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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting my frame ready for paint ( Gloss Black) does anybody have any recommendations for self etching primer & paint ? I want to keep the cost down within reason . Thanx, Charlie
 

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High quality at low cost is not a combination that goes together.
If you are using gloss black on the frame I am assuming this is going to be somewhat of a show piece.
Satin black is much easier to get a duarable finish at a reasonable price. For a durable satin finish I use SEM Rust Guard. This is used on bare metal that has had the rust at least wire brushed off. I prefer to make it totaly rust free. It is used right from the can. What isn't used can be put back into the can. It's thick. I like to use it with out reducer but it can be reduced up to 10%. This is a match to the factory chassis black, just like the old muscle car undercarrage. I would not use this for a top coat for the body. I don't konw how much UV inhibitor is in this product. For an economical satin black top coat for the body use John Deere Blitz Black enamel with hardner. Buy this at the local John Deere dealer. It's available in quarts and gallons. The small can of hardner costs as much as a gallon of black. Again I prefer to spray the John Deere paint without the reducer. If you add reducer do it slowly. It can make the paint grainy. If it looks like dirt in the finished spray it is separation in the paint from the reducer. Dump the mix and start over or you will have a gritty finish. Try it without the recuder first. The JD paint will work on top of the SEM if the right procedure is used. So the SEM could be the primer the JD the top coat. I have done this when the paint is still uncured (1-2 hr drying between). That eliminates sanding. I don't think the SEM will sand well. The JD paint works great on top of normal primers following standard painting procedures. ( HINT: Try some Evercoat Euro Fill primer, I love this stuff )
If you want to go gloss black it is more work and money. I prefer the PPG self etching epoxy for quality work. If I'm tryig to save some bucks and am willing to accept a slightly lower quality I use the Omni epoxy primer. In fact I am picking up some tonight. For frame work I normally use single stage urethane paint. If you wanted the high quality primer you probably want the high quality paint also. If you go with the less expensive primer go with the less expensive top coat also. I've used PPG, Dupont, and some of the others. They all are a bit different in mixing and application. Once you get used to one stick with it. You will have the catalist and reducer on hand then. The same holds true for the less expensive paints. I use Omni because it's convenient. I'm sure other brands will work too. If you want to go with less expense use the acrillic enamels. Use the hardner which is an option for enamel. If you are going this route I would go with the Omni priced paint. I bought a quart this week for $24. Color changes pricing. You will have to buy hardner for any of these paints or primers. Black covers great so you shouldn't have a problem with coverage. If you have a coverage problem try to reduce or eliminate the thinner from the mix. You use more but it covers so much better. Black always matches, but if you are spaying a color write down what you did to the final mix or you will not be able to match it later. Letting reducer out will change coverage enough to change the final color.
 

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I blast my frames and runnng gear with Black Beauty till they are 'as' new steel. Then I wipe them down with Pickle X 20 (www.picklex20.com ). Then I shoot PPG, MP-170 Epoxy Primer and top coat with PPG, MOA Chassis Black. The finish is a rich satin black.

I have never had a problem with chips or peeling. The prep, getting it to bright and shiney steel, 'as new' in my opinion is the key to a good long lasting paint job.

Paul
 

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The prep, getting it to bright and shiney steel, 'as new' in my opinion is the key to a good long lasting paint job.

Paul
I agree with that 100%.
If using the epoxy primeres be sure to follow their recoat timing. You don't sand this. It must be topcoated within specified time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Beck, I like the idea of the satin finish ! Where do I get the SEM primer ? When you say it comes in a can do you mean a quart can ? I've also heard another board member using the JD paint, if the price is reasonable thats probably what I'll go with. I just thought that a black frame against my 4bt freshly painted Cummins beige would look pretty nice . Thanx.
 

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Beck, I like the idea of the satin finish ! Where do I get the SEM primer ? When you say it comes in a can do you mean a quart can ? I've also heard another board member using the JD paint, if the price is reasonable thats probably what I'll go with. I just thought that a black frame against my 4bt freshly painted Cummins beige would look pretty nice . Thanx.
There are 2 big automotive paint stores in my area. Both handle the SEM line. I had the name wrong before it it "Rust-Shield". The quart can is part #38104 It is also available in gallons. If doing the frame buy the gallon. Call around, you should find it locally. If you are using this on the frame there is no need for covering it with the JD paint. Take your time spraying the nooks and crannies. You will get some runs trying to get into all the tight spots. The SEM is what I have on my frame. It is designed to be a one step process. I have done the body of my truck with the epoxy primer, filler primer, JD enamel procedure. I am happy with both so far. A local hot rod shop uses the SEM on muscle car chassis for restorations.
I painted my 4bt and transmission last night. I used epoxy primer covered with enamel with hardner. Shame on me but I didn't use the Cummins beige. My motor is a light yellow. I saw a satin black Model A with this color spoke wheels and liked it. My wheels will be painted the same color as the motor. I was going to use bright red with wide whitewalls but tire prices at over $200 each scared me away from that. With the light yellow blackwalls look good.
 

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I"ve used OSPHO with great results for an etcher/primer. You can paint right over it. Good on rusty metal & new metal.
 
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