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Here's a decent video on how to correctly torque down that pump. In loosening the nut, you probably don't need anything locked. Once the nut is off you can do the lock down. Getting the gear loose is usually the tough part. Takes a very good puller. I've seen guys remove the crank pulley and put a bar between the bolt to keep it from turning. There is also a tool that can be inserted in the flywheel housing that uses a 1/2" drive socket wrench to engage the flywheel gear. Almost a 2 man operation unless you have a long extension. Traditional method of timing that pump is with a gauge mounted in the #1 output port. I guess your method will work too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fRcs_RBfWg
 

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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
P-pump timing to 16 degree is now done. I ended up using 1/2" copper pipe and flatten it at the end and wedge it between the gears to prevent engine turn while loosing the nut. Worked very well. Since copper is soft material there's no danger of causing any damage. I also used that same technique when tie down that same nut. Removing the gear with steering wheel puller was rather easy. It came off with no big effort. The torque for the P-Pump nut is 165 lb not 145 lb (that is for VE pump). It was a surprise to me that there's no detail step by step process from A-Z for P pump with the engine on the stand. Some instructional videos starts with pump already removed or with engine in the truck.
I also fabricated bracket for 6BT vacuum/power steering pump:
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Now I'm in process to fab engine stand so I can attach flywheel adapter so I can run the engine without having it install in the truck. Of course I'll have the cooling radiator attached with a cooling fan... prime the engine and run it for awhile to see if there are any issues - (if the 16 degree timing is correct, any leaking, heavy smoke etc). Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
While I'm finishing off on the makeshift engine stand so I can attach flywheel adapter, flywheel and starter the brand new turbo still needs to be attach to booster pipe, exhaust and air filter. There are Cummins original parts for these, but I was wondering if it is a good idea to use flanges instead?
All these are 2.5 inch ID right?
Aluminium flange for booster pipe and air filter intake like this:http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?products_id=261
and metal one like this one: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?products_id=324 for exhaust and weld on the exhaust pipe. Thank you. Milan
 

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Well, most of those parts will be flanges. The exhaust plate on the back of the turbo will be a full Marmon or half Marmon flange. The turbo outlet elbow should be a flange at the compressor housing. It's a beaded slip fitting at the outlet. The intake doesn't need a flange since that is suction instead of pressure. Did the new turbo come with the back plate? If not I can get you the part # for that. Also, have the outlet elbow and clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Char1335 - Thank you once again for your your wisdom and offer of outlet elbow and clamp.
The turbo came complete incl. back plate.
I end up buying 2.5" flange for exhaust and 2" flange for compressor outlet from Silicone Intakes. The intake does not need any flange (of course) so I just got silicone 90 degree 3-3.5" elbow from eBay. 4BT came with that "Hump Hose", so I can re-use it if that 2" flange will not work out. I already have cone shape K&N air filter in my BKO that has intake ID 3.5" so that's why I picked 3-3.5" elbow and will run 3.5" intake pipe. Exhaust flange is 2.5" and my existing exhaust pipe is 3" all the way, so I'll just use some adapter later on. Milan
 

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To my knowledge, Cummins only offered 1 outlet elbow for the standard HX30W. It's a 90 deg with part # 3918686. Requires clamp # 3915951 and a #138 silicon sealing O ring. Don't know the Cummins part # for the O ring but if you get in a situation of needing one drop me a PM. Got a bag of those little devils. Anything else has to be custom made. The clamp would stay the same and that one is not all that common.
 

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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
OK char1355 - I'll let you know. Thank you for the offer.
This past weekend I did some aluminum welding. 1994 GM NV4500 bellhousing lacks holes at the bottom half to fasten it to adapter. Also 1 hole towards the top is directly on the top of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the engine and the top tip of the belhousing has no hole for the stud. So I bought 1x1.5" aluminum bars, pull out spool gun and welded on bellhousing and adapter these bars to add more attachment points. I had to bend these bars to create the curve. This is the price for having early GM NV4500 and not Dodge, that has this part done much better.
Welding aluminium is not my strong point, so the weld would not win any beauty contest, but it looks like it will hold up and prevent disaster of having bellhousing separated from adapter at later stage as it happen before to somebody else (I've heard). All I need to do now is the drill holes and tap them with 7/16". Also the bellhouisng had a long crack along the bottom of one of the 4 studs that attach it to the tranny, so I had to weld that too. I burned through it on that spot, but was able to patch it up. LOL. 2nd picture shows that patch on bellhousing.
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Something I was trying to figure out. I know you have the GM NV4500. Are you using the GM bellhousing and 4bt GM adapter? Didn't quite understand the need for extra bolt holes. I thought the GM was a direct bolt up to the 4bt GM adapter plate. If you were using the Dodge adapter plate you'd change the transmission bellhousing to a Dodge and change the input shaft.
 

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Something I was trying to figure out. I know you have the GM NV4500. Are you using the GM bellhousing and 4bt GM adapter? Didn't quite understand the need for extra bolt holes. I thought the GM was a direct bolt up to the 4bt GM adapter plate. If you were using the Dodge adapter plate you'd change the transmission bellhousing to a Dodge and change the input shaft.
With the use of front motor mounts and the Chevy adapter/bellhousing that lack the bottom bolts, the assembly has been known to split at the plate-bellhousing junction. This results in the clutch disc binding in between the flywheel and pressure plate. Otherwise, it is a direct bolt up

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That's interesting. I'd never heard that before. Of course almost all the GM's came with a TH475 instead of a manual. I would have assumed the the GM adapter plate had all the bolt holes for a stock SB Chevy bellhousing. There was also more than one Chevy adapter plate. The commons one has the engine tilted. There was also a non tilted version which is not very common.
 

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Yeah, I thought I'd read about that on here but maybe it was the bakery teamster mechanic that I bought my engines from.
I have not seen a non tilted GM plate in person or anywhere other than by order from custom shop for big $$$$. I wasn't aware they were a factory option.

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Engine tilt? The configuration I have does tilt the NV4500 rather then engine. It is well documented here and on other chat rooms as well. Some guys tried to re-drill the NV4500 to void that tilt. I think it tilts toward driver side about 10 degrees. Is that right? Now the question is - is there any potential issue with the NV4500 tilt? Performance? Obstructions? Longevity for which guys are making the effort to void the tilt? The NP205 from Ford Bronco 78-79 that goes behind the my NV4500 has that ring with multiple mounting holes that can adjust the NP205 to compensate for the tilt. Thank you. Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Also - does anybody knows what transmission mount will bolt on the Chevy GMC NV4500 4x4 Cast Iron Extension Housing 5 Speed 12546147? I searched all the transmission related stickies and also Googled other sites, but could not find anything. There's one old tread in here comparing multiple mounts, but it does not say for what type of the extension housing (the cast aluminium stock or cast iron one, Dodge/Chevy). Picture is for illustration. Thank you. Milan
Extended cast iron housing.jpg
 

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Don't believe the tilt will be an issue with the transmission. I've read there is a recommendation to overfill that transmission. In the original application it was the engine that was tilted, not the transmission. That was done to clear an obstruction on the P30 van. That non tilted factory adapter is probably pretty rare. Seems like I remember the one big difference is it has 8 bolts to the block instead of the 7 for the tilted. On the transmission mount I'm a bit out of my league there. I checked the O'reilly catalog and they only show one style of transmission mount. There is a standard and a HD unit. Might need to do some measuring and drop by one of the local auto parts stores. Do you know what year and model truck the transmission came in?
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Hi Char1355, as for tilt I'm glad you confirmed that there should be no issues with leaving it as is = tilted. It will be a bit challenging to fabricate new support for it. Also I plan to use Transmission Aluminum PTO Fast Coolers that will add more fluid and cooling capability. As for the transmission mounts, it's "interesting" to see that nobody lists the mounts or part number that will bolt into the cast iron housing. These cast iron extensions are being offered on eBay and other online parts supply stores on regular bases and of course the stock mounts do not fit. I'll call Anchor Industries if they can point me to right part number. Hopefully they make it. To answer your question... NV4500 came out of 1994/95 Chevy. It came with the cast aluminium stock housing. Cast iron housing came as add-on with the transfer case I bought (eBay). Milan
 

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Isn't there normally a plate that's bolted to the transmission and slips over the threaded studs of the transmission mount that is, in turn, bolted to a crossmember? With the transmission being tilted, this plate can make up the misalignment angle between the transmission and the mount.

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Discussion Starter #97
That is exactly how it will be done! Just like you wrote. Wondering if there's somebody here who has done it before and has pictures, but no big deal if not. BTW talking to Anchor Industry tech rep was waste of time. No help there. Milan
 

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Idk if this pic helps or not but this is how it worked out on my jeep. For your situation, a plate with holes over the studs of the mount welded to a piece of angle bolted to the tranny housing may be more appropriate.


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Discussion Starter #99
Yes something like that. That mount seems different from the one that I got with the NV4500. Yours has 4 bolts. Is that stock mount? Do you know part number or what truck year make and model this is from? If not no biggie, I'll just use Chevy stock. Thank you for the picture. Milan
 

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Yes something like that. That mount seems different from the one that I got with the NV4500. Yours has 4 bolts. Is that stock mount? Do you know part number or what truck year make and model this is from? If not no biggie, I'll just use Chevy stock. Thank you for the picture. Milan
It's the A2882 mount but it's for a jeep TJ and the mounting holes for the crossmember may be different than yours. Also it's set up with bolt holes on the top instead of studs. I corrected this by tapping the corresponding holes in my plate, running bolts through those holes and tack welding them in place to make studs for nudes to thread onto. You may have an easier time by going with the HD mount offered for your application and fabricating a plate to fit. The plate I used was a flat piece of 5/16 mild steel but you could probably use 1/8" with some gussets/ribs.

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