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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Well, more and more I think about it it’s obvious that the engine block needs to be resurfaced. It’s the best option. Even with new OEM head gasket it may be OK for a while, but that surface imperfection will cause problems later on. IDN.
Local very good shop charges $250 for resurface it, which not that bad. The only other thing is to know what thickness of the new head gasket will be needed after. The part that I’m concern about the most is to strip everything to bare block – everything! That’s a lot of extra work and most importantly I’ve never done it before. Pistons, bearings, camshaft all that… Taking all apart and mark all parts and bolts so I would know where a how exactly there were in engine – should not be that hard I suppose, but putting everything back even with all the markings on it - to have correct timing setup it’s something that I’m very concern about. This could be too much for my skills level. Having this part done by a shop would cost extra hundreds of dollars. Also there are other questions – could or should I re-use all the pistons and bearings and all that, or just get new one while at it? How would I know if it is OK to put it back together with old parts? I know you cannot comment on my skills level, but what’s the best approach at this point? Thank you Milan
 

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A few thoughts. If you tear it down, new bearings are not an expensive item. I'd replace them. You will need new rod bolts. Not supposed to reuse those. Need to check the block to be sure it hasn't been decked previously. They usually stamp an X or XX indicating how much was cut. I believe there are only 2 basic thickness of head gaskets. Which one you use depends on how much pistons protrude above the deck. New head bolts may be required if you don't have studs. If the block doesn't need boring you don't have to replace the pistons as long as they're in good shape. Taking care to bag and label small parts is an excellent way to be sure where it all belongs. These engines are not very complex.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
As for the head studs vs. bolts - I’m not familiar with head studs. Can you please add more details? What’s the benefit of it compare to stock bolts? All I was able to find out is this part number ARP 247-4205 on one of the older write ups here. Is that the correct? These are close to $400 per set.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-247-4206?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-arp&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7Z3VBRC-ARIsAEQifZRNCko-FIozsYWy7H5MVEwIce_ial8WNvOFER-ZyGKFYma6m4zubYEaAh_vEALw_wcB

That's pretty steep. If the price is correct there must be pretty good reason to go that route as stock new head bolts are around $80. Is there any detail write up on it? As previously mentioned – “You'll need to have a small amount machined off the rocker pedestals where the nuts sit but that's not major and clean up the bolt holes with a bottoming tap” If I had this done by local machine shop I would need to be able to explain to them exactly what I want them to do. Not sure how much Eggman would charge for all that and how much would be the shipping. Thank you. Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Not having straightedge or knowing of anyone who has it (to borrow it) I bought one to measure both the head and the block if it is within the flatness tolerance. Cummins manual says NOT to exceed k Cylinder head flatness end to end .012 inch. Cylinder head flatness side to side: .003 and Block flatness end to end: .003 and block fatness side to side: .003. After measuring it back and forth and forth and back several times (to make 100% sure) I found that both head and block are well within the tolerance. I also contacted the seller of that engine and he confirmed that when he run it last time it did not have any coolant leak. So based on all that the conclusion is that it must have been crappy aftermarket head gasket causing the coolant leak. New original Cummins head gasket is in order. I also won’t put that copper spray on it anymore. Not sure if that added to the leaking issue or not, but I just won’t do it again. I also measured the caps screw using the caliper for short and medium length screws and laser measuring tool for the long one. They all are well within the max allowed length. Since I’m still not clear on the advantage of replacing these with studs (incl. what part number and of the cost of set) I’ll put back original screws. Perhaps I can swap them later on, one by one as it had been done before.
On the side note –with expected sale of all original (not needed) parts that were removed from 4BT and expected sale of 5.8L Windsor, E4OD, transfer case and all other related parts (MSD, Winter shifter.. etc) the entire build is already far exceeding the projected budget. Also I made few mistakes and bought parts that were not needed at all like bell housing, used A/C compressor. The most painful mistake is the Fluidamper that I bought by mistake (6BT of different year) and while putting it back to the original box it slipped off and from less than a one feet off the ground hit the metal bar on the floor damaging one of the tooth making it very hard to resale it even with deep discounted price. These are my mistakes that makes this project more expensive than it should be. It is amazing (to me) to read some of the other swaps in here where they just remove the 4BT from donor and without doing anything to it (maybe besides painting it) they install it to the their truck under relatively small budget. Milan
 

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As for head studs vs stock bolts, I understand you need the stronger studs if you are planning on major boost. Not sure where the cutoff is, but I'm guessing 35 lbs or more will require the studs. If you are not planning on that, you can probably skip them. If you arnt sure how extreme your going to build it or mod it down the road, I think I would install them now.

But I'm no expert. Hopefully, someone on here with more experince chimes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
There are few very good You Tube videos on the advantage of head studs over bolts. So I educated myself and went ahead and bought a set. According to ARP website the set for 4BT is “Head Stud Kit Dodge Cummins 4BT diesel, ARP2000, black oxide Kit #: 247-4206” CPP Diesel is having St. Patrick sale with free shipping and it came to $268.20. Considering that not bad deal as originally they go for $470 and can be had for over $300 on regular sites like Autoplicity. Summit is selling those for $380. Enough about the price now. With these on order, reading the torque ARP installation instruction M12 studs are torque to 125ft/lbs in 3 equal steps, so divide 125 by 3 is 41.6. So 1st sequence will tie all nuts to 41 ft/lbs, then next sequence to 83ft/lbs and the last sequence final torque is 125ft/lbs. Is that right? Of course I now need to find a place where can they shave 0.200in off each rocker pedestal. Wonder who can do that in town. Milan
 

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Contact member Eggman. He's not too far from you and has done the rocker stands. You also may need a flat bottom tap to clean up the holes in your block. The studs should come with a special lube they recommends on those. Not sure about the recommended torque sequence. Eggman may be of help there too since I believe he runs them. At the price you got the studs for, no one should consider going stock bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
It's been over a year since last update. The conversion is almost done now. Just final touches on interior is what's left. There's still oil leak coming from above power steering pump. Not sure if it is the flexible oil pressure hose leading to vacuum pump? Will have to investigate more. It's hard to reach place. Another issue is the idling. After reading few posts here, it may have something to do with fuel delivery. Now with 0.35 fuel valves it is not as bad, but still. The issue is that engine won't start without tapping on gas pedal. There's now manual throttle lever on shift stick to maintain stable RPM. Without it the engine would die. Also when driving on HWY in traffic and shifted into neutral and braking to slow down engine died. Once the engine run and it's worm it maintain RPM just fine, but once the RPM gets below 1K it's difficult to keep it running. The water/fuel separator is brand new. Total mileage on the swap is not even 50. not sure if the P pump needs to be look at? If anybody reads this and have any suggestion - please let me know. Thank you. Milan
 

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Hi Milan. It's Mark from DieselTuff. We've corresponded extensively in past. Glad the 035 DV's helped things a bit.
At this point, I would re-measure your governor spring heights. Measure both sides of gov ( top of stud to slot of retainer nut )....make sure both sides are withing .009" of each other. If one side is further ( more than .009" than other ) turn that one out 1 click. Each click = .017". If both are good on measurements, I then suggest you turn both retainer nuts out ( counter clockwise ) 1 click, as what your describing in above post sounds like you have the gov springs too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Hi Mark, Of course I know who you are. You helped me a lot. Your lift pump works great - getting consistently above 20PSI on the gauge and DV's helped as well (The extra seals you added was great also). I did not adjust the smoke screw yet. Not sure it's even needed. Thank you for your response and suggestion. Anyway, the truth is that when I replaced springs the whole process was kind of not exactly clear to me so the nut is most likely too tight. I'll follow your suggestion. hopefully it will resolve it. Thank you again. you are awesome! Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I'm going to loose the retainer nuts and put them back on 1 soft + 4 hard clicks setup to make sure it's done right. I may messed up this setting when putting in 3K GSK.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Hi Mark, That is excellent write up you have there. I got on it this past weekend and re-done the GSK adjustment. The hardest part was to consistently hold the caliper perpendicular to the top of the nut. The smallest move of the caliper to any direction resulted in significant variations of reading. It would be nice to see a video how to measure is accurately. This adjustment it is rather easier when engine is out on the stand. I ended up loosing the retainer nut by one step on both sides and it ended up screwing up engine idle so bad, that it did not event start. So I re-did it again. Going by the clicks - same on both sides the measurements were out of whack. 0.80 on one side and 0.65 on the other. So I end up just measure it regardless of number of clicks. I did best I could to measure it as accurate as possible. Engine now runs fine on idle, but I did not drive it yet to see if the previous issue is still there. The measurements are now 0.51. Thank you for your help. Milan
 

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Hi Milan, yes, measuring needs to done carefully. I rest my wrist/back of hand on pump & note position & angle of calliper so I can repeat on other side of gov after rotating engine over 180 degs. The important thing is to be the same on both sides of the gov & as close to 50thou as possible without going below the 50thou. Sounds like you have it where it needs to be now. Test drive when you can & get back to us.
 
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