so to be safe I would replace all gaskets and seals upper and lower. It could be overkill but while I’m at it – why not. I’ve seen these gaskets for cheap and expensive as well. So I was wondering about the quality and how long these will last.
Power steering pump – the one that came with the engine – that is not Saginew right? Does this one that is on the engine is as good as Saginew or better? Currently I have Saginew installed and I’m not sure if can re-use it – somehow. I have to do more research on that as well.
Right now I’m gathering knowledge and parts for adding A/C compressor and to make sure I have adequate alternator.
These are the parts for adding A/C I’m looking to buy (should be bolt on):
3930888 Water inlet
3930820 Alt lower mount
3920862 Upper alt mount
3978021 Belt tensioner
3921382 Lower rad hose nipple
080720 Serp belt
This is set up for use with a Delco 22SI alt.
Thank you again for all your suggestions and recommendations. Very much appreciated.
***looks like I'm unable to add more pictures*** so no additional pictures of the alternator.
 

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Glad to help as much as I can. First, did someone change the input on your Ford NP205? Fords come with a 31 spine input and Dodge NV4500 has a 29 spine output. They don't match. Dodge used a NP205 that was passenger's side drop, but the input bearing housing doesn't match the Ford. Someone would have needed to install a custom input in the Ford to make it work. On the pump governor springs, the 3200 rpm spring is for the VE injection pump. The P pump which you have uses either 3000 or 4000 rpm springs. The factory power steering pump on that engine should be a Saginaw. Same pump as found on GM's and even some earlier Fords. Not sure if your winch needs any additional pressure or flow rate. May need to construct your own reservoir to have enough volume. The parts you list for the alternator/ac mount are just part of the puzzle. Do you have the rest of the parts? There are about 30 parts to that setup. The water inlet you list is not normally part of that setup. The Ford inlet is 3921382. The other part numbers you show match up correctly. I happen to have that setup too. Here's a photo of what it looks like installed. The AC compressor used on that unit comes from a Freightliner or Ford truck. It will fit with the stock turbo but you'll need an intake cobra head to make it work. May need a remote oil filter setup or a vertical oil filter to make it happen. Things get real tight on that side of the block. Replacing gaskets and seals on the engine is just normal. Whether you do the bottom end bearings is your call, but they are cheap and it gives some peace of mind knowing all is fresh down there. New rod bolts are needed if you do those.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Char1355 – Thank you again for all your help. Much appreciated.
As for the NP205 – I bought it from guy who had plan to do the very same conversion as I – 4BT into full size Bronco. He rebuild that NP205 and changed the main input shaft to match NV4500. So that should be all good.
Thank you for advice on the governor springs. I did not know that for P pump are 3000 or 4000 only.
As for the AC setup – would you be so kind and list all the parts I need? I gather that parts list from several posts here. It looked like a complete list to me. I guess not. Will my existing AC compressor from Bronco fit that 4BT setup?
I have 4BT/6BT service and parts books. I’m about to buy complete gasket set. Looking at picture of that gasket set online, how will identify what gasket goes where? I’m concern about the large number of O rings, small copper like washers etc…
Very nice looking 4BT you have. Spotless. It’s like a show engine not to put it into the truck.
 

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Thanks, but that engine is not mine. That one belongs to a member in Florida. I saved that photo because it is the best one I've seen with the Ford high mount system. Now for the high mount ac system, I don't believe the stock Ford compressor will fit. Bolt holes don't match up to the Cummins bracket. You'll wind up needing a custom set of hoses too. By the way, where on the engine is your compressor mounted? You also need to be aware that AC mounting bracket uses the 3 bolt holes commonly used for engine mounts on the passenger's side. May have to modify engine mounts once you have the bracket. I will warn you first off that if you go to buy all these parts from Cummins they can get a bit pricey. LOL. Seems like I added it up one time and it was over $500. They can also be found at Freightliner Trucks but I don't know their part #'s. These parts were never actually used on a 4bt but will fit. If you could find a used setup off a 6bt you'd probably be ahead cost wise. That's how I got mine. So here is the parts list not including the AC compressor or the heater hose elbow. As you can see this thing is just grossly overbuilt.

3930822 Main AC mount
131584 Roll pins (2 req) Aligns unit to block.
3008468 1/2" NPT plug
3008469 3/4" NPT plug (may not be needed depending on you coolant plumbing)
3900630 M8x1.25x20 Flange Head bolt (2 req) Attaches Small L brace
3900679 M10x1.5x80 Flange Head bolt (3 req) Attaches Lower Water Inlet
3906697 O Ring (2 req) One between mount and block and other seals lower water inlet.
3910495 M12x1.75x30 Flange Head bolt (3 req) The length of these would change with engine mounts.
3921382 Lower Water Inlet
3920862 Upper Alternator Mounting Arm
3930820 Lower Alternator Mount
3052061 1/2x13x1 Bolt (Attaches alternator to upper arm) Probably only non metric bolt on the engine.
3903105 M12x1.75x150 Flange Head bolt (Attaches alternator to lower mount)
3903210 M12x1.75 Flange Head Nut (For above bolt)
3900621 M8x1.25x25 Flange Head Bolt (2 req) Attaches upper alternator mount arm to head.
3900623 M10x1.5x25 Flange Head Bolt Attaches lower alternator mount to main bracket.
3922606 M10x1.5x45 Flange Head Bolt Attaches lower alternator mount to main bracket.
3924068 Small L Brace
3930838 Tensioner Mounting Plate
3978021 Tensioner
3900631 M8x1.25x25 Flange Head bolt. Attaches tensioner mounting plate to main bracket.
3904446 M10x1.5x70 Flange Head bolt. Attaches tensioner to mounting plate.
3285102 Upper Water Outlet (This one points straight up)
3923331 Water Outlet Seal
3926972 M8x1.25x70 Flange Head bolt (2 req) Upper water outlet to head.
3900632 M8x1.25x35 Flange Head bolt Upper water outlet to head.

As you can see there are a lot of parts. Hopefully I didn't type any incorrect part #'s. I did double check.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Char1355 - Thank you for your response. As always very much appreciated. Looking at your list almost 1/2 of the items are nuts and bolts. I'll do extensive research to find least expensive parts as it is obvious that buying it directly from Cummins is the most expensive option. I did some quick search on eBay for AC and alternator mounts from 6BT but most of them were somehow different from the part numbers you mentioned.
You asked where is compressor mounted - do you mean on 4BT or existing engine in Bronco? On 4BT - there's no compressor (obviously) and in existing 351 Windsor 5.8L is in stock location in upper right towards center front location.
Also - when you clean up your 4BT (before painting it) - did you remove the pump from engine? Is there any potential danger with unbolting it - cleaning it up and bolt back on? Thank you
I'm paid member now - so I can post more pictures. It will be needed.
Also I'm still trying to figure out what alternator came with the engine. Seems like it is 21SI or 22SI, but it's hard to tell. I don't even know what truck this 4BT came from. Pfff.
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Pretty sure that is a Delco unit. One thing to check is the size of the shaft on the unit. Those larger si units have a bigger shaft than the smaller ones. Takes a pulley with a larger hole. The fact that I don't see the name Delco on the back makes me think a possible aftermarket clone. The rear case casting looks like a 22si but it only has one extra terminal at the BAT area where most 22si units have two. The 21si and 22si were used on the 4bt but were far less common. I wouldn't disturb the injection pump unless it's necessary. Not need to remove it unless you plan on replacing the gasket behind the gear housing. The nut on the pump shaft is very tight. I believe the current spec is 160 ft lb. Old spec was 144 ft lb. The shaft on those P pumps is just a taper and there's no key way used. Now if you plan on changing the pump timing for more performance you could go ahead and take it off. You'd have to loosen the gear anyway to do that. If you decide to remove it be aware that puppy is heavy. Looks like a chunk of aluminum but all the internals are steel. A 6bt unit weighs 65 lbs and the 4bt may be near 50 lbs. Finding that Ford AC mount is not an easy task in the used market. They only rarely show up on ebay. Member CrewCab59 is a Cummins dealer and he offers the complete setup including alternator and AC compressor as a kit. It's $1145. Now when you catch your breath again LOL, here's a link to his site. http://www.tennesseedieselpower.com/product/mid-mount-ac-kit/
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
As for the AC kit from CrewCab59 - and his $1,145 kit price, adding cost of all major components found on eBay minus nuts and bolts and the alternator it total to 1,051.79 + shipping on some parts. Alternator is $130. Agrrr, seems like CrewCab59 is not so much apart. What a surprise. I'll keep search for F-800 with 6BT in it and get parts from that.
As for removing P pump - yes I will want (need) to adjust the timing - replace governor spring to squeeze a bit more from 4BT then what stock can offer. So I guess I have to remove it. Do I need to pay attention to gears on the pump to make sure the timing does not get all messed up? I wonder if there's a write up on that somewhere here. I have to do more search on that. Maybe You Tube would have something.
Also according to the tag on the engine this was originally 4BTA - the after (inner)cooler was not part of the deal, so I'm looking for getting one. What's your opinion about http://www.frozenboost.com/ and their liquid setup with el. pump? Here in Vegas summers get pretty hot and air type of inter cooler may not do as much to cool of the air. Their setup allows to place radiator "anywhere". As always - thank you for your advice. Much appreciated!
 

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You really don't have to pay much attention to the pump gear when you take it off. It has no markings to line up at all. There is a cap on the side of the pump that contains a small tool that locks the pump in proper position. You just have to be certain the engine is in TDC position before you install it. Here's an excellent video showing the install of a P7100 on a 6bt. The 4bt install would be exactly the same. Your's just has 2 less cylinders. This whole series of videos would be great for you to watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fRcs_RBfWg On intercoolers there has been quite a bit of discussion. The water/air type are somewhat popular where restricted space is a problem. That really isn't an issue with your vehicle. Air to air are by far more common and of course ambient air temp will limit how cold the charge can be no matter which type you use. One intercooler that has been popular on the Fords was the ones used on the 7.3 and 6.0. The 7.3 units came in two versions. One had plastic end tanks and the other was all aluminum. Avoid the plastic tank model on that one. The 6.0 versions all had plastic tanks and those seem to be OK. I like the all aluminum 7.3 type the best. It will require you to make a new hood latch support brace but that's about it. I have one of those and the inlet tubes are 3-1/4". If you don't have the Ford factory boots which were 3" to 3-1/4", there are plenty of aftermarket ones available. The 6.0 unit is a good bit taller but doesn't interfere with anything by hanging down lower. Just out of curiosity, which style bumper does your Bronco have. The diesel truck bumpers had 3 air vents in them to help with the cooling. If yours had the plain bumper, might be worthwhile finding the diesel bumper. It actually looks very nice too. Here's a few photos of the IC and truck with the diesel bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
char1355 - I cannot thank you enough. You've been a great source of info for me. I'll watch the videos before I get on it. As for the intercooler from Ford 7.3 - I'll check if I can get that from RockAuto or other sites. Local junk yards don't offer much. As for my front bumper - it's home made custom version - see details in inserted picture. You mentioned new hood latch support brace - there's not stock hood anymore - I got fiberglass one that came with simple braces that can be seen on 2nd picture.
Not sure what you mean by "if you don't have the Ford factory boots" What boots are you talking about? Thank you again for all the info. Very much appreciated. Milan
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The boots I was talking about are the hoses that connect the intercooler to the pipes. The factory Ford units are a bit pricey. Usually in the $60-70 range each. Aftermarket parts are much cheaper. Most guys set up using 3" plumbing on that intercooler. Will require a 2-1/2" to 3" boot at the turbo and 3" to 3-1/4" at the intercooler. If you should happen to use the 6.0 intercooler it's a bit odd. One side of its plumbing is 3-1/4" and the other is 3". Of course you'll need matching clamps. The spring loaded constant tension clamps are the best. Here's a listing for a brand new aftermarket all aluminum for $270 or best offer. That pretty darn cheap. There are some that are near $1000. http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-03-ford-7-3-powerstroke-CSF-6017-OEM-REPLACEMENT-INTERCOOLER-/302363397795?hash=item4666434ea3:g:eUwAAOSwbtVZUc4y&vxp=mtr I see in you photos you have a secondary compressor for air. There were Cummins brackets for that style compressor but I suspect you could build your own much cheaper. Just have to work around that monster of an injection pump. Might even place it on the driver's side beside #1 valve cover. Our Fords have more hood clearance than GM's. You just have to measure. The auxiliary pulley for the 4bt fan hub to drive that unit is fairly common. I may even have a spare one of those. I see where the AC compressor is. Do your hoses exit off the back or the side of the compressor? I'm building an AC mount for that style unit but the hoses can't come off the back. They'd run into the injection lines. One issue you may run into with the Ford intercooler is your radiator width. Ford used several different radiators and some are too wide. The stock diesel radiator is about 31" if memory serves me right . One thing you don't need with a 4bt is a big radiator. That engine runs very cold. Guys who live in very hot areas and run electric fans seldom if ever have them come on to cool the engine. Of course with AC the fan does come on. These engine use their heat to make power instead of wasted heat you have to get rid of. In cooler areas it's often difficult to get heat in the cab with a big radiator. Here's a photo of one of the Ford IC boots, the good clamp, and the auxiliary pulley. Glad to help as much as I can. I know Fords pretty well since I've been driving them a long time. Did my driver's training in a 47 Ford sedan and a 51 Ford pickup. The car was my grandfather's and the truck was my dad's. Dad set me up a track around a 10 acre field and I learned to drive. I'd been driving farm tractors long before that so a clutch was old hat to me. I was a pretty good driver before I took driver's ed in school.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
char1355 - Thank you for your response and the eBay link. Is that radiator for air to air aftercooler? Seems like it is. I'll certainly take a look at it, eve though my original plan was to go with water to air cooler. Secondary air compressor is for lockers and air on board system. It's old York compressor. That has to go back on and as you correctly said I will have to fab brackets for it. The only place for it I can see is - just like you said by #1 valve cover. I plan to go with el. dual fan from Ford Taurus, keep existing radiator - that is all aluminium. I'll plump Access Hole on timing cover by a original Access Hole Cover & Seal, 3903463 to gain more space. There's another oil filler inlet on the top of #1 valve cover. I plan to re-use auxiliary pulley for that air compressor (from existing setup) and attach it to original fan pulley (after I remove the fan, of course). I'll do KDP if it is not done yet, just as soon as I open up the cover. You are correct - existing A/C compressor has outlets at the back.
Over the weekend 4BT got chemical shower. It looks much better (cleaner) now. I also started to unbolt some "easy" parts and have some bolts loose - like exhaust manifold, turbo etc. :
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I noticed that after cleaning it up - the engine looks nice - most of the bolts were easy to remove of brake loose. Make me wonder how much this engine was used after initial re-manufacturing. After the 4BT was cleaned I discovered "forgotten" 1 exhaust gasket behind the manifold.
Also I was able to find NV4500 4x4 from 1994 Chevy which was supposed to be rebuild before as well. Previous owner said that it is slipping between 2-3 gear (supposedly), so I'll rebuild it again before I put it. The rebuild kit directly from Advance Adapters is less then $300 + I'll buy service manual, since I've never done it before:
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Here's picture of the NP205 that I got earlier this year:
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Complete set of all gaskets for 4BT arrived, oil pan and oil filter cover paper gaskets were torn apart. Noticed that main rear and front seals do not have that silicone insert helper ring aiding easy installation. Hopefully it will be all OK when it gets to replace those. Now when the engine is clean I see all the gaskets and they seems like freshly installed - sealed very well, but then where the major oil leak is from since the bottom of the engine was covered. I keep the detailed parts list for this conversion (4BT & NV4500 & NP205) and at the end I'll post it. Of course I keep track of cost of all parts, but I don't see much value in posting that.
I'm not sure I should post all the step of my process? It has been covered many times already and mine is not really unique in any way.
Would you recommend to change injectors on P-pump to some better one? Would that increase power/torque? I for sure will change springs to 3000 RPM.
It is interesting to see how early childhood experience - in your case driving Ford trucks carry on throughout entire life. I bet knowing how to drive clutch was huge help for you when you got to do driving test at school.
Thank you for your help - again. Milan
 

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You might want to do some checking. If your NV4500 is a 1994 GM, then is specific for a GM. You can only use a GM bellhousing with it and will require a GM adapter, clutch, and flywheel to fit it to the Cummins. Translation, very expensive. That flywheel is on the rare side since very few GM vans were manual. 1995 and later was the same transmission as the Dodge Cummins as far as bolt patterns go. Also, have you checked the output. Don't believe a GM 32 spline output will mate to a Ford 31 spline input, unless you have some sort of an adapter. A Dodge NV4500 has problems too since its output is 29 spline. You plan to reuse the pulley from the current engine. To bolt to the Cummins hub it will need a 1.00" pilot hole in the center and 4 bolt pattern in a 50 mm circle. I know that one by heart since I built a custom reverse rotation fan hub assembly. See photo below. Have you measured the overall width of your radiator? If it's over 31" the Ford intercooler won't fit. You mentioned the injectors on the engine. The stock injectors with the P pump are 5 x .010. They are good for at least 250 HP. I'd pull them and have them tested for pop pressure and spray pattern. That service is usually very cheap. If they are good that's one problem out of the way. Lots of guys dump big bucks in aftermarket injectors and that is generally money wasted. If you were shooting for the 250-300 HP range then you'd want to change to a 5 x .012 which is very common. You'd also be talking twin turbos because the single will run out of air. Actually twins are great for most power levels and puts less stress on the turbos. Just a little more expensive to construct. Most of your power increases will come from adjustment to the injection pump such as timing and torque plate and adjustment to boost level at the turbo. 22 lbs boost and the right amount of fuel should yield 200 HP. Common oil leak areas are the valve tappet cover, valve covers, front crank seal, and rear crank seal. If you check the KDP you'll automatically have to install a new front crank seal. On the front cover most use RTV instead of the gasket to seal it. While you're in there, remove the bolts behind that cover, clean the holes, reinstall the bolts with blue Loctite, and torque to the proper setting. On the back end, sometimes the rear crank seal get installed backwards. More often there is a score mark in the seal aluminum housing that is the problem. Usually caused by someone being careless when removing an old seal. The use of the clutch didn't help much in driver's ed since everything was automatics. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you for your advice. There's a guy in SLC UT who was going to do the exact same conversion as I'm doing. 4BT, NV4500 and NP205 into FSB. He claimed that for personal reasons he could not finish the conversion so he end up selling everything. I bought his NP205. He confirmed that TC will bolt on NV4500 from 94 Chevy - same he had. As for bell housing he sent me a link where to buy brand new to match. I have not buy it yet, just trust him saying it will fit. Based on your suggestions I have to more measuring and research before I buy it. It is my understanding that flywheel from Dodge 5.9L will fit along with the clutch. If that tranny turn out to be not a good fit I'll use it as core and get one from Dodge, even though Dodge NV4500 has that 5th gear problem as GM NV4500 did not have that.
As for fuel injectors, I'll take a look at 5 x .012 and also see what's involved with fuel plate modifications. - thank you advice. My goal is to get HP and torque that is at least same as it is now with 351W 5.8L.
As for twin turbo - maybe later right now with all the expenses I'll settle on Holset 35W. 4BT came with 30W. So I was thinking to get used 35W and get rebuild kit, it's less expensive then buying new one.
Looking at the picture - it looks great. Do you make those? Do you have something for sell that I can use? I watched all parts of the video where the guy is rebuilding 6BT in his garage. There's a lot involved with that. I'm a bit concern that once I put 4BT back together would I be able to test fire it up on the engine stand? Once I start removing the old engine and when I put 4BT in and hook up everything and there will be something wrong with the set up - I would not have a way to bring it to the shop to get it fixed. Doing all these things to the engine all at once... without much of prior diesel engine experience - I'm just asking for trouble. I have to re-thing the strategy. If I can at least test fire up the engine on stand... Milan
 
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